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Everything posted by 240dkw

  1. It is a off the shelf grommet, says it is vinyl on the package so we will see what looks like in 500 miles
  2. Well, the problem has come back, and this time I took a deep breath and started trouble shooting before tearing into anything. Much the same symptoms as before, running really rough and smoking. The more it ran the worst it got. To the point it was backfiring and would not stay running. I finally tracked it down to a bad capacitor(brand new) on the points. Once it was replaced to ran like a top for about two days and started again, once again it was another bad capacitor. I do believe my old style electronic external voltage regulator has failed causing the caps to burn up. I replaced the VR with a old mechanical style one and another cap. Seems to be running great again, but I have been here a couple of times already. Is there any thing else I am missing that would fry the cap?
  3. Crazy, I look at the photo that I posted from ZParts and see different sizes. I would have never guessed that they are the same size.
  4. So after seeing what happened to my cam oiler tube, and talking to another Z owner who had the same problem with major results. The front tube fell out and got caught in the timing chain. Trashed the bottom gear and of course bent a bunch of valves. So I decided to try to come up with a way to stop the tubes from fall down into the lower engine if they failed and am trying this to see it helps.
  5. Well, I have been running Lucas oil in my car since I first started it up, mainly because of the zinc and cost. Nice to see it got a good rating.
  6. I got the head done complete with new valve seats about 600 miles ago.
  7. They all looked good, but of course I change them all, so that could have been one of the issues.
  8. Ok I am really starting to believe I did in fact jump the gun on my motor, I went through everything while it was apart and all I could find is a small leak on the exhaust valves for 5 & 6, just like you said @Mark Maras. I did a quick lapping on them and it stopped the leak. I then cleaned the head up and put it all back together. It now runs great and the oil pressure is right where it should be. Nothing wrong with the carbs as well so if in fact it just decided to run really rich for a while I have no idea what caused it.
  9. I had to check, the Patrol came with a 6, but it would have a P not a L and it was 4000 cc. My photo of the page is misleading as it is show where the different SN are located for all of the Datsun's. It is a L24 in the photo.
  10. Jim: Pulled the speedo gear out of a spare 4 speed A tranny to see if I could see anything. It is a worm gear with 6 "threads" from the start to finish.
  11. I do not have an answer for the teeth count, but I think you are correct as too all of the different tooth count colored cogs being different diameters as well . I am sure they compensated for the different diameters by off-setting the housing to bring the gear back in full contact with the main gear.
  12. I am sure that I checked the movement of the pistons and made sure the cam lobs where up. And I cannot say enough as to it was not a puff of blue smoke, but a large plume.
  13. It did not lose any oil, as it only ran while it was smoking for a hour or so while I was trying to find out why it was smoking.
  14. That is close, the pressure did not shoot up, it started following the rpm’s. like the pressure relief was not working. At the exact time that my pressure problem stopped it started smoking. I pulled the head because of the smoke and the fact the leak down test showed something wrong with #5 and #6. I have just finished cleaning the head and changing the valve seals. Because I have not found anything wrong so far, l am going to put the head back on and run it. It is very possible that it is a very rich problem, before I put the carbs back on I will have a good look at them.
  15. I did start there as well, I used a variable resistor and walked the gauge up and down the scale and it is working correctly a few days before this happened. I do not disagree with you as a coincidental problem.
  16. The head gasket idea is what drove me to take the head off, but I can not find anything wrong with it. It has about 600 miles on a complete rebuild and has been running awesome with no problems until this one.
  17. Captain: Sorry for the confusion, jonbill is correct. It has been running great, but with high oil pressure for about 100 miles or so. Then I checked the relief valve, all good with no modification. Started it up again and still had the problem.. Shut it down, installed gauge started it up and pressure was good at 61 psi. Shut it down and installed a new pressure sensor I had. Start it up and reading was good, but started running rough. Looked in rear view mirror and large cloud of blue smoke. This all happened in the space of 15 min. The two problems might not be connected as Zed Head eluded to but it seems to me that they are connected.
  18. It smokes at idle and a greater amount(a lot) of smoke when reved up. The odd thing is that the higher oil pressure disappeared at the same time it started to smoke. Almost like something let loose. The smoke is blue.
  19. It did just start to happen, it has only ran in the garage since it started to smoke.
  20. It would get over 80 psi when up around 5000 RPM, it followed the engine speed 40-45 at idle and up to 80+. The "problem is a rather large amount of smoke coming out the pipe. I do believe the high oil pressure caused something to happen.
  21. Found this while looking through a older repair manual, check out the engine number
  22. Here is a label I found under the seat as well.
  23. I have spent the last few days trying to solve my engine problem with no luck so far. The motor has been running for a week with oil pressure that would get higher with engine RPM. I did a search and figured it was the pressure relief in the oil pump. I took the relief out of the oil pump and everything looked good. After reinstalling it, I had the same problem. I then installed a gauge in the oil sensor port and ran it for a while. It started to run at a nice 60 psi. And I thought I had fixed it but at the same time it started to run really rough. And of course really started smoking out the exhaust. I pulled the plugs and all six looked nasty. Black and oily. The fact that all of the plugs are dirty is odd. I pulled the PCV hose off and ran it for a while to see if any oil was coming from there and back to the intake but it was good.I then did a compression test with the following results. #1 - 158 #2 - 159 #3 - 160 #4 - 160 #5 - 158 #6 - 157 I then did a leak down test #1 - 100/92 #2 - 100/94 #3 - 100/92 #4 -100/94 #5 - 100/81 #6 - 100/80 I can hear the air leaking somewhere on both 5 and 6 So I pulled the head off. There is a fair bit of oily, black soot inside the cylinders. Everything looks good on the head gasket, so I have not found anything yet. As it is in all 6 cylinders I do not understand where it is coming from. Is it possible for the oil to be passing by the rings and still get that good of compression results? What would the cylinders look like if it was a coolant leak instead of oil?
  24. Part number says it is for a 1979 Nissan 280ZX
  25. I found that when using this wire, a flap disc in the 60-80 grit works very well. I can not say enough on how easy it was to clean up my ugly welds using this wire. https://www.esabna.com/us/en/products/filler-metals/mig-mag-wires-gmaw/mild-steel-wires/spoolarc-easy-grind.cfm
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