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Bonzi-- Check your inbox. You have a PM. Mark and Charles--- I've got a roof donor for Bonzi and I'm about 1,000---2,000 miles closer to him. Great of both of you to try to help, but believe me I think mine will "git er dun" with a lot less expense/hassle. Jim D. "Zup"

Here's what you'll be looking at. The end of the lever where the cable attaches is at the upper right.

i just found that the Z store has these clips now, and they are identical to the ones used on my early 1974 260Z: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01e/16-9703 Heater Cable Clamp, 7/72-73 240Z Code: 16-9703 Price:$1.83

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If you take the screws out of the knobs pay close attention. The screws are small and easily lost

I've been making some great progress the last couple days here that I've had off and had the house to myself. I installed the electric fuel pump and got it all hooked up. Took forever for me to drill through the swaybar bracket to mount the pump. But got in and replaced all the fuel hose back there too. Got the Technoversions diff snub mount in too. That took a bit of work to wrestle the bracket into place. Then yesterday I got a bunch of stuff steam cleaned up/painted up/polished up. Rebuilt my carbs with the Z Therapy kit, got the studs off my old intake onto the N36 intake. Then I test fitted everything together. Still waiting for a few little parts from MSA that I realized I needed or should be replaced...and still waiting for my trans, but other than that...some great progress. Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr Untitled by blodi, on Flickr

I can't remember for sure, but I think that if you remove the front panel/face plate over the heater controls you can easily see the levers and cables that move the various parts. Might be easier than a mirror, although I do recommend the mirror also, I use one often. Pull the rubber knobs off of the levers, remove the screws and pull the face plate off. It's not super-difficult. If you try the mirror, make sure you have a bright light. Sit in the passenger seat and position the mirror and light and you might able to see if it's moving the watercock lever or not. My car had a bent cable which wouldn't push, and pushing is what shuts the watercock. You'll probably use the mirror and find that the lever isn't moving, then take the face plate off and find a bent cable. But Captain Obvious wrote up a whole thing on using Honda watercock valves in place of the expensive Nissan valves, if you find that the lever is moving but the water flow isn't controlled.

Can the water valve be seen if you put a mirror in the footwell? If so she Jai could use a mirror so see if it's hooked up and does it move...

And does the blower turn off and on?

Do the heater control levers operate smoothly and feel connected? Dennis

I think what they did on the rocker was fill it so it lined up well with the fender. I do all my panels this way. I may rough a door out on a stand but for final work I mount them on the car, adjust them, then block them as one large panel, across the body gaps. Then I fill and block as necessary. This makes the car as straight a possible. I do however prefer to have less build...

I would have to look at the FSM to be sure. Likely candidates include a watercock that is stuck open or a heater cable that came loose with the watercock in the full open position. If it's the former, a good flushing may loosen it enough to operate. If it's the latter, reattach the cable if it's in good condition.