Narrowing down my faulty Cold Idle problem, where to get a replacement ?

[Killain]

I think I have narrowed down my faulty cold idle problem with your help and the FSM to a erroneous Air Regulator Valve, but finding a replacement is proving much the task. Every where I look I'm met with "No longer available". . . "Part Discontinued" . . . "Used, Maybe good, Maybe no good". So I thought that perhaps these air regulator valves might be rebuildable ? If so, does anyone know about this, or have you gotten one rebuilt ? If so, by whom and how, and where ? This Nissan #22660-N4210 is an elusive part to find, any help is apricated. 🤥

[Captain Obvious]

Some ideas:

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44553-help-me-understand-the-aar-please/

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50310-a-better-auxilary-air-regulator/

 

[cgsheen1]

Other Nissan engines also used this or a similar AAR. Some with a coolant plate attached to the bottom, some without. Besides the ones listed in the threads posted by C.O. above, the early RB engines also used them. I think there's some very good information in those two threads if you read carefully. Most of us here in Arizona have just eliminated them when they fail - cuz our climate...

It's a fairly simple device that, when unpowered, allows a certain amount of air to bypass the throttle plate. It consists of a shuttle that is moved by a bi-metal strip wrapped with resistive wire. At startup the valve gets battery power which heats the wire and thus the bi-metal strip. It is powered as long as the ignition switch is in the ON position. The bi-metal curls with heat and causes the shuttle to slowly close off the bypass air port. It takes a few minutes. Both the intake manifold and the models with coolant plates can keep the heat in the bi-metal - and thus the bypass closed - when the engine is running and for a period of time after shutoff (so a restart while the engine is warm doesn't necessarily have a fully opened bypass). Once it fully cools, the bypass is fully open again when it's in good operating condition.

[Terrapin Z]

I have some used ones if you want to go that route. 

[Killain]

Well, as odd as these things can get, I actually found one, or so, but I found it, 'New' in United Kingdom at a Figaro, yeah a Nissan Figaro dealership. a Really nice young man running the parts department has them, but under a totally different part number and I decided to throw all concern to the wind and take a chance on it, what the hell, it's only 3000 miles away. but I was a little worried about the electrical connector, and he said it's only a two wire connector, so . . . .    It'll be here next week ?

Edited May 6, 2022 by Killain

[Patcon]

Good sleuthing!!

[Zed Head]

32 minutes ago, Killain said:

I was a little worried about the electrical connector, and he said it's only a two wire connector, so . . . .    It'll be here next week ?

Maybe you'll get lucky and the old one is just bad.  Without power though, the new one won't work correctly either.  Wasn't really clear in your original post if the AAR itself reached full temperature.  People often disconnect the coolant hoses that supply the heating block under the AAR.  There's more to the system than just the AAR.

Anyway, you'll have an extra if you find out that the problem is in the wiring.

p.s. cgsheen gave a good overview of the system but I think that the AAR only gets power when the engine is running.  Like the fuel pump.  Actually I think power might be branched off of the fuel pump power circuit.  Otherwise, the valve would start to close as soon as the key was turned on, but the engine would not be getting warmer.  In case you decide to get a meter or test light out and check for power.  Won't hurt to disconnect electrical while the engine is running.

p.s. 2 - you'll need some skinny picks or small screwdrivers to get the metal clips off of the connector.  They are very difficult to remove.

Edited May 6, 2022 by Zed Head

[Killain]

Hi Zed , I was trying to keep the search as simple as possible, and i was able to find a cross interchange list of the part under different manufacturers. Here is the cross interchange list:http://www.kakapart.com/oem/partscrossinterchange/nissan-22660n4210

[Zed Head]

I was thinking of the power supply wires from the harness.  You can check those with a meter or test light with the engine running.

Pretty sure the testing methods are described in the two links that CO provided.

[Killain]

Well an unexpected problem, The valve from the UK did not pan out, so I'm back at the starting gate with my shot Datsun/Nissan 22660-N4210 air regulator valve. There is 0 extra units out there, and only 2 that seem to be workable, one at $212.00 and a Ebay unit at $175.00 and it's rebuilt, I hope. And this is not something I can put off, without it the old 280Z stays in the garage ? what to do, what to do ?

[siteunseen]

I'm thinking it may be a wiring connection problem too along with Zed Head. You have new parts without the fix you're after.

Some people delete those things and stay on the gas pedal until it warms up. Mine had a problem where the electrical connection would twist and pull out of the aluminum body of the AAR.

I've never understood dropping electrical windings in water, maybe shoot it with a heat gun or hairdryer to see if the plates move.

https://www.google.com/search?q=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=r4d5YsfZHqmfqtsPlrmFkAI&oq=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoICC4QsQMQgwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCABBDHARCjAjoFCC4QgAQ6CAguEIAEELEDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoOCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQ1AI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOgUIABCSAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6CwguEIAEEMcBEK8BOgcIABCABBAKOgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIYDUJEMWI1VYPxhaAFwAHgBgAHMAYgB-hGSAQYwLjE0LjGYAQCgAQGwAQA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#cobssid=s&sbfbu=1&pi=aar delete classiczcars.com

 

 

 

 

 

[Zed Head]

23 minutes ago, Killain said:

The valve from the UK did not pan out,

You might have saved some money then.

Do you have a meter or test light and know how to use them?  It's pretty hard to get by on a 280Z or even a 240Z without that ability.  The parts cannon is not a precise weapon.