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Everything posted by Killain

  1. Hay Thanks cgsheen1,, I was gone for the last few days, I got a chance to get some time in an old Bell 47g and it was better than I expected. New and modern is great, but there is nothing compare to a open cockpit 54year old Bell helicopter, no doors, no bell or chimes, just you and the machine. I sent my gauges out for cleaning, maintenance and a calibration. I'm going to need to locate a locale Z club and maybe a shop who can do the semi dash removal and install my new restored gauges. I suffered a back injury 13 years ago, and there's no way I can work the dash out far enough to remove the gauges on my own. This This is the last item on my list for this 280Z. I've done a number or things like removing and having my locale upholstery shop who striped and installed new foam and I was able to find a Vinyl material manufacturer and got a yard of material damn close to the worn out spot on the drivers seat and you would be very surprised how well the whole job finished. It is the seat below and the side left bolster section that was replaced, pretty good for a 47 year seat fabric ? And on my trip down south, I gave a lot of thought to s 5 speed swap from the 4 speed, and the benefits from the swap are truly marginal all things considered. If it were a complete change of gears and ratios, and that is really bordering on the semi-impossible and the gain is marginal. The only thing other than that is I need to give it a major tune-up. I did the valves earlier this years, but a complete change of plugs wires and timing check is in order. It is a early built 1975 280Z and it has no rust at all, that alone is remarkable on it's own. Here's the resewn driver seat I install last April.
  2. Wow, what is wrong with LED's I know they draw a lot less current, but why would that be a problem ? 🤥
  3. Yeah, I found a clutch kit on RockAuto and it is a kit that is meant for the larger 240mm clutch. Sure is lucky with RockAuto and thankfully most everything is affordable. 🙂
  4. Hay, These are different, but will they fit into the small lens that is inside the different gauges ? On my fuel gauge, once you remove the bulb is a small green lens it looks to me, But they are very different than most everything I'm finding ? Thank you,
  5. Ok, I've never worked on a 280Z so I'm feeling my way through the list of issues I have in front of me. Just not too sure that LED's are the right way to go, but. . . . Thank you for your help !
  6. Great, Is there a better or brighter bulb for the Toshiba 12V 3.4 watt gauge light bulbs ? If I go LED the bulbs won't be brightness adjustable ?
  7. Well I've been looking at a number of different Datsun/Nissan Clutch kit sites on the net, and it would seem the 1975 2+2 models have a 240mm flywheel, and since this car is very original and not hammered, I'm going to just get the flywheel turned. I live in something or an 'Automotive Service Desert' so anything more complicated than basic things, you have to look at getting it flat bedded to where the hell ever it needs to go. I'm not in a place that can do things, so I have to use my usual guy and he can do a clutch, and there is a Machine shop here.
  8. Hi All, I need to put a clutch in my 75 280Z and I was a little confused by all the clutch kits out there for this very early production 1975 model. It looks like it takes a 9 1/2" by a 1.24" clutch, since it is a 4 seater, and with the very inevitable switch from a 4 speed to a FS5W71B 5 speed transmission, will the OEM clutch Kit for this 4 speed by adequate for a 5 speed ? Thank you,
  9. Well the A/C is working and fuel tank is back in and again, all system up and running, but now the straw that broke the camels back so to speak, I need to replace the speedometer, and the other two gauge pods. What is the best way to remove the dashboard and replace the gauge pods and speedometer ?
  10. Well I don't know where they were, but I put them back as best my memory serves ? We put the tank in and the new sending unit for the gauge. The low fuel light was on, and that was with the 4.5 gallons of fuel I bought just after the tank was in, and then today I put another 9.3 gallons of Premo 91, so that is 31+ gallons and with that the 'low fuel' light went out, but it only reads about 1/4 tank. So I need to change the gauge and now the speedo isn't working. The trip-o-meter works, but that's no real help. But I got it out on the road and running about even on the expressway and I got to say, this 4 speed "Sucks Big Time" this car came with the 4 speed, but you run out of transmission long before you run low on engine, I wonder if I can put a 5 speed in this 1975 2+2 ? and I need to do a good tune-up, it runs nice at speed, but it has a very slight wobble at idle ?
  11. Yeah I can see only a small area of the inside or the tank. The shop clean/blast/strip both the inside and outside, The liner is a red colored sort of an epoxy like liner. It is bonded to the tank insides, it won't collapse in on itself and the shop took off the 4 pads so I had to use some 2 face tape and a little epoxy myself to reattach the rub blocks or spacers or whatever their called their like 2" X 3", not very soft which I can understand after sitting doing their jobs for the last 47 Years ? But I expect to hear from the shop about the reinstall of the tank and Howie's looking into converting the R-12 A/C to R-134. . . So I just hope all is going swell. Now that the tank is done ( went out and got 5 gallons of gasoline for him yesterday afternoon, and I bought a new gauge sending unit from www.jdm-car-parts.com and have sent 3 emails asking if they have any instructions or guide as to how to install their $219.00 sending unit, but I never got a reply. Howie's pretty talented, so hopefully he can get it working and reading correctly, just hope it's not like the malaise of the oil pressure gauge, and many other owners have also spoke of a oil pressure gauge that on start-up reads like 60PSI and them once warmed up the pressure reading will drop quite a bit despite having great oil pressure ??? I put a new sending unit on the engine last spring and it still has great oil pressure when cold, but only when you speeding up from a stop shows plenty of pressure at 30 to 50 MPH ? Engine is very quite no matter what so I'm not going to devote too much worry over it ? But the re-awaking process continues !
  12. Hi, No you can't look inside very well at all ? I just have to hope the tank is clear once the liner is in ?
  13. While at the shop doing the cleaning and relining, the owner said it would be a really good idea to put a filter before the pump and there already has one after the fuel pump ? The shop is in Hemmings motor news West York Radiator/Fuel tank repairs ?
  14. Well I have the car on a lift, so I took the tank to a radiator/fuel tank repair shop in York PA this morning. I talked to the owner and he looked the tank over and said it would be about 10 days if he started it today, they clean the tank and then have a fluid that turns into a tank liner. He showed me a 1916 Ford tank he's working on, Looks real good it's red the final liner is. I could find any company manufacturing new tanks for the 1975 S30, so I'll have to go with a relined tank which is mine. I have the car at my friends shop and I need to do something fast. But overall, this has been a job I needed to do since I bought the car last year, and I have a new gauge sending unit to go in once the tank is ready to be put back into the car. At least I now can drive around without a 1 gallon can of gas in case I run out ? I was wondering now if I should have pulled the evap tank and have it too relined ?
  15. Well it looks like the day of doom is here, The Z was at the shop for another reason, but while it was idling in the driveway of their shop the pump blew a hose again and gas went every where. But they shut it off and pushed it into the shop and up on a lift, there si some reason the hoses keep blowing apart and it's from very weak hoses somebody used in the past, BUT they drained the tank and then looked inside and guess what . . . . It's VERY RUSTY in there. So I said I need to take the tank and get it restored, but how was I going to do that with it sitting in their shop ???? to which the owner said No Problem, we'll push in the last bay and it can sit there until I get the tank finished and back to them. So there's a old shop about 120 miles from here and I'll pick up the tank and drive it out to them to be restored. There isn't a lot of alternatives right now, I really don't have much of a choice, I could hunt around for another tank, but I'm not going to find a 47 year old tank that's not as bad as the one I got so I'm restricted in what I can do ????
  16. I bought my 75 280z last year and have been chasing away years of idle sitting in a garage somewhere in Michigan untouched for the last 13 years or more. Last week I was able to get the MSA exhaust system installed, ( word of advice to anyone hiring a experienced exhaust shop to do some work. . . . Do not give them a can of spray paint ! ) I had the new downpipe ceramic coated last winter, and I cleaned and painted the muffler in VHT exhaust paint on my own in my basement last winter, of course they decided to use the 1 can of heat paint Which I supplied to " Paint The Resonator " of course, the workmen decided to repaint the whole system down pipe and muffler in silver, I don't think painting over the ceramic coating or the muffler is a problem and I repainted the muffler in VHT black, but the downpipe was in satin black, and now it's silver, but he did very nice work anyway. The system only has one pipe clamp, everything is welded together in one piece other than that, but in my limited driving of my Z I notice something that perhaps some of you might have noticed. . . . The 4 speed transmission is not all that well matched to the L28 engine, in 4th gear you run out of transmission long before you have even got the engine to break a sweat ? in 4th gear and up to 60-70 MPH the engine is at 3000 RPM and it's got a lot more to give but the transmission is ready to clock out for the day. I can see why only a few years later Datsun decided to go to a 5 speed. My car is super original, and I feel I'd like to keep it that way, I was going to replace the backup light bulbs with LED bulbs, but I took out the one in the back and it said 'Toshobia' I believe, (I might have spelled it wrong) printed on its base, The more I go over this car, I am more certain am it has only 52000 miles on it ! Since this spring I put in a new battery & new cables, I've gotten the seats fixed, and had a local shop rebuild the seats with new foam, ( makes a world of difference ) and I have been able to do some brake work, Change the oil, adjust the valves, do the exhaust and now I'm going to get the A/C working. And of course the most feared job laying dead ahead is the gas tank and it needs a new gauge sending unit installed, and drain the tank and see what it looks like inside. but I want to get in out and do what we all want, drive the car ! I bought it and had it inspected before final sale, car wasn't cheap, but it is a very solid 280Z. I did my research before I bought it, I wanted a S30 car but I also wanted fuel injection and factory A/C. It has all the original equipment even the stock AM/FM radio and power antenna and all works fine, Even the clock keeps correct time. I put in a New shift boot and E-Brake boot ( they aren't the correct color I wanted but if you have looked into shift boots, You'll see their isn't too many available ) But the car is a real; strong runner, be nice if the transmission was matched better than it is, but that was 47 years ago ? but the paint is damn near like it was when new . . . The one reason I decided on the mid-Years of the S30 in Technology, I am not afraid of high tech, but if you have a new vehicle, you know what 'High Technology' means, and unless I'm missing something, Datsun Technology left town a long, long time ago. And technology without replacement parts, is only voodoo technology without much of any answers. Very much of it simply don't exist anymore. So buying a Z31 or later 1990's car just scares the heck out of me. Some of the parts you might find, but there isn't much worse than having a super nice 1985 Z car that sits in your garage or driveway simply for want of a sensor or other electrical item. But I trudge onward. . .
  17. Time Left: 1 month and 20 days

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    I'm in need of a fresh Receiver/Drier for a 1975 Datsun 280Z with factory A/C, It took a four-Seasons part # 33286 and is slightly odd as it has a intake line on the side of the unit as in the pic above.


  18. View Advert Looking for a factory A/C Receiver/Drier for a 75 280Z ? I'm in need of a fresh Receiver/Drier for a 1975 Datsun 280Z with factory A/C, It took a four-Seasons part # 33286 and is slightly odd as it has a intake line on the side of the unit as in the pic above. Advertiser Killain Date 07/04/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1975 Model 280Z  
  19. What is the AAR ? I'm not use to that part ? The Air Regulator Valve just bolts to the intake manifold ?
  20. Thank you both, I'm getting the feeling I have a 'Vacuum Leak' and it is just somewhere I haven't been able to either slow the engine down so I can check for a visible or audible vacuum leak, once it's fully warmed up is seems Ok, but . . .
  21. I know this sounds stupid, but is it possible I have the ARV plugged in backwards ?
  22. Ok Great, on page EF-24 it talks about the Thermotime switch. I never used a multimeter, so I got one and I'm teaching myself about how to use it. I will pull the Air regulator Valve connector and see if 1. it's getting any power and then see if I can measure the voltage. The last big repair job I did was try to repair my marriage, of course she been gone for the last 14 years, so I guess that wasn't very good fix ?
  23. So despite correcting for no cold idle operation, the valve isn't getting correct or any voltage ? Is that circuit protected by a fuse or fuse-able link ? Thank you,
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