Prop shaft and half shaft phasing

[AK260]

Forgive me if I’m saying something obvious or that you have tried already. On mine, after the rear ended rebuild, I found a few of the half shaft nuts / bolts kept loosening themselves a little, causing vibrations. Have you checked the torque on those since your test drives? I had to go with thread-lock in the end to be certain they didn’t move again.

[dutchzcarguy]

1 hour ago, AK260 said:

a few of the half shaft nuts / bolts kept loosening

I never had that.. you use the original bolts (they fit very snug)  and nut with the spring ring?  I always use the originals and never had that problem.. shaking yes but that's because my early 71 car has no diff arrester band.. not even the connecting stuf on the underbody.. they are not there.. at 200km/hr it shaking vigarously but.. oh i have to restore my 240z for the 3th in it's life haha.. maybe in 2 years or so..

9 hours ago, Zed Head said:

  Look at that tiny number.

The driveshaft is a important part that needs to be in balance, i would bring it to a specialist, remember it turns at a high rpm and if it breaks it could break your legs right slamming through the chassis thats how dangerous it can get. (It would be exeptional but it's not impossible.)

Talking about 0,02 mm or 0,0008 Inch..  i worked with parts that had a max play of 0,001 mm or 0,00004 Inches...  (Mechanical-Electronics)

[heyitsrama]

@dutchzcarguy I found a spare driveshaft off my 73 240z that’s in the garage. I’ll pull it out later and see how they compare. Might even do it after work today.

What is not fun is installing and removing the exhaust multiple times.

 

@AK260 I’ve not seen any of the driveshaft bolts or half shaft bolts loosen themselves. The snap rings have been doing a good job holding them back.

The only thing is removing the bolts for the driveshaft that’s almost behind the diff mount is a COMPLETE pain. 

No special adjustment on the clutch for the fidanza / 240mm clutch combo? I bled the clutch it was the only “adjustment” I did. I used everything new, the clutch collar was matched to the 240mm pressure plate.

[EuroDat]

Back in 2016 we had a similar discussion about propeller shafts and half shaft uni-joints.  Might be helpfull to link it here.

U-joint cap diameter:

Propeller shaft 240Z/260Z: 25mm

Propeller shaft 280Z: 22mm (Rockford type 430-10)

Halfshafts: 28mm

Steering column 280Z (Staked Dia:15mm x39mm)

 

 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2021 by EuroDat

[Zed Head]

On 4/27/2021 at 7:20 AM, heyitsrama said:

On the passenger side half shaft I found that one of the u-joint was binding (it had a lot of resistance to movement in two directions) so after pulling it out I beat on the ear with a dead blow to get it to be looser.

 

16 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I found multiple things, one the driver side half shaft needed to be tapped slightly to get looser along one of its axis. 

Quoting a couple of things that are "not good".

I had a halfshaft was binding along the axis.  I think it was one of the replacements that I mentioned earlier.  It came from a 1978 parts car that had right rear damage, like it had been rear-ended.  I took it apart, cleaned it up, looked for visible damage, and put it back together but it still was binding.  Must have "brinelled" the ball path.

I spent a lot of time cleaning up the mating surfaces for the flanges (the factory paint was peeling, leaving an uneven surface), shaving the burrs off the lock washers (Nissan lock washers are very well-made they dig a substantial burr when you loosen them.  They hold tight.), and then making sure the centering rings were clean and free of dings before installation.  There are a lot of small things that can add up.

Nissan does recommend marking the propeller shaft before disassembly.  Seems like a good shop would have variable thickness circlips to get a u-joint centered before balancing.  Maybe a shop that builds drive shafts.

Check the fit of the slip yoke in the transmission.  Might be part of your problem.

Edited April 28, 2021 by Zed Head

[ETI4K]

10 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Talking about 0,02 mm or 0,0008 Inch..  i worked with parts that had a max play of 0,001 mm or 0,00004 Inches... 

Wow, those are some tight tolerances.  I've spent many, many days trying to figure out how to deal with total accumulated tolerances of .005" from about a dozen parts.  Ahh, the good ole days.  They were fun, and yet, I'm sure glad it's not mine to worry over anymore.

[dutchzcarguy]

12 hours ago, ETI4K said:

Wow, those are some tight tolerances.

Yeah.. the capstan-shafts in tape recorders had those tolerances, they were made by STUDER. Switserland.. (It's that axel that drives the tape in a taperecorder, those recorders could cost up to about 700000 dollar.. woepsadaisy.. 😵 )

[heyitsrama]

I was not able to notice any play in the u-joints. I attempted to follow the service manual and some videos i found online. I just got the driveshaft back from Southbay drivelines, the gentleman there said it was 1/3oz out on the rear, and 2/3oz out on the front. Shall put it back together later tonight.

 

@Captain Obvious so whats kind of force is generated by a 1oz out of balance driveshaft?

[Captain Obvious]

LOL.

What is your name?

What is your quest?

What is the force generated by a 1oz out of balance driveshaft?

[heyitsrama]

It's butter smooth now. Thanks for a help yall 🙂

probably going to be some more stuff to sort out later.... like always.

 

 

 

 

[dutchzcarguy]

9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

LOL.

What is your name?

What is your quest?

What is the force generated by a 1oz out of balance driveshaft?

Sorry don't get it... Mi Mi Mi...  (Beaker on the muppet show.. the help in muppets lab.  look it up! 😉  )   

I suspect the above of cap't O  is out of a film i've not seen?  😕

[Patcon]

Monty python "The Holy Grail"