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z8987

I've been looking for a project

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17 hours ago, z8987 said:

- I capped the master cylinder and the brake pedal is hard to push on and will not go to the floor - so my guess is that the booster and master cylinder are good.

- connected front brakes to master cylinder, brake feels good, 

- connected back brakes, we bled the brakes, a solid flow of fluids but the brake will now go almost all the way to the floor.

The testing seems to show that the problem is in the back.  If z89 keeps "doing things" he'll probably find the problem.  Use the same logic that was used to isolate it to the back end.  There are similar tricks that he could do if he thinks about the pistons in the wheel cylinders.

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This might be a bit out there but if the cause isn't found soon it might be worth a look,  I disassemble all new hydraulic parts I purchase because I have found more than a few things wrong over the years, muck, grease, rust, sometimes the seals are installed backward or springs missing. I hope you don't have to go that far.

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10 hours ago, Persimmon240 said:

I may be out of "line" here - but give me a "brake". I realize you indicated that your fronts had good pedal; but you also indicated that you replaced the calipers. Are the bleeders pointing up? The reason I ask is because - back in my misspent youth, I happen to have removed and then re-hung the calipers on the wrong sides. I am sure stocks in brake fluid went up during the days it took to solve my recalcitrant retardation. Worst case it is one more thing you can cross off of the list. Besides, who told you retirement was relaxing?

Checked that. sounds like you were not the first to do that

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

This might be a bit out there but if the cause isn't found soon it might be worth a look,  I disassemble all new hydraulic parts I purchase because I have found more than a few things wrong over the years, muck, grease, rust, sometimes the seals are installed backward or springs missing. I hope you don't have to go that far.

I'm willing to go that far.  When ever I buy a new gun, I always dismantle it and clean it.  I've found something in just about every gun, with the exception of an H&K pistol.  Those Germans 

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I'm still working on my brakes, can carburetors.  The car seems to be running pretty good, it takes some time to warm up, but once it's warm all seems to be well.  I live in a neighborhood that is pretty confined, so I went around the block today. The brakes will stop the car, but they need some work.

 

I noticed the car ran like it had square tires, possibly the results of sitting for 15 years. I need to put new tires on it, and I'm thinking about restoring the wheels.  What's the best way to restore the wheels?  Thank you. 

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11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Wheel pictures?

 

Edited by z8987
it was messy, i would rather it be deleted.

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11 hours ago, Patcon said:

Wheel pictures?

All the wheels are the same as this one. The tires are shot and need to be replaced. I drove the car the other day, and after sitting for 15 years the tires have flat spots. I'm looking to restore these wheels and put new tires on.  Should I just have the wheels powder coated?  I'm not going to do anything until I'm sure of what's the best thing to do.  What about the hub caps, they also need some work? 

 

01b5ad75747dc2054ca65ba4fa9261bf22f940f0db.jpg

01c15a037d256e54e261bdaa72b136917b2f6c3126.jpg

01994e6307c02234bb186cbcff9d138687a0cd5543.jpg

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Many people do powder coat the wheels.

The hub caps look surprisingly good. I think there is a hub cap restoration thread here somewhere 

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Thanks for that Cliff. I was on my phone and can barely navigate the site from there. Much less do the required searching and posting...

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53 minutes ago, z8987 said:

Is there any advantage in leaving it all original? 

Depends what you mean by all original. Do you mean you have a an original "survivor"? A car that shows wear but is unrestored and doesn't necessarily need restoration? True survivors can be worth a lot of money if well documented. Otherwise a well executed restoration or refreshation helps the value as well.

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The wheel dated 11-73 and most likely the hubcap is from a 74 260Z.  For the future value or resale value it would be profitable to have a set of date correct stock steel wheels. (if you ever run across a set).  

If by "original" you more or less mean "stock" with original colors and more or less original looking...  the market would be far wider / greater and the Z more quickly resold.  Many enthusiast want stock/original Z's kept as the Classics they were - while other enthusiast want a stock original looking - so they can do only the modifications they specifically want, without having to pay for or correct mod's they don't want.  

 

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