7tooZ
Supporting Member
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Content Count
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Everything posted by 7tooZ
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Is this a warm or cold engine?
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Warm up the rubber well and lubed well. Two or three people helps. Seal from the inside after installed if needed.
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Excellent job.
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@Tweeds 7tooZ, by 'felt in the channels', are you referring to the bit of weather-stripping at the base of the window frame(where the window emerges from the door), the top of the door, or both? all of the channels are lined with a felt like material. Just a thought to check before you put it all back. I have used white lithium lube but there are other products.
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Good job guys. This is a good time to look at the felt in the channels and lobe the guides. Keep at it. I have regulator out in the storage if you need photos.
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First of all it’s not the end of the world. I always remind myself that if I took it apart it will probably go back together. So far that has worked. Second I ask assuming we are talking about a 240 door here. Sounds like you removed three of the four screw showing. Good news. First loosing the same three screws don’t remove them. Trying moving things around to get the back in the same location. May have to loosen the fourth one too. If you can see where they were and get them back. Loosely snug them and try the window again. Try helping the glass rise. There are two guides that we hope haven’t moved. There is a roller that the top make sure it isn’t blocking the window. I just spent two days replacing a power window motor on my son Susie. worst case is all window/ body shop can fix it. other here may have more pertinent help. They will help along the journey. More photos always help.
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I am using 205/60 on 15X7 VTOs (0 offset) with 1in suspension drop. Spodo is off about 7-8% Dia is 24.7in with 8.1 tread width 205/55 will be approx 23.9 with 8.1 tread You should have no rub problem depending your wheel offset
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If you need I can pull my faceplate off so you can see how it mounts to the radio
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Here is what the faceplate looks like
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Looks like the switch is missing. Correct? That radio looks like a late 71-72. I am guessing that someone changed the faceplate for some reason. I have two faceplates that would work with your toggle switch. Neither are show quality but are very useable. I would be happy to send them for you to look at in trade for your faceplate or we can work out a price. PM your address and I will get them out in the mail.
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My 71 had a three wire plug that powered the radio. It is a square plug with B, W and ? (Can’t remember) the blue will have a fuse holder. Don’t confuse it with the defroster which is similar with a red wire. If memory serve me right.
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i could send you a copy of Ztherapy’s CD. The quality is a bit scetchy but the inform is helpful. PM me an Address. I believe it shows how to straighten the needle.
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So you have probably realized that with these cars there is hardly ever one answer to these questions. We know those two wire go to the door switch. As ZT said the 71 manual shows the driver side should have a Y and a B and connects the compartment over head light and to buzzer for the key lock switch. Most buzzers is located under the dash near the steering column and brake light switch and are usually disconnected.
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What manuf date is that car?
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Working with a friend on a stock 71/72 240Z. It currently has both an aftermarket electric fuel pump and a mechanical pump. Both appear to work. Can the manual pump work if the electric is turned off and or the other way around.
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That is should be the Horn relay next to your hand
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The bar that is curved and is missing is what opens the throttle some when the choke is applied. Look through the back of the carb and apply the choke. You should see the butterfly open a small amount.
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That is definitely the door switch. It grounds interior lights when door is open. There is one on the passenger side too. Turns on the over head light.
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I know Greggars and mentioned to him to come see what was being said over here. He spent $40K earlier this year on BAT and is for real. He has the ability to own this car if he wants it. Probably hasnt written it off yet. Two other high bidders are questionable. Could they be hiding behind their new "handle" -
Weird! The high bidder does 1 bid @ $111K and never commented or bid before. Then disappears? Did they know the reserve amount and make a safe bid? I'll be interested to see if this car shows up somewhere else.
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Well no problem. If you have a better idea of what to do go for it. I was just trying help. Those are 20 year old carbs that worked perfectly until I blew out a seal. So I had new seals and bearings put in by the company that sold them to me 20 yrs ago. Came back beautiful and started right up on the first try. All Good here.
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Here is an explanation of what that bar does from Ztherapy. B2CD5276-7099-4A71-8D26-05C49E52ED1F.MOV here is a view of it working. Might help
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Looks like a three screw SU. The one on the left is missing connection for the mechanism. Here are some picture of my 3 screw carbs mounted. Hope it helps. Also the Ztherapy site may help too connects between those two marks
