Holy $^!# I bought a turd

[Captain Obvious]

Also, I don't believe you ever mentioned the year of the car, but I'm guessing 73 or 74 and it appears to have had a flat-top to round-top modification.

And with that in mind, your throttle linkage between the two round top carbs is not correct and does not fit right. It's too short. Note how the ball is almost completely slipping out of the rear carb linkage in your pic. That's because the linkage between the two carbs is too short.

[mattjcr240]

15 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I figured out what's the deal with the damper stalks. The "normal looking" one is from your typical 240 round top carb. The other "top hat shaped" one (with the protuberance) is from a 73or 74 flat top carb that your PO has "repurposed" to use in one of your round tops.

Problem with this plan however, is the damper stalks or the flat top carbs are longer than the ones for the round tops and will bottom out if you try to do this. So your PO punched the damper rod out the top of the cap to shorten the effective length and be able to use it on the round top carb. Then it appears he applied epoxy to attempt to seal the rod and lock it in place.

So, the cap has been punched through, but what I said before about it happening accidently was incorrect. It appears to be an INTENTIONAL misuse.   Mother of invention and all that...    Also explains the different fill level markings.

hahahaha that's awesome! so stoked you found that out. they are identical length and the glue job seems good. i added oil into both carbs and measure with the original damper rod. I might throw some higher grade epoxy on there hahah the car is a 73.

[mattjcr240]

On 9/15/2018 at 4:29 PM, zKars said:

Interesting car. I love the ingenuity of the previous owner.

I'm SO going out and making an intake just like that one! I bet there is a cone air filter out front of the rad but yes, show us more pictures! I will not use exhaust tubing or crush bends however.. Wait, I don't have a Z at the moment.... oh well.

It's missing the heat shield which is why the carb return springs don't have a place to connect at the bottom, so what was done is what you see to make them a place to mount.

The PCV valve should be connected to the open block vent. The valve cover connects to the missing air cleaner housing as mentioned. 

Take heart. If it runs and stops you've got something to work with.

I suppose I can offer an air cleaner housing and heat shield so you can get that thing looking and working a bit more 'right" under that hood. 

I would be interested in finding a stock air cleaner housing

[mattjcr240]

would putting k & n filters right on the carbs better than this CAI?

[siteunseen]

From all I've read the SUs are temperature sensitive, they need some heat.  My '72 has a winter and summer flap on the snorkel of the air box plus a heat riser connected to the bottom.  My 2008 Stihl blower also has a winter and summer setting behind the air filter.  There's got to be something to it, something about atomization I believe it's called.

If you could source an OE air cleaner you could get all the hoses back where they belong.  My $.02.  

[Mark Maras]

 If you get an original air cleaner housing, be sure it includes the mounting hardware.

[zKars]

Matt, PM and I'll give you me cell and we chat about options. I have lots of SU parts and air cleaners etc to get you going.

 

[mattjcr240]

On 9/18/2018 at 11:26 AM, zKars said:

Matt, PM and I'll give you me cell and we chat about options. I have lots of SU parts and air cleaners etc to get you going.

 

thanks ZKars! 

[mattjcr240]

my ebrake was stuck so I'll cleaned everything good and got it to move but it wont return even with both ends unhooked from the drums. I figure I'll take it out and let it soak in some honey goo.

[mattjcr240]

???

[grannyknot]

Hopefully you will be able to peel off those fiberglass panels and have untouched clean metal quarters and fenders underneath. Fingers are crossed.

[mattjcr240]

1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Hopefully you will be able to peel off those fiberglass panels and have untouched clean metal quarters and fenders underneath. Fingers are crossed.

that would be nice but based on the rest of the car I highly doubt that. I think I'm going to just try and fix it and see how long it holds. I dont think I'll keep this car for the long run. maybe a summer two and then sell or trade. everyone thinks it's a porsche haha