CDL1542 Posted September 12, 2015 Share #1 Posted September 12, 2015 Hi all,Been putting in a ton of work on the 240Z and am putting coil overs in all around (front is all done!). I've hit some trouble for the first time in a while and was hoping for some help. Tips, tricks, etc on removing the spindle pins as well as how to properly disassemble the rear hub would be very helpful. I have T3 coilovers and am planning on sticking with the drums still for the rear. I already got the spindle pin lock bolts out but unfortunately could not save them in the process either. Thanks in advance! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted September 12, 2015 Share #2 Posted September 12, 2015 The spindle pin removal is a popular topic of discussion. There is a ton all over the internet to look at: pictures, descriptions, horror stories, etc. Not to be too negative but if you had problems with the lock bolts, the spindle pins themselves will be tough. Sometimes they come out easily but not enough. One trick to get things started and allow some penetrating oil to get in is to put an old lug nut n the end of the spindle pin and spin the pin in its bore. After that, you can tap on the nut and see if the pin moves back and forth. From there it's just a matter of how far you can get it to move and what it gets stuck on. Worst case, people cut the pin in to pieces and press them out later. Here's an example, from Blue's work - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html And here's the hubs, which are also described in the FSM - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html And bonus stuff - http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zzzzz Posted September 13, 2015 Share #3 Posted September 13, 2015 Spindle pin removal was the single most challenging thing on my rebuild. Having said that, I removed strut with control arm, after cutting with sawsall btwn hub cast iron and control arm, front and back, the first one (right side) dropped right out with a couple taps with hammer and punch.... The other one on the other hand... Tried the same method-no. Added heat-no. Tried the shop 5ton press-no. Finally went to industrial machine shop with a 50! Ton press - he put a little more than 25! Tons on it, and it popped right out ~ Was a "bit" rusted.. Remember to put some anti-sieze on this stuff when you put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDL1542 Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted September 16, 2015 Spindle pins are getting cut out. Biggest pain I've had to deal with on the car to date by far! Rear hub disassembly is next (hopefully!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted September 17, 2015 Share #5 Posted September 17, 2015 It's a right of passage every Z owner has to go through, designed to see if you are worthy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDL1542 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted September 23, 2015 It's a right of passage every Z owner has to go through, designed to see if you are worthy. Got the first one apart! You are definitely right about that. By far the biggest pain I've dealt with to date on this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Coffey Posted September 23, 2015 Share #7 Posted September 23, 2015 An air hammer, penetrating oil, and heat has always worked for me. I've probably pulled 50 spindle pins over the years. Luckily I've never had to cut one out. When reassembling be sure to use lots of anti-seize. 20 years from now someone will thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen1 Posted September 23, 2015 Share #8 Posted September 23, 2015 It the rust (dirt, crud, water deposits) wasn't enough, I've seen several that were "mushroomed" internally on one or both sides of the Lock Bolt. The spindle is "softer" than I would have originally thought. If it's out of place, or the lock bolt is over-tightened, or installed incorrectly, it can deform the pin in that area - making it even harder to remove. Besides the anti-sieze, use caution installing the spindle pin and lock bolt - and don't over-tighten. To remove, I use impact. A couple of old lug nuts on the threads of either end (or both...). If I can get the spindle pin to turn, I can always get them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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