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CDL1542

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Everything posted by CDL1542

  1. My first set of watanabe wheels were 16x8 rears on 225/45 and I had to use spacers for positive offset. Combine that with them sticking out past the fender, blown struts and NJ potholes on a cold day(very very big pothole) and you get a wheel hitting the fender pretty hard with nothing to push it back. I should have known better but it happened. Cut the fenders back for flares and welded them shut since.
  2. The competition seats are the ones that Kameari produced a while back. I would advise to stay away from the cheap ones just because they're a safety issue. These ones weren't too cheap but they're prety small. If you have greater than a 36 pant size you're out of luck. As far as comfort goes, for bucket seats they're nice and I like them but the high sides make it difficult to get in and out of the car without a quick release on the steering wheel. That's a good call, will have to try that with the jack. Should help make things a bit easier. I have to confess that while I've be
  3. Flares were never a plan for the car. I went through a set of wheels before this that were just a little too wide and a little too big that rubbed and hit the fender and cracked it good so I decided to go with flares. Since that first set of wheels I'm on a different wider and bigger set now. I have the front end of the car jacked up just a bit high to get a jack under the air dam easily but can lower it down a bit for a closer fit with the front and rear ones. It's on coilovers but has room to go lower. Being in and out of the garage, I have it at a height where I can work on it and get a jac
  4. It's been a while since I've posted back on the forum but I wanted to check back in and show some progress of my 11/70 240z. I bought the car about 3 years ago and have done quite a bit of work on it since. I wanted to build a mostly period correct Japanese influenced race car for street use. It's in it's final stages now and I know it might not be some of the purists cup of tea but I know some of you may enjoy it and some of the rare bits and pieces I've compiled together. A lot of time, effort, money and blood and sweat has gone into it so far. This is how the car started, a mostly stoc
  5. Holes are NOT welded shut. They're still shiny and I masked them off before painting to keep them open, so carbs are still an option! I was going to go with the retro cool Devil Z setup on my 3.1L stroker but after I started figuring out the prices of just about everything else I realized that it was out of my price range at the moment. Worse comes to worse, I'll sit on it and pick the rest of the pieces up over time. Bringing it back to life was a fun project in itself.
  6. It's the early, type 1 surge tank, not an intake plenum! It's for ITBs or triple carbs/blowthrough turbo setup. There isn't much of a difference between the type 1 and type 2 as far as functionality goes. I've heard with triple mikuni carbs you're good for 10-15 pounds boost.
  7. Hey everyone, I was thinking about going turbo with my Z but after sitting down and factoring in prices and what other things I want to do I've decided not to. I have a type 1 HKS Surge Tank which I recently painted wrinkle black. I masked off all the surfaces on the inner sides of the tank, back plate, and the piping and connecting area within and it's in fantastic shape. Could use another few coats to make it more wrinkled if desired, but I prefered a more subtle texturing with it. I put in a couple weeks worth of refinishing this and bringing it back to it's former glory and it's ready to g
  8. Well I picked up some 1/8" thick ABS plastic with the same grainy pattern as the heater panel so we're off to a good start!
  9. Sad to say I never had the pleasure of meeting him in person but he was more than helpful across the forum and took the time to answer some very straightforward questions when I was more green than I am now. Shame to lose a fellow Z enthusiast... RIP
  10. Thanks for the posts guys! Was starting to think I was out of luck with this. There's a few reasons I want a removable key: 1) Added security to prevent someone starting the car without the key to the battery in as well as a key to the ignition. 2) Car is still a work in progress and I always like to disconnect the battery when working on anything to prevent fire, zapping myself, blowing fuses, etc. 3) Regardless of how the car is, I always disconnect the battery when I'm not running it just in case... you never know when something might have a bad ground and spark. Adding a swi
  11. It's funny how simple of a solution it is with these issues. The most difficult things seem to have the easiest solutions.
  12. Hey everyone, I decided that popping the hood all the time to disconnect the battery was getting a bit old and I wanted to install a battery disconnect switch (one with the red removable key) and actually had one from a while ago. My question here is on how big the wire gauge needs to be (and still be safe), and how I should go about making or where I can but the wiring components necessary. I have a spot for it on the dash and thought I'd ask for some tips especially from the guys that have done this kind of thing before. Chris
  13. Zed Head, hit the nail right on the head with it! Put the key in, turned it all the way over and then just simply took a pair of pliers and torqued the rod just a couple degrees further over. Works amazingly well now! Thanks a ton!
  14. The ignition switch is a new one and the rest of the cylinder (including the lock work fine) That's exactly what it is then, it has gotten progressively worse through use. I think that this should work, I wasn't sure if there was another way to adjust it so I thought I'd see if anyone had the same issue before I went at it. I'll give it a shot tonight and see where it gets me and report back.
  15. Just wanted to check back in on this and say that the new distributor solved my previous issue. Time to iron a few other things out before I can get the car done though. Seems like I've had it in the garage more times than on the road unfortunately.
  16. I have had this ongoing problem for some time now. Basically the lock cylinder works great, the ignition switch (when not hooked up to the cylinder) works great, but when the ignition switch (with arrows pointing towards each other [ >< ] ) is screwed into the body of the rest of it, I find that I really have to crank the key over multiple times and only get it to crank every dozen tries. I'm assuming that the metal piece that actuates the switch is out of alignment or bent. Not sure if this is a common issue, but I'm getting tired of taking the steering column apart and would appre
  17. The coil is a pertronix coil. I tried with both a 1.5 ohm and a 3.0 ohm coil and it didn't do it. I believe that the crane coil is limited to 6500 rpm and some guys recommend the MSD blaster2 coil. And by doesn't work, I mean that it doesn't even twitch, zero movement!
  18. I pulled the old one and now understand what you mean by "it only goes in one way" being keyed the way it is. I thought it could be turned 180* out accidentally depending on the position of it but I see that I am wrong here. I got the reman unit ordered through a local shop. It was about 100 bucks overall so I can't really complain about the price and I should have it tomorrow. To clarify a few things, I DID have the engine running after the swap. I had to pull and rejet the carbs and it ran but then the distributor went. I ran through the entire system beforehand and it was fine. The
  19. When I say I'm new to timing, I mean very very green. My Z is my first project car (and almost finished at that). I've read multiple threads, watched plenty of videos of V8 distributor installs and understand the basic theory about timing but Is there any chance I can convince someone out there to explain it step by step for me from installing the distributor and so forth? The whole car is a learning experience in a way for me and the timing aspect is something entirely out of my range to tackle blindly (and I really don't want to destroy the engine in the process). I'm still trying t
  20. I ordered a REMAN one for just about 100 bucks. I have access to all the tools I need, however I never set timing before so will need to do some research on that. I understand it conceptually but the process is what eludes me. I was told the mechanical advance should be 34-36* BTDC @ 2,800 RPM. Idle timing should be in the 10-2* BTDC. Actually doing this will be an entirely new issue for me. Any recommendations?
  21. Well everything else in the system was good and I broke out the multimeter and the only thing that wasn't reading the same as when it worked is the matchbox so that's the only thing that makes sense to me.
  22. Looks like my e12-80 matchbox is fried on my ZX distributor. To the Stroker guys out there: Should I go with another ZX one or is there something better I can go with? Thanks!
  23. Doesn't look like I'll have time tonight but doesn't the condenser aid in minimizing the spark across the points contacts to make them last longer in a points system? Would this translate over to the electronic system by storing and boosting the spark? I don't see how the radio interference is the main concern of the condenser at all.
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