Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
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Hello, I tried posting this in the "Help Me" section, however this might be more appropriate. I am wrapping up this conversion and had a few questions: 1) I am using the 260Z Manifolds and I know I can keep the coolant lines as is, however when replacing the Balance Tube what do I do with those coolant lines? There were several I had to remove and there is no place for them on the 240Z Balance Tube. 2) What are the differences in the spacers between the 260Z and 240Z? I know either ones will work, but will I feel a difference if I use one vs the other? The ones I have are factory 260Z Spacers and about 1/4" thick. 3) The 260Z Throttle Linkage is adjustable. Do I need t…
Last reply by srezzo, -
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So I am hooking up my heat shield and return springs on my SU set-up and I am kind of baffled about the center linkage. Please look at the picture and the arrow,what hooks to this. Of course this pic doesn't show the heat shield and return spring. The rear carb seems to work as advertised as far as the balance screw, but the forward carb the balance lever just flops around. I believe I have the return springs in there proper place.
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 5 replies
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well i just finished doing all my body work and i just got a set of zx rims and now im going to focus on my engine and i wanted to start of by replacing the orange air filter can and replacing it with some intakes "cones" on it but i cannot find any on the web or any info on it. any information on where to or how to get them fitted or anything would help first picture is obviously being my stock engine (its a little dirty) and the other of an example of what i mean to do thanks in advance
Last reply by Devil_Z, -
- 3 replies
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I'm reposting this in here out of the "Help Me" section in hopes to get some more responses. So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Also after some time driving …
Last reply by Esc8p2NeverLand, -
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Hi everyone, I am going to look at a Z today that has Triple Mikuni Carburetors. I want to make sure I can identify the sizing of the carburetors, whether they are 40mm, 44mm, or 50mm (doubtful). The car has a L28, so it will most likely be 44mm, but I am not 100% sure. I understand there are stamps on the Butterfly throttle plates, does anyone have a picture of the stamped number? I understand 40mm would be stamped 165, 44mm would be stamped 175, and 50mm stamped 185. Any pictures would be of great assistance! Thank you, spitz17
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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This weekend I took the dashpots and float bowl lids off the carbs to give them a cleaning. Upon dis-assembly I noticed the rear needle was visibly bent, so I will have to get a new one. However, once the carbs were descuzzied I noticed that the rear vacuum plunger in the dashpot was sticking and not falling freely. When just the needle w/plunger was put in, it would fall freely, but once I put the domes on it would stick. This is causing massive drivability issues of course. I'm wondering what i could have messed up that would lead to the dashpot sticking like that. It does it with or without oil dampening or the dipstick in. Maybe I bent the needle even worse and …
Last reply by Z-Luke, -
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I'm having my 1971 240z's engine rebuilt and I noticed that the person working on the car replaced my 4-screw carbs with 3-screw ones. Are the 3-screw carbs better? Should I tell him to put the 4-screw carbs back on?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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- 32 replies
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I am pretty determined to keep my newly acquired '73 240Z original and run the flat tops (AKA boat anchors). Initially, the car idled real well but coughed all the way up the power band. With a little study on the threads here, it sounded like the issue was the small pump on the side of the carbs. Sure enough, took these both apart and cleaned out the 'jelly' in the forward carb and the operation was much improved. (The rear carb side pump looked to be in good shape). Float bowls were both at the proper levels. The car now idles beautifully, works well when accelerating hard, works well when choked; but seems to have an intermittent miss when running at c…
Last reply by motorman7, -
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Topic says it. I can rev the he** out of the engine when warm and idling but if i put gear on and release clutch, it barely moves and dies almost instant. I got to have at least 3K rpms to move it a bit.. need help quick! Edit: i probably posted this on the wrong place. Can it be rear brakes that cause this? They are totally stuck.
Last reply by Reverend, -
su adjustment 1 2
by racer88- 23 replies
- 3.9k views
Hi everyone i have 4 screw round top su's on my 260 with 280 engine. I have read everything i can find on su carbs and how to adjust them. I have rebuilt them,checked to make sure there is no throttle bushing play. Set the float level by backing out the nozzles 10 turns set the needle height by lossening the srew and setting the piston down onto the fully raised nozzle made sure the nozzles return to normal position when choke is released. My problem is if I raise the nozzle with the mixture nut on the front carb all the way up with the engine running it runs smoother. If I do that on the rear carb it starts to run rough. The rear carb likes the nozzle about 1 3/4 turns d…
Last reply by racer88, -
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- 961 views
but can someone identify this carburetion system for me and if it's a vintage upgrade? TIA
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hi all, I'm about to get my car started and I need damper oil for my carbs but NAPA, AutoZone, and Shucks all don't have it. I went to a local import auto shop and they told me that I could just use normal transmission oil. Is this correct? Or should I just order SU carb damper oil from the BD catalog? Thanks, John
Last reply by Z-Luke,
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