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23 topics in this forum
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For all those with the original style paper/cardboard glove box insert (left image) in their 240z, I found a cheap and easy way to upgrade to a plastic insert from a later 280z (right image). I picked my used 280z insert up for $10 on ebay a while back. Here is the picture of what I started with. A huge cut in the back of my cardboard insert from the prior owner. Its only gotten bigger since I've owned the car Old and new side by side. The 280z plastic insert will need to be trimmed to fit. There are various approaches, I chose to trim just the bottom tab and the made a new hole for the glove box door arm The finished product is much nicer…
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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- 11 replies
- 10.9k views
Installing a GM HEI Ignition Module into a 1976 280Z (which already had a ZX ignition) This article describes how to upgrade a ZX ignition module to a GM HEI module. In this particular case, the ZX ignition module happened to be installed in a 1976 280Z which had been upgraded to a ZX distributor/ignition module using the Atlantic Z Club instructions. The purpose of the HEI install was to fix a sudden engine cut-out problem and a jumpy tach problem. Heat Sink The first thing I needed was a nice heat sink and, afters scouring the basement and considering attacking an old Western Electric telegraph test set with a hack saw, I laid eyes on a stack of these: Which …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 7.9k views
Z's are notorious for leaking exhaust gasses (or fumes) into the interior. This article details a procecss to find and eliminate the sources. To make the article easier to read, key photos are hot linked, while additional views just have a hyperlink you can click on. When driving with a window open, the air rushing around the windshield and drip moulding creates low pressure in the front half of the open window. This vacuum is what draws the air in the back half of the open window, and ultimately draws in exhaust fumes through any leak near the back of the car. If the windows and doors do not seal well, exhaust is drawn in (to a lesser effect), even with the windows c…
Last reply by 240dkw, -
- 2 followers
- 31 replies
- 19.8k views
This comes up often enough that it should be posted as a tech article. This is taken from a different posting where Heater Control Panel Illumination was the topic. In case that is what you were looking for: (Original Thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141090#post141090) The Clock not working in the Z's is such an endemic characteristic that it almost seems a basic requirement of the car. If your clock works....it's not a Z. Fortunately, with a little careful effort it can be avoided. Here's how: ......snipped from original thread.... As far as your clock, you can fix it, and if you're careful it will last a long while. I fixed a pair of thes…
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 28 replies
- 10.7k views
At the front of the radiator you'll find two pairs of wires both Red and Black. Typically they're taped to the harness with Blue electric tape. Those are the connections for the Fog Lamps in parallel (that means they are both powered off the same circuit, but not dependent on one another to work). Inside the vehicle, typically behind the Fuse Box or Hazard Switch, (depending on whether the bundle has been moved or not) you'll find two sets of 2-wire connectors. In my car they were connected to each other even though neither circuit was operational. The first circuit is for the Fuel Pump (Electric) and it's pair of wires are Green and Black/White. You can see the i…
Last reply by rtaylor, -
- 13 replies
- 16.1k views
Here's a primer on how to adjust the doors on your Z so that they fit properly and seal well. ADJUSTING THE Z DOORS: Unless the car has been in an accident and the door opening or door itself have been tweaked out of shape, most problems with the doors are due to misaligned latches, hinges, or worn components. Presuming that it is adjustment or bad parts and not bent items check the following. First perform a visual check of the door. Check to make sure that the door is aligned properly within the door opening. Check the spacing along the top part of the window frame, the spacing between the window frame and the quarter window, also the spacing between the door skin and t…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 6 replies
- 5k views
I wrote this some time back to help a member whose window had fallen off the tracks. Remove the regulator assembly. That's the gear and scissor mechanism that the window crank operates. This will allow you to operate the window pane within the opening without the regulator getting in the way. Once it's out of the way, slide the window glass up and down inside the frame and tracks. You should be able to determine if the window will go up and down smoothly and effortlessly (of course barring the weight of the pane and gravity). If it passes this test, then you know that the window frame and sashes are set up properly. You can now direct your attention to the regulator. If o…
Last reply by Miles, -
- 2 replies
- 3.5k views
Found this on ODOT regarding Auto License Plates: 803.525 Number of plates issued. The Department of Transportation shall issue two registration plates for every vehicle that is registered by the department except as otherwise provided in this section. Upon renewal or when otherwise provided under ORS 803.555, the department may issue stickers in lieu of or in addition to registration plates. The following shall be issued plates as described: (1) Only one registration plate shall be issued for a moped, motorcycle, trailer, antique vehicle or vehicle of special interest registered by the department. (2) Only one plate shall be issued for a camper that is regist…
Last reply by Mike, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 6.3k views
Thanks to all the posters on this forum! After reading through quite a few post on the interior fume issue, I decided to attack the problem on my car. I have a series 1 car in fairly good shape that I use as a fair weather daily driver. I love the car, but was getting sick of smelling like a tailpipe! Even just cracking the drivers window 1/2" would fill the car with nasty untreated exhaust fumes.. I used to think it was bad aerodynamics of the car. My therory was the rear turbulance from the car would draw he fumes forward along the car and enter the side windows. I was getting ready to buy a BRE rear spoiler and try to modify the aerodynamic wake of the car to r…
Last reply by beandip, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 5.4k views
I wrote this some time back about how to adjust a hood. Has the hood always been hard to open, or did it just recently become hard to open? If it's always been hard, it is possible that at some point before you owned the car someone adjusted the pin or the hinges such that it's pressing against the fender lips and hence requiring the "slam". If it just recently became difficult, did you recently do some adjustments to the hinges, the latch pin or accidentally hit something with the car? If so go back and double check what you did, the hood shouldn't need re-adjustment for most procedures you do to the car. If you smacked someone, then it's possible you've tweaked the hin…
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 0 replies
- 3.9k views
I wrote this in response to another Z owner having problems with his windows. His initial question had been about the need for the pressure roller situated on the top part of the door and it's effect on the window operation. I also wrote down the steps to adjust a door window to operate smoothly. The window roller is required to push the glass inward as it reaches the top of it's travel. The inside door panel and the fuzzy strip attached to it, push the window outwards. Between these two and the window frame and front sash the whole thing is maintained in the center of the window frame. The fuzzy gasket in the top part of your window frame should be FUZZY, no grease, no…
Last reply by EScanlon,
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