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@Captain Obvious Just had a look on my October 1970 240Z that hasn't been touched since built. It has the flat side up.

The idle air screw only adjusts idle RPM, not the fuel-air ratio. It's difficult to lean out the mixture on the EFI engines. Hope that you find something wrong somewhere. One possible reason for a rich mixture is a leaking fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragm can crack and let fuel directly in to the intake manifold through the vacuum reference hose. Another possibility is a lack of the vacuum on the FPR vacuum port. A disconnected or cracked hose or a connection to the wrong vacuum port. The FPR reduces fuel pressure in proportion to intake vacuum. Check the hose for fuel to see if the FPR is leaking, and make sure it's connected directly to an intake vacuum source. Sticking injectors is a possibilty. A maladjusted AFM is a possibilty. Generally, the AFM spring should not be messed with. But sometimes it's too tempting. See if the glue blob on the adjustment wheel is intact. I had also found that my aftermarket AFM was set to run rich. I had to use an old original AFM to pass emissions inspection in Oregon.

At $660 with like 6 days to go, I think they will go higher than $750. Possibly double that...

Try Amayama in Japan

I'm chucking ideas here, Nissan did make a cap to blank off heater size pipes (1/2" ex dia), 14058-14600 was originally for the Datsun SP311, but it's a correct Nissan part for such a job. Whether you can find one in the US is another matter, I got mine direct from Japan.

So today's question... The grommet in the original shift boot is not symmetric. It has a flat side, and a more rounded side. Which way was it originally installed? I've seen pics of original boots that seem to show the flat side up, For example, here's a pic of an original boot and a reproduction (made number of years ago by a member of the forum): And here's one from Roo's recent thread about his 3-D printed shift knob: But I've also seen pics with the more rounded side exposed (up): So what say ye experts of the originality? What is the correct original orientation of the grommet? Here are the threads those pics came from: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38329-shifter-boot-alternatives-anyone/page/2/#findComment-344979 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69522-3d-printed-gearknob/#comment-678725

Thanks guys. I will jettison those two parts.

E31 is “right” for your 71. N42’s were from 75 onward. E88’s were 72-74

Hello everyone, maybe somebody can help me? My 1977 280z is running rich at idle and the idle mixture on the AFM doesn't seem to help. I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge I temporarily installed still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gasoline. The previous owner mentioned that the car running rich was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention it had no valid inspection on it, APK over here in the Netherlands). After cleaning all the connections and checking the timing I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer at some point but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR. Can anybody help me diagnose the problem? I would really like to drive the car on the road before the winter stop (oldtimer insurance). Also still waiting on some parts from Zservices EU but some are on backorder. In my quest to make the car run as it should I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil with a 0,5 Ohm one. Can somebody confirm this?

Hi all, When removing SUs how do you convert the 3 way heater pipe to 2 way? A 5/8 to 3/4 4" pipe with a 45 would be a dream come true so the heater core hose isnt bent for a straight pipe reducer but I've searched for days with no luck. Im not sure there is enough material in that pipe to tap a plug and I dont really want to use a cap. Any ideas I would appreciate it! Cheers

Not quite a unicorn... but pretty close. Current bid is $205. I predict it'll take over $750 to buy these.

Authentic OEM Nissan Fairlady Z/Euro 70-78 Datsun 240z S30 Headlight Covers $0.99 starting bid You can submit an offer through my ebay listing. Ebay Listing Here https://ebay.us/m/d2oWbC

1970-73 Datsun 240z Round Top SU Carburetor Kit 4 Screw + NOS Nissan Screws $0.99 starting bid No reserve https://ebay.us/m/cMVFUh Ebay Listing Here

Not the shipping tie downs but the ones that attach to frame maybe? Googled showed some similar when I searched... https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+tie+down+points&sca_esv=06dd4c047f376356&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&udm=2&biw=1229&bih=556&ei=F8a0aJ7AG4b-p84Pzf-V8Qc&ved=0ahUKEwjep42dhraPAxUG_8kDHc1_JX4Q4dUDCBE&uact=5&oq=240z+tie+down+points&gs_lp=EgNpbWciFDI0MHogdGllIGRvd24gcG9pbnRzSP4gUKwHWIYccAF4AJABAJgBS6AB5QOqAQE3uAEDyAEA-AEBmAICoAJLwgIGEAAYCBgemAMAiAYBkgcBMqAH-QKyBwExuAdJwgcDMC4yyAcC&sclient=img

A good one. And you can't even here the Beatles.

Does anyone recognize these Tow or Tie Down Hooks / Rings as being a Datsun part? Thanks, Keith

How is that any more than just a guess - like the "I'm turning down the knob 2 1/16 turns"? Don't you need to know the AFR created by adjusting the jet position? And isn't the position different for varying temperatures and elevations?

Pretty easy to do, simple scaling down of a surfboard caliper would do the trick. If I get time I'll design one up this week. here's a couple of basic designs.

Would calipers not work?

I’m surprised that a gauge to measure the depth of the jet in the Z SU ‘s hasn’t been created. Seems like a little spring loaded gauge inserted in the jet track to expose depth of the jets would be simple for some of us that sell cool products ( 3D printing) on this forum. It would eliminate “how many turns down” which is kind of a screwy way to get where you want to be on your mixture. Anyone agree?

@smdvr67 I would delete your personal contact info. Bots crawl the web looking for info like this! Only share personal info through Private Messaging / PM's

The first part looks like a bracket for a spring perch for leaf springs. Don't believe either are Z parts...

Right now it's on the motor, but I was surprised at how the empty cavities will flash rust in high humidity. I'm sure I will always have the obligatory rust. Hopefully some small bolt somewhere,. A speck is a sufficient qualifier... ;)

Both parts... NOPE not a z part.. jmo.

Recently swapped my 1.5 ohm Petronix Coil and 3.0 0hm resistor with a MSD Blast coil with no coil. Car runs much more better and does not hesitate on traffic jams. Problem is tachometer is not working. How can i fix this?