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Pretty nice 72 with a ~100,000 mile rebuild engine. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-377/

It would be fascinating to know the how Skinner-Union (way back in the middle of the last century) came up with the bendable-tang-with-a-curved-ramp solution for closing the float chamber outlet valve. Maybe they adopted it from the shut-off scheme used in somebody's toilet tank? 😄 It would all be so much easier if there was an adjustment screw. An external screw would be nice, but even an internal screw would be an improvement. I've often wished that someone would do a plot of the geometric relationship of gas level vs needle valve displacement, so that the effects of bending the tang at its fulcrum could be properly understood. One might also take a look at the effects of changing the tang's radius of curvature. Any volunteers?

I would not use any adhesive on the hatch glass seal. If it needs sealing later you can lift the edge of the seal and add a thin bead there

Hi @Parman , I totally understand your pain with the 3M adhesive and its black tar it leaves behind. My hatch top weatherstripping piece got detached. I used the 3M and Permatex - same results, it won't stay in place. I looked up the Amazing Goop one, and do like that it is clear when dries up. Did you use the Automotive version or the Trim one? Thanks! Den

I ones had a neighbor and she had 2! and was up the next day, walking!! this was 15 years ago! 👌

How do i understand this? your recovering of the OP and in a few weeks your up and walking or do you already walk with it? Is it made of stainless with a nylon cup or is it some other metall? I hope it don't rust! 😄

So what was "Hmmmm" (five letters, since we are stickling...) intended to mean? I'm looking at it in the context of your previous comments, such as: In amongst all the negative comments about S30.World and their work on this thread, from where I'm sitting it looks like you're trying to hint at something without actually saying it. You want to have your cake and eat it, don't you? Always 'more on this later', but never actually committing to an You tell us that you've had a working relationship with the owner of the company in question for "many years", and yet I've not seen you make a single post or comment in their support while all and sundry were posting uninformed nonsense about them here and dissing their work. Hmmmm indeed. I think I've got your number. On the other hand, you might well want to be careful about associating yourself with S30.World on here. After all, our friend SpeedRoo might call you a "so-called expert" and Zed Head will be asking you if payola is involved.

Check MSA. This morning they had the aftermarket ones on clearance.

I'm curious as to what the culprit is. Was it the distributor, ignition module? Was it even an electrical problem? I had a problem once with my 72 240z that would stall when going down the freeway. I would start it, it would run again. I ended up putting a Tee fitting in the fuel line from the fuel pump and ran a pressure gage inside the car through the window. Turned out when the engine would quit, there was no fuel pressure. The steel fuel line from the engine to the tank had rust in it. I actually got it cleared by running a wire through the fuel line. So, what happened? Jim

1974 Datsun 240-Z Super Samuri Iconic Auctioneers - 1974 Datsun 240Z Super Samuri-For SaleThe first generation Nissan/Datsun 'Z' cars, launched with the 240Z in 1969, were designed to compete directly with European sports cars. Styled with influence from Count Albrecht Goertz, they combine

Little more time out in the garage. Checked the coil and near as I can tell, it is ok. Also checked fuses in the panel and those seem ok. I did find a couple things that weren't plugged in, not sure what they are. The more I dig into it, it really looks like this is not the original wiring harness and/or engine. The firewall boot is still sorta there, but there is definitely no membrane in the middle. I didn't look close enough to see if it just dry rotted out. but it does look like someone ran a harness through it. I'm not sure where to move to next. Is there a way to test ignition module? I found this post that has a lot of good info in it. Im going to give some of this a try.

I finally got the fuel level with the jet while turned 10 turns down, I then returned to what people recommend as a starting point, 2.5 turns from the top. With the choke on, will only run on starting fluid. The only thing I haven't tried is fresh fuel, Ive been using fuel I keep for my lawn mower, haven't tried new gas. Ideas? Jim

WOW! My 6 letter comment that could have meant a host of different things was almost immediately taken by our resident grouch as an insult or slight that I had directed towards another member of this forum. I've had a relationship with Chris for many years and have done business with him on numerous occasions. Before Covid I was to have traveled to The Netherlands on his dime to inspect his collection and offer suggestions. I've always found him to be a gentleman on all levels who is apparently having a problem with lost/missing paperwork. I wish him all the best. While I may be a greasy and now rather ancient mechanic who doesn't know his a@$ from a hole in the ground I've learned a bit about human nature after dealing with the public for the past 45+ years. There are some people who are just plain unhappy. This unhappiness is manifest through insults, cursing, almost consent contradiction, just plain difficulty/impossibility to deal with or all of the above. While my shop was open I had to deal with these types. Thank goodness they were few and far between. From this date and time I will no longer comment on or address ANY missives from the individual in question.

I think my tab looks too much like a hump, so what happens is the bowl is filled to almost the right level, viewed from the nozzle. I bend the tab down slightly to allow a bit more fuel to flow and it overflows. I think the shape needs to be more of a ramp than a hump, I think what happening, the float gets to almost the right level, I bend the tab down a bit and suddenly the bowl over flows. I think the needle valve goes over the hump. I'm going to try to slightly straighten out the curve. My email is emptech@surewest.net I read it often, don't see this site all the time. Jim

Today, I tried to install the rear hatch glass in my 240 all by myself. BIG MISTAKE. Even though the glass and weatherstrip sat in the channel OK, I simply could NOT get the inner channel to slip over the weld flange, resulting in an adhesive mess. Then spent two hours with paint thinner and a LOT of rags to remove that black adhesive first from my orange metalflake paint and then from the weatherstrip and its flange channel in an attempt to salvage it for another try when I have an assistant to press down on the edges AND the temperature is at least 65 F. That may not be until next spring. SIGH. Maybe I'll bring my set up into the house and do it in my family room AFTER I put down a big plastic "drop cloth." BTW, the hatch was secured to each of those stands so it would not shift or fall. I was following the procedure outlined by Wick Humble in his book How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by placing screen spline in the weld flange channel and then laying in a continuous bead of adhesive over top of it. But, with the glass/rubber assembly not sitting low enough in the hatch opening all I managed to do was get adhesive everywhere it should NOT be -- including me. Oy. So, in the end, I did replace all my OEM incandescent taillight bulbs and my choke light with LEDs that came in today from Super Bright LEDs in California. Cold comfort, but progress.

Recently I got two set of two of the missing Pieces from my 240Z toolbox. I had a set which fit the image, but had different part numbers. Funny enough, now i have three different sets, all have slightly different shape or surface. some have different numbers, but appear to be for the same purpose :-) Despite being a bit corroded, i have at least now another missing piece of the puzzle. Thanks a lot to @26th-Z for your support! I had some free time, so i decided to get some small stuff done on the car. First thing to check off was test-fitting the headlights. Luckily, I always have a range of NOS and used parts on hand. I usually try to use old parts for test-fitting, so I don't mess up new parts, but in this case the old ones weren't really usable. So here we go: NOS headlight buckets and chrome rings, with reproduction rubbers (I will use the NOS set for the final assembly). And installed. You got to love the factory stamps on shiny plated parts. As usual, all bolts are temporary only for the mock-up. For the final assembly, I will use original fasteners :-) I wasn't first sure if the order of the assembly was correct, but it appears it is. And the frog got some eyes, again :-) Next was this choke assembly reinforcement plat made out of hardened plastic: As the name suggests, it's there to reinforce the choke assembly, which is usually mounted on the inside of the center console, and can get a bit wobbly. With this plate, it's instead mounted on the transmission tunnel and way more stable. It's one of these (invisble) improvements of the car, which I think really give the car a better feel. It's quite tricky to place correctly, though. But luckily I had a few completely broken center consoles, so the easiest way was just to drill the holes through the console And then sandwich it all together for test fitting. I also installed an old ashtray just to see if it all still works correctly. Now with the holes on the transmission tunnel. I will not use the original sheet-metal screws but instead have nuts welded on the outside and use machine screws, so it looks like it's a factory thing, from the outside. And the interior mock-ups are coming along. Driver side seat rail, passenger side footrest and center console (With choke assembly) is installed and looks good. Ignore where the choke wires go. They're just there for easier installation.

Are you talking the old knee... 😁

I'm with you on older is better but when my "newer" "fireball" coil goes to sh**...I'll be walking home on my brand new artificial knee. I ran the old one for 55 years and that SOB just quit.

Maybe your cables are to old? They get little cracks inside (after you took them off) and the resistance changes to too high? Also use some fresh gasoline because todays fuel is really... sh*t.. I always now use 96 overhere.. my 240z runs 15! km/hr faster on the good stuff! And no problems with older fuel.. (Yeah i know you don't have 96 fuel but your country has different numbers, just use higher number in cars that don't drive daily. No ballast resistor... could make that new coil to hot? The old stuff gone, haha, i drive a 240z with a 54 year old coil, it's still running strong.. in the WINTER it's my daily driver! Lastly, i don't know the "newer" stuff like those "fireball" stuff but i don't ....... wouldn't want that sh** under MY bonnet.. oh sorry.. HOOD! ;-) 😆

Glad to here that my suggestion hopefully was given some thought.

Excellent! Glad it's working. And I agree with the assessment that it was either the second ballast resistor or just a bad connection. And the schematic sketch you posted looks good. It's the same thing as suggested earlier with the inclusion of the tach (blue) wire connection. Glad that worked out as well!

Someone is going to get a good buy. With the insignificant defects, half of the bidders will be scared off.

Walter Moore is the one that did the work. Distributor advance curves revision 1-2.xls

Everything looks good. I just need to start over with the basic tune up. The dizzy I have says 17 and 34 with full advance. I used that excel spreadsheet someone made for all the distributors. My markings show it to be a '79 dizzy. It's ran great until I pulled the plugs and "cleaned them". The car has sat since my knee surgery almost a year now. I haven't done anything since but trying to get back to normal but I admit my priorities have changed. I'm going to get a set of bpr6es and leave that big ZX gap out of it. I read a pretty sensible thread on keeping the gap to the head not the distributor. So I'll try .035 to start then see what that does. I know carbs need protruding tips so I'll go with that. Thank you for the help!

You can check fire at each plug with a 12v light but before that you should make sure the firing order is right. 153624 which is not the same as a straight 6 Ford or Chevy.