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I like collecting this stuff. A few years back, a friend grabbed this old Nissan bag for me, from the Portland swap meet.

The one shown on the left without the base flange is early.

Haha!! Unfortunately, it's not yet clear: inline6 - 16530 has the yellow Johnz1971 - 17770 has the black w3wilkes - 17486 has the yellow inline6, when you get a chance, can you double check what you have on your 16530 car?

The picture in my first post is the spring side of part #6 in Zed's post. @Patcon This is the rear strut, The front looks the same. The bearing at front and the spacer at back are there and in good shape. The insulators are also in good shape. But if there were bump stops, mine have perished and are missing in action😍 So my question is were there bump stops? Assuming there were what are the recomendations for replacements?

Yeah, I would start there. Remember that you need to compress the springs to the point where you could remove that center nut on the strut, just like when you are replacing strut inserts. With the springs that much compressed, you will be able to check everything in that top mount assembly. The nut tightness, the plastic spacer, the integrity of the rubber, etc. Do you have a rear sway bar? Another location that can easily produce clunk noises on small road bumps is the sway bar end links. But that's easy stuff... I assume you checked all that already.

No, Carl doesn't have it listed. Nice video. I see a number of non original parts that would have to be replaced if it was restored back to "original". In the video, the guy says he would have the car shipped off to a knowledgeable Z expert and I agree. The car needs many things.

Interesting that there was no decal on my 12/70.

amazing cars. like this.

@Pat Horne Good luck.

Bump. I am still making the retainers and the magnets. Bearing retainer are for electronic pickup distributors from 1974 to 1978 and matchbox distributors from 1979 to 1983. They are slightly different. The matchbox distributor was used longer in Europe than in the USA so you may fid a matchbox distributor in a 1984, 85 86 vehicle overseas.

I really know nothing about these folks but they're local in the Salt Lake City area. JDM Legends – JDM Legends Store Here's a video they did a while back on a 1972 240Z restoration. JDM Legends - Season 1 Episode 1 - We Are JDM Legends - video Dailymotion

Her name was Elizabeth.

Namerow, Were you successful with the braided hose? Keith

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

I'm all LED except for the dash. I used a couple of these from Amazon for blinkers and emergency flashers and they've worked just fine since I installed them back in 2017. Amazon.com: VOFONO 2-Pin Electric Flasher Relay, 12V Heavy Duty 2 Pin Compatible Automobile Motorcycle Bike Scooter Fix Turn Signal Bulbs Fast Hyper Flash，Two Prong Round : Automotive

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

YES!! Glad to have you back :)

Wow! 😝

April 1970

Got it, I'll give it a look. Thanks!

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.

If someone is looking for an original Bosch version of the 280Z auxilary air valve here is one in NOS condition. Its for a 1976 Porsche 924, but it's a very similar system. Marktplaats≥ Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88) — Motor en...Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88)Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924-Porsche 924, 2.0liter-Voor koude start regeling (lucht)-Bosch-Getest en

They definitely were. Did that cause the brakes pads to tighten on the rotors? There was some brake dust everywhere. I ended up doing 3 things at once, flushing the brake fluid. Disassembled the calipers, and repack and set the wheel bearings correctly. The wheel bearings heating up may have caused air in the brake fluid to expand and tighten the brakes, I don't know. I just finished it off by adjusting the pedal to the floorboard distance, it was 7", now it's 8". Same with the clutch pedal, it was an inch off. Then set the master-vac push rod length to 3.5mm below the flange surface. I had backed everything off while 15 miles away trying to get home, not knowing what was going on. Things are looking good now.