Topics Last 30 Days

@jeongjihye Please tell me about the garden. Reset.

I have a 78 as well. My car currently has the dash out and I can tell you there aren’t any relays behind the glove box. Have you referenced the FSM? There are 3 locations the relays are located. Engine bay housing rh fender, under dash LH side of steering wheel. 3rd location rh side near the fuse box. Someone here on this forum can point you directly to the location.

280ZX Brake MC is ready to go! I tore this apart several years ago thinking it would be a short project, but the rebuild kit I had turned out to be for the one made by Tokico (large perforated disc residual valves) and this one is made by Nabco (small rubber duckbill residual valves, see below). I had messed around with trying to rejuvenate the reservoirs. I had read you could cover it in a solution of oxy clean and hydrogen peroxide gel under UV light for 24 hours and it would take the yellow out. It lightened it up, but they’re still clearly yellow. Super clean, though. I also did some chemistry on some of the hardware. The bleeders and reducers for this thing are not common sizes (the reducers are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0) and after two weeks of searching for replacements I gave up and decided to try chemically coating them. I didn’t want to do the hardcore hot bluing or zinc methods because of the chemicals, so I used the rust bluing method. Basically, you soak them in white vinegar to strip off the rust, zinc, and anything else on them. Then you paint them with a paracetic acid / salt solution (8 parts hydrogen peroxide:1 part white vinegar + as much salt as it will dissolve). Dry it with a heat gun and throw it into a double boiler. You’ll see the rust turn black, which is when it turns into iron oxide. Buff it with steel wool and repeat until satisfied, then soak for 24 hours in motor oil. They came out okay. I was hoping they would look more like the pistons, but this is what they look like after four rounds of the process, so it’s going to have to be good enough. Fingers crossed that they don’t just immediately corrode. You could also do the phosphoric acid version (cold bluing), but this makes a harder coating of iron oxide. Then I just had to hone the cylinder, flush it with 91% alcohol, wipe it out, and reassemble. I kept the Tokico 240Z reservoir caps since I didn’t wire the car for ZX caps (PN: 46020-U6701) with the fluid level sensors and don’t have the metal (PN: 46020-K2401) or plastic (PN: 46020-N6000) Nabco caps. Maybe later if I can find a set for less than €53.40. It looks pretty good after test fitting it. I’m waiting for a dust cover and O-ring in the mail, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.

SpeedRoo - If you're interested in more on this subject, like the 3 iterations, I'll be glad to talk on the phone or through email however this crowd clearly is fixated on that distant shiny object as opposed to facts on this greasy, dirty planet. I'll leave it at that. For those 2 chaps that responded to my question about the application of the replated parts. They will be going on what is probably my last restoration - 1972 Datsun 510 Wagon.

So, on the All Activity page, you can click on anything and it will take you to the end. So, this would be the page to start from when not signed in. But...the page lists all posts instead of all Topics. so there's really no need to click through since they're all right there in the list. Oh well. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

They all are, my friend. They all are. ☺️

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

I am located in Austin TX

We have some AI on here already, "why won't my car run as I think it should" 10 years going on 20.

I've looked into that. The costs into manufacturing it aren't light from What I've seen so far. I will have another look.

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930

My '77 has that wide B like you're talking about and I got one out of a '79 2+2 that I put in my '72 and am really happy with it. Never use 5th around here but it's a game changer on the interstate roads.

I could sure use a 3d print file for the vertical base part of the mirror

I thought that was the name of the Farmers union?

Nice and clean very pretty i just wet myself....

Post up the serial number and any information about mileage. And if it's complete: carbs, manifolds, air pump, etc. Might have value to somebody restoring an early 240Z. Also, on the 4 speed, whether or not it's a "monkey-motion" transmission or the later style. If it has the clutch parts too, that might help you sell it. Good luck.

Selling Datsun 240z rear taillight trim for $220 USD or $300CAD on ebay.ca. Listing: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/376366931004

I typed some of this into AI to see what it said, and it came back with a lot of stuff, but the main thing was: However, you can search for a compatible replacement. Look for a 4.1945 MHz (or 4.194304 MHz, which is a common close frequency, as 222/106approx4.194304) crystal oscillator with similar package, voltage, and output characteristics. You'll need to know the pinout of your existing oscillator if you want a direct drop-in replacement. You could measure the voltage on a working one to get that, but the other specs would be hard to get without a datasheet.

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

I have the paint code information and stuff. I didn't know if there was a report that showed all the stuff like the marti report out there or not. I have ran the vin on carfax and got all info that you are able to find out (maintenance, wrecks, title, inspection and stuff). It just doesn't show like this car is #1 of 1500 with this paint and trim.