Topics Last 30 Days

Circling back as I just wrapped this up. My air compressor was having some issues and wasn't very consistent, so I had to do some repair work on that. After getting that fixed, spraying a few more test shots it looked a lot better. Ended up taping up the underside of the car and plugged the frame rail fuel hose pass-through with a piece of fuel hose with some tape wrapped around it to block the holes. Ended up spraying 3 coats, waiting about 10 minutes between each coat and I'm very happy with the results. It ended up being quite close compared to what was there.

I did a quick alignment on the front wheels today I mounted the air dam up to the car and test fit the turn signals I worked on the chrome trim sweeps for the door glass but I need some pictures of how they mount. Even with the rear of the door shell? Rubber trimmed inside of the chrome frame? I assume I will have to trim the rubber in place otherwise you might trim the front angle in the wrong place

It’s possible to make them. We’ll just need the original OEM parts to create the molds.

I've got a few issues with my brakes, and would love some further help. I'm pretty confused at this point. Originally, I was having an issue where I would brake, but require a bit of pumping to slow down at higher speeds. I replaced the booster with a new one from Zcardepot, and bled the brakes and master cylinder. When I bleed the brakes, the pedal goes all the way to the floor, but once the system is closed up, I have extremely minimal pedal travel, with not much braking pressure (I assume because the booster pushrod isn't pushing all the way through the master cylinder). That said, I've adjusted my pushrod length, thinking that it was perhaps too long, causing the system to be preloaded. This caused the pedal to have a longer travel (barely), but had a significant dead zone before starting to slow down like it usually does (not much stopping force). I have Wilwood Forged Superlight front calipers with 2-piece rotors, Wilwood 4 piston rear calipers with functioning parking brake, Tilton adjustable brake proportioning valve. I'm using a wilwood tandem master cylinder. Not that it makes much of a difference, but I've got a Ford 302 motor, generating about 18 mmhg, plenty of vacuum for the booster. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas as to what might be going on? My only thought now could be a faulty master cylinder, but I'm 90% positive the seals are totally good there. Thanks in advance!

33

Thanks for sharing the PDF with the Datsun Torque Specifications. It'll come in handy for me.

Some noise.

Context? Where did that come from? It is Saturday night of course... 🤩

Hazard switch test: Remove the hazard switch. Use the ohmmeter function on the meter. (I hope it's not just a voltmeter.) Look at which pins correspond to the green/blue, green/red, and green black wires. Turn the hazard switch on. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/red wires on the dash harness. (Note, the switch may have wires with different colors.) Record the result. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/black wires on the dash harness. Record the result. Report the results of this test. Turn signal test: Put your meter on DC voltage. Reinstall the hazard switch and ensure it is off. Turn the key to ON. You don't need to start the car. Find the flasher relay that has a green/yellow wire and white wire running to it. Disconnect the flasher relay. Measure voltage to ground at the green/yellow wire. Record the result and report your reading.

A true beast, so very well thought out. Awesome work! Safari Gold rules!!!

Hi @HusseinHolland! Any updates on this project? Curious, if you finished the 350z tranny adaptation in your 1st gen.

It’s truly a journey. Been there and it takes awhile

There's also a keyway cut into the body. It was exposed once you took out the retaining bolt and the piece of metal that holds it in place. If you have a non-ZX transmission it sucks that it's on the top but you said you could turn it. It is a place that you could try prying... Honestly, I've never seen one stuck that bad - and we've seen a lot of transmissions over the years - even series one monkey shifters.

You are correct… That pan is thick aluminum and the baffles inside are just amazing. Not sure I will make it to the track. It’s a stage 4 build from Datsun Spirit. Eiji did an amazing job.

Wow! Thank you. I don't think I'll get a PDF unfortunately, but will get a Kindle version which is good... thank you so much.

I have dealt with dust boots on master cylinders like that in other applications and have sometimes had troubles getting them to fit through the hole in the firewall. Not sure if that's because they had swelled over time or if they were poor fitting aftermarket items. Bottom line? Maybe measure the hole in the firewall and see if you even have room for a boot in there before you scour the universe looking for one?

This topic has already been pretty thoroughly discussed by CZCC members. Here's a good place to start...

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_6508.jpeg James’ 1972 S30 is back on the road. At the heart of this beast is a turbocharged L-series managed by Haltech. Chassis upgrades include custom full-length subframe connectors, CD009a 6-speed transmission, KW Suspension, ZCG CV Axles and Big-Brake Kit (328mm) behind RS-8 wheels restored by Love20bee. Inside, a stack instrument cluster was integrated into the gauge pod, viewed from leather Recaro Pole Position seats: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG_6841-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG_6859-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/IMG_8391-1024x768.jpeg Enjoy the video of this boosted S30: View the full article

Try the Wix filter. I had no issues on my 78Z. I did install a S30.world tank as well.

I finally got around to installing my s30 world seals. Its definitely something you dont want to Rush and should bend the U shape carriers into semi final form first. And be careful as you can not to rip the top corner...mine is on and im as please as can be. I've tried every other seal out there and slam slam...not with these im so happy with them. Amazing product!

As @Zed Head said, pull the spayed ign. Off the terminal and measure the voltage. Black to Gand and red on the spade turn the key to start.

I think you are perfectly fine

Join the club and be a subscriber and that won’t be an issue. It’s keeping this site alive at this point. IMHO

I really hoped the holiday weekend might create distraction enough to get for a little better price...Not to be.. David Spillman