CanTechZ

Firstly, thanks for starting this body metal thickness topic. Interesting a couple of days ago I was looking up some fastener specs and came across some info regarding BW vs Unified threads. It seems that BW system predates unified, In the UK Joseph Whitworth was the first to develop a standardized fastener system. Decades later American William Sellers, building on the work of Whitworth, proposed the another standardized system that became the unified system we use today. His system was cheaper to manufacture, sacrificing some features relating to fatigue performance. Here is an interesting fastener history link: https://www.nord-lock.com/insights/knowledge/2017/the-history-of-the-bolt/

Here are a couple more pics, I'm slowly disassembling my 7'70 car. Hope they help

Definitely an off year for April fools, however a neighboring community sent out this, it didn't go over very well.... https://www.tricitynews.com/news/holy-crap-mixed-reactions-to-port-moody-s-april-fool-s-joke-1.24110569

Not weird at all. Here is a 11720-E4615 Fan belt that I purchased as a spare and have kept in the car since 1979. I even have the invoice.

Very cool Jim, she looked great even before the disassembly.

The brazed fix was done at the factory, my car #6521 has the brazed fix and single ribs as well. Here is a discussion about the early oil pans:

"COVID-19, and what to do about it" now this is what we should really be discussing here. I will list what I have been doing: - maintain physical distance when I must be out - politely correct people when making incorrect statements about this pandemic - politely remind others to maintain physical distance when I notice it not being followed - check on my elderly neighbors, or others that need help - offer help to friends and others I know that are in self isolation - follow the advice of medical professionals (not politicians) - minimize needless trips outdoors - thank the first responders, medical staff, shop people etc. that I meet/deal with I write this as I work from home and feeling lucky that I have a job. Hopefully I don't seem disingenuous. Mike

I don't know, or actually even care, who you believe to be trying to shut down your thread, for the record this is not my intent. I just want to remind all to be respectful and respect the code of conduct that we all have agreed to when we signed up for this forum. Stay safe Mike https://www.classiczcars.com/guidelines/

No where in our site guidelines (snippet attached) does it say that the Open Chit-Chat forum is exempt from the rules. I agree with @AZ-240z that we are treading a little to close to political bias with some posts, just my opinion.

Good to see the positive reviews. I would definitely be interested in a pair. Hopefully the Canadian dollar will have recovered somewhat by the time you have them available.

With regard to sound deadener, nothing wrong with using DynaMat, definitely not a sin. On my restoration I plan to use one of the more stock appearing solutions, but that will be a while into the future. You might also be interested in this thread if you haven't seen it:

3 = choke cable clip

My #6521 car also has the early heat shield, picture attached. I noticed that the retainers for the throttle return springs are lower on mine and the picture from Phillip than Jim's.

Here are a couple of old threads discussing early hoods, with pictures of the two early and later types.

Wow 310K, to put that in perspective one the guys I work with, pointed me to this. You could afford two of these and have cash left over. https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/ctd/d/burnaby-2016-mclaren-570s/7055577873.html

For reference my 7/70 car has the angled connectors for the rear window defrost wiring. Mid 1970 as suggested by @kats

@kats thanks for your opinion (I am in agreement) with pictures regarding the door panel screws, my car #6521 also has them. @christoffel With what has been discussed here and on BaT, I'm in agreement that it makes sense that these screws were added by the original dealers during the PDI process when it was deemed they were necessary. I mentioned on BaT that I would check the holes in my panels and doors as I recently removed mine, here is what I found. I have owned the car since 1978 and I would say this was the first time they had be removed. I base this on the fact there was remnants of plastic wrap on the door fasteners and top corners. Also the interior of my car was meticulously kept by the original owner. The holes appear to be in the same location as we usually see in pictures but there placement is similar but not exactly the same on the left and right doors, the hardware seems to be the same as others have described. It really has the appearance of "a fix" and not a designed production feature. It would make sense that dealers were advised of this potential issue and given a correct measure, this would explain why most cars we see have such a similar fix. Here is a good discussion on this subject and other interior topics: Cheers, Mike

The subject car just popped up on BAT. Already at 15K. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-124/

I also thought 5/70 was very early to be registered as a 1971, @87mj reminded me that it is not that uncommon, his being a 6/70 1971. Here is a topic about this subject, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62269-just-bought-a-1970-240z-but-titled-as-a-1971/

Here is my replacement tank, just recently removed. It has quite a high gloss compared to the suspension components. Replaced in 1985 at 134,600 miles and now has 147,600 miles, so only about 13,000 miles. $195 list price and I paid $156. Wondering now why I didn't stock pile more parts.

Beautiful car, with a serial number of 4684 and a production date of 5/70 wouldn't this be a 1970? Also wrong hubcaps and brake master cylinder. Why wait for the BAT auction to get the commentary going. Lol

Here is a link to a topic by a member here, who appeared for a short time in 2011, that has/had one of these with a trunk lid and other mods.

Here you go https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0120-405949/1977-datsun-280z-convertible/

Just checked my book shelf and I found that I still have a Haynes manual but it's older than yours, has only 240Z and 260Z content, no 280Z at all. However I found this on the Haynes website, it now lists the 280Z on the front cover. I wonder if they added more content. https://haynes.com/en-us/nissan/280z/1975-1978 This one has 256 pages, my old one has 229 pages. How many pages in yours? Cheers and Happy New Year Mike

Or better yet download one from right here, https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/