2ManyZs

Before you get too excited, which head is on the Turbo? The P90? The P-90 is already one of the best flowing heads due to it's being used with the Turbo, so if you are keeping th FI and Turbo, the E-31 won't help you much, if at all. Plus, with the Turbo, you're gonna run into trouble with detonation at 9:1 more than likely. 9:1 is right on the borderline with a Turbo. Which means even more work and money. You might be better off to spend your money on an intercooler.

If you have a turbo engine, you won't have to worry about the compression. The turbo engines have dished pistons and the compression will probably be more in the neighborhood of 9:1 with an E-31. No problems. According to the engine calculator, your compression should come in somewhere between 8-8.75:1 depending on which head gasket you use.

Hmm, it could be the coil that overheated and the spark you are getting just isn't hot enough to travel to the plugs. Or, one of the wires between the coil and dizzy got hot and is the problem. Before you pull the dizzy apart, I'd try another coil, if you have an extra one handy, even and old used one, and then double check all the wiring. Or, perhaps a new rotor and cap. Go with the simple,cheap things first.

I've had a couple of the MSA headers with no problems. I would, however, suggest paying the extra money for the ceramic coating. Not only will it look better and prevent it from rusting, it also helps cut down on the underhood temp somewhat. Never used the Targa or Monza exhaust so I won't give and opinion on that. I've only used MSA's "Turbo" 2 1/2 inch exhaust. No problems with that either. Unless you can find an exhaust specialty shop close by that can do the work locally. But be sure to look at some of their work before you commit. And ask them if they use mandrel bends, which is the preferred bending technique.

Make's ya wonder why you didn't do it yourself in the first place doesn't it? Looks good to me.....only thing I'd do is use something a little stiffer on the top of the IC to mount it... but you can go back and change that at any time....some 1/2 or 3/4 wide by 3/16 stainless flat from Lowe's or HD polished up would look great:classic:

Did you check your fusible links? Before you do anything else, check them and the starter relay. Hopefully, the fusible links are problem.

Most of the guys I know use a small bolt with some good sized flat washers on the bottom to keep it from tearing through the sheetmetal of the hood. Of course, it depends on where you mount it as well. You could use some fairly large rivets, with large flat washers on the bottom as well. Personally, I'd go with bolts, just in case they loosen over time or you need to take them off and re-use them, it would make it a lot easier with bolts.

So Ken, how did you fare in the show? Some of us have been dying to know.... Guess it's a good thing I didn't make it, bet you know where I would have been the whole time drooling eh? I would have had to wash the BSR cars a couple times.....

The aluminum one from MSA is nice, but the price is a bit steep.... you can buy one from Summit Racing for half the price of it and with a little work make it fit.... Believe the ones for Camaro's are just about the right size. There should be some other threads around here somewhere about aluminum rads that fit. Yeah, living down there with the heat and humidity is even worse than up here in the mountains....plus the traffic down there can be a killer. One reason I never liked driving down there, all it took was one fender bender near a tunnel and no one went anywhere....

They do, but Konig doesn't make them anymore. So, you'll either have to find a used set, or possibly find a new set on Ebay that pop up once in a while. Someone lists them on Ebay that bought up a bunch before they were discontinued and lists them occasionally. I saw a set on there about a week ago, but didn't save the link.

Believe me, this was not a normal summer. This was more like an extended spring this year. Next summer you'll probably be glad you have A/C as it usually is in the high 80's and 90's from mid June till the end of August, with a few 100 degree days thrown in for variety. Motorsport Auto has 3 row radiators for about 195.00 and their 4 rows are 245.00 I think, but you can usually catch them on sale and save a few bucks. They bolt right on, and except for the extra thickness, look like the stock radiators. I've used their 4 rows with good success. I raced a 280 with no fan other than a small electric one for idling around in the pits and on the grid, and while racing the temps stayed right around 190- 210. Carl is right, on the street a fan shroud will make a huge difference if you can find one in good condition. And do make sure to check over the fan clutch and re-fill it if necessary. What part of VA are you in?

In Va with A/C I would always go for at least a 3 row if not a 4 row. The radiator is fairly expensive, but it will give you piece of mind, and it's a lot cheaper than warping a head because you got stuck in traffic. The A/C condensor will block a good bit of airflow, so anytime you are running in slow moving traffic, it will be doubly important to have the most efficient radiator you can get. The only way I'd go with a 2 row is with an aluminum radiator which is a lot more efficient than the stock type radiator.

Wish we could all be so lucky...... I'd be happy if I could find just a rust free bare shell.

Well, I know a guy who can do miracles with an English wheel, so stay tuned. I know his work is in big demand because of his previous work, but if I can get him interested, I'm going to try to get him to make me a few or teach me how to do it..... Be better than sittin on my butt in front of the computer all the time... FWIW, he used to work for Boyd Coddington... so you know he's good.

Check out www.hybridz.org The site is dedicated to swaps like this. They have a complete forum dedicated to Nissan engine swaps. You'll find most anything you need to know over there... Over here we tend to stick to the straight sixes....

I think about the first one almost everyday...:disappoin

All I ask is a chance to prove that money can't make me happy. If the world was a logical place, men would ride horses side-saddle. A beggar asked me for 50 cents for a sandwich. I said, "First let me see the sandwich." What is a "free" gift? Aren't all gifts free? Teach a child to be polite and courteous in the home and, when he grows up, he'll never be able to edge his car onto a freeway. Two can live as cheaply as one, for half as long. Experience is the thing you have left when everything else is gone. When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to look like a nail. Diplomacy is the art of saying "nice kitty" until you can find a rock. A flashlight is a case for holding dead batteries. What was the greatest thing before sliced bread? My weight is perfect for my height - which varies. How can there be self-help "groups"? Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all"? If swimming is so good for your figure, how do you explain whales? Show me a man with both feet firmly on the ground, and I'll show you a man who can't get his pants off. Is it my imagination, or do buffalo wings taste like chicken?

I'd rather start with a non-rusted 1500 or 2000 dollar chassis than a 1000 dollar chassis that needed 1-2K in rust repairs... Yeah, 2K sounds like a lot, but as long as you don't have to worry about repairing rusted sheetmetal and spending a lot of money on labor to fix it if you can't do it yourself, you are way ahead of the curve. That's only my opinion.... but take it from me, buying a car for 750-1200 and thinking you can repair it, then realizing it's not worth the effort afterwards is wasted time and money. Granted, living on the east coast, where we see very few rust-free chassis, I'd give 2K for it, simply because I have all the parts it needs that were taken off rusted out hulks over the years so maybe my opinion is a bit off...:cross-eye

Err, you mean you aren't using a new locknut every time? That's one of the things the manual is pretty specific about....or should say, that's one thing the manual is pretty clear about, for a change....... I kinda like the way the early 240 5 speed is set up, they use a double nut, don't have to worry about staking it and having it come loose.....

Hopefully you don't work on the car after drinking the margaritas.... ROFL I've seen different kinds of spacers... just wondered if these were press-fitted over the "foot" or if it was loose.....

Guess we were both typing at the same time....:stupid: The only thing I would be concerned about at all would be if the gland nut were to be left loose or to come loose, is the "spacer" going to be able to move around under the cartridge? If it might, will it be so that the catridge is no longer fully supported or is the "spacer" fitted to the cartridge so that it can't move?

Steve, if you think about it, you can't use all the length piston...the bump stop you shouldbe using fits over the piston rod below the shoulder of the piston.... see what I mean? If you take the cartridge and put it in the strut housing, use a 2x4 across the top of the cartidge and compress it. If it stops before the shoulder at the top of the cartridge gets even with the top of the housing, you might have a problem. Now, it's highly unlikely you will compress the spring completely, but even if you do, you have the bump stop to keep the piston from bottoming...the only way the piston could possibly bottom out in the housing is if you completley compressed the spring and had no bump stop... then, it would be possible for the piston to bottom......If you didn't use a bump stop, you would run the risk of the top isolator beating on the top of the gland nut, which should keep the piston from bottoming in the cartirdge housing anyways.... See what I'm trying to say?

The manual I'm referring to is for the 5 speed... I had a friend of mine copy the pages from a dealers manual years ago when I bought a 5 speed "in a box".... and have never gotten around to trying to put the "puzzle" back together.... I've got an old Haynes manual that has a lot of good photos and description on how to assemble the FS5C71A trans. One thing they specify in the manual is that there are different thicknesses of the circlip that hold the rear bearing which would affect the bearing spacer and the clearance issue you are referring to..... wonder if that is the case with the later 5 speed as well....