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2ManyZs

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Everything posted by 2ManyZs

  1. Airjockie, I sent you a Private Message.
  2. I'm having a bit of difficulty obtaining a title to a GA car with no title as well. VA DMV is giving me the old run-around.... If I were you, I'd do one of two things. Put a mechanics lien/storage lien against the car, then, if it isn't claimed in a certain time limit (which it shouldn't be), your state will have to issue you a new title, and you can then correct the typo. Or, you might be able to claim the car as an abandoned vehicle.
  3. Pancho, do you have a part number on the ones you used? I see there's more than one choice when it comes to the knurl diameter.. some of the 1/2 studs are .530 or so up to a .680 knurl diameter.
  4. If I remember right, the last price Chloe at MidwestZ had on these before she went AWOL was $535 a pair, which was the lowest price of any of the US suppliers.
  5. Here's the 60mm which are the longest that Nismo offers... as you can see, the price is almost 62 per set, whatever they consider to be a set(4, 8 or 16) they are still a lot more expensive than say ARP 1/2 inch (10 for 20 bucks or so) would be from Summit Racing. http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=40222-RS025&submit=Search Here's the scan from the Nismo catalog with the dimensions...
  6. You can still get the Nismo studs but they aren't cheap.... :sick: Another alternative would be to use an SAE stud and just buy new nuts.... IIRC, a 1/2 inch stud is almost the exact same diameter, you just have to find the right knurl on the stud. Chino 240Z is doing this very thing at this time as far as I know, you might try him to see if he found the correct replacement....You can buy them for 20 dollars for 10, while the Nismo studs were about 5 bucks or more each the last I knew... :paranoid: BTW, I was just hoping you might be able to save those tires for something else or use them on another set of wheels that didn't require spacers.....
  7. I don't know that I would trust them. I've got a set of ARE wheels that have such a thick center flange that the stock studs and nuts are nearly the same as yours, without a spacer. I'd either use longer studs, or, if possible, use a slightly narrower tire to for clearance and get rid of the spacer (if that is possible). I'd want the end of the stud to at least be flush with the outside edge of the nut, to make sure all threads on the nut are engaged on the stud. I don't know how strict the vehicle inspections are there, but in VA that wouldn't pass. Mine only passed because the wheels had a screw on center cap that covered them, so without removing the cover, they couldn't see any of the studs/nuts.
  8. The 8 blade fan was part of the recall to cure the vapor lock problems with the 73's. Either one will work fine with a 3 or 4 row radiator. They'd work a lot better with a stock 2 row if you had a fan shroud. I doubt there's enough gain with the 8 versus 7 to make much difference, the biggest difference would be either a larger radiator core or a shroud.
  9. With a locked rear, you have way to much front spring, that I can say for sure. Locked rears will increase the understeer considerably, and with the 350 front springs, it's gotta be pretty bad. With what you have right now, I'd suggest buying a pair of 275-300lb springs and put them in the rear, and put the 250lb springs up front, then tinker with sway bar sizes to fine tune the handling.
  10. I think the Mallory part number is MAL-4763901
  11. I'd warn her not to do it unless you are there to lend a helping hand.... It's pretty straightforward, but that diff is pretty hard to handle for one person if the car isn't high enough. Best to use a floor jack under it, which needs an extra pair of hands to operate while one person steadies the diff, unless you have a set up like this one. http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm Look under Products.
  12. Craig, I hope Kaelin doesn't read this thread.... :devious: I can just hear her now......."Mom and Dad? Eewww, that's gross"...
  13. If the noise is coming from the inside of the diff, the only way to repair it is to pull it. You might be able to diagnose the problem by just pulling the rear cover, but you will need to drop the diff to repair it if it is a bearing or gear problem.
  14. Actually that's just about the going price right now. I bought a set for just a little over 500, and within a month or so the prices went over 800 a pair when the supply dried up. Now that there is a supply again, the prices seem to have leveled off around 520-545 a pair. Kinda like gas prices, once they go way up, when they finally settle down, the prices don't come back down to where the started from.... :paranoid: I guess we shouldn't complain too much, at least there is a supply again, unlike many other needed parts. Maybe one of these days, some of the parts that are in high demand will be available again.
  15. Possibly one reason they are not well known in the US (at least related to the early Z's) is because up until the "great multitudes of ricers" wanting them for their Honda's, Acura's etc no one ever took the time to explore the option of importing them? Or, perhaps the cost of importing them placed them at the high end of the price line and there was little interest. I looked at the prices on a couple of the web-sites after I did a search for them and found some of them to be about the same prices as a Quaiffe for some of their FWD applications. One site priced one of the 350Z units at near 800 dollars, and the other was just over 1K, which for that price, you can buy a Quaiffe for an R180. Of course, now that the Nismo units are becoming so scarce, these look like a good alternative (if you can find more for the R-180's and R-200's) since the prices of most of the LSD's are spiralling upward for a lot of older RWD cars. It wasn't all that long ago the prices of the Nismo units was in the 500 dollar range.
  16. Probably an "Ebay newbie" who didn't pay attention to what he was doing when he left the feedback. :stupid:
  17. I think you just found your own problem.... Without the cup on the end, you aren't getting the shift forks to go thru the whole travel, leaving the sliding clutch not fully engaged in the gear you select, when you let off the throttle, the friction is lost which allows the sliding clutch to disengage. You really need that cup on the end of the shifter, not only so the shift forks are going thru their full travel, but also to keep it from being metal to metal at the end of the shifter which is gonna wear it out in short order. If the cup is too thick at the bottom and you can't line up the pivot pin in the shifter, you could probably sand off a little of the cup on the bottom where it sits into the shift rail. I've never had a problem with any of the bushings like what you describe, maybe I've been lucky... :surprised Although there were times when I had to jam it in gear to get the pivot pin to line up with the shifter pivot.
  18. If you look, the positive feedbacks she received were for auction that ended back in June/July and feedback wasn't left for her until August. Chloe hasn't left any feedback since July 28th. If Ebay recieves a few more complaints, I'd be willing to bet the store will be closed and whoever or "whatever" is running the show will be looking for another outlet.
  19. ZeddFindings has replacement rails as well as Motorsport Auto. Slightly heavier gauge steel than the originals. They replace everything from the radiator support back to the firewall, but not the section below the rail where the T/C rod mount is or aft of the mount. http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm Most parts cars won't have any better condition rail than what you have now.
  20. I had never heard of them until now, and it seems like they are mostly geared towards FWD differentials. http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html It's just a clutch type LSD, so it really is nothing special, at least compared to a Quaiffe and the prices seem to be a the high side for a clutch type as well. You might have a hard time getting parts for it, not only because they all have to be imported, but also because RWD isn't their main target market.
  21. I'm in the same spot you are Will, whoever is running the show out there now is not someone I want to do any business with in the future if this is how they are going to conduct themselves. When parts started getting re-listed, I figured someone was actually in control and one of the parts was on my "must have" list.... I'm about to file my complaints and leave negative feedback as well. Shame to have something like this happen and no one knows what is going on.... or any word on Chloe. :tapemouth
  22. Before you pull anything apart, just for the heck of it, you might want to double check your shifter bushings and the pin that holds the shifter in place. Little bit of play in one or both, and you won't be putting it fully in gear. I've even seen on shift lever that had worn enough that it needed to be replaced. Not only at the pivot, but at the bottom as well can wear. There's so many little things that can cause this, it's almost impossible to figure it out till you open it up, worn shift rail, bent roll pins, the list is a pretty long one.
  23. The little raised tabs in the second pic are where the rubber straps hook to hold the jack in place. The straps have a rectangular "hook" on each end that slip under the end of the tabs.
  24. 2ManyZs

    help

    That is Pete Paraska's car. You'll find him over on the Hybrid forum. His web-site is http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/
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