2ManyZs

The best thing about a Z is the fact you can make it handle any way you prefer. There's plenty of aftermarket suspension systems and parts that are available today and they aren't as expensive as suspension parts for other cars. Probably the best comparison for the Z in the Porsche line is the 944, which the Z can equal in performance with a little bit of work. You won't have the straighline speed of the later 994 or 968 Turbo's, but the Z can stay with it when comparing handling. Actually, the Z is probably a lot better handling car than a lot of the 911's, especially the earlier models. 911's have a lot of peculiar handling quirks due to the rear engine design, and only a select few can really use the 911 to its utmost abilities. Later 911's, starting in the mid to late 80's have less of these "scary" tendencies than the earlier models thanks to a lot of factory upgrades to addres the trailing throttle oversteer. For 90% of the drivers, a Z will be the easiest car to go fast in right off the bat, especially those who want to do it on a reasonable budget.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to make it even though I've been looking forward to it since last year....:disappoin I guess there's always TN in 2005...

Since you seem to have checked almost everything already on the fuel side... maybe it's time to step back and look in a slightly different direction. Have you checked the air gap on the ignition? Have you replaced the plug wires recently? Then there is always the slight possibility that the charging system is not charging at it's full capacity and the ignition is performing 100%... Kyle might have hit on a key here as well, it could just be tired, weakened valve springs..... I'm still somewhat baffled by the way it acts with the air filter housing in place....

No matter what they put for light on the front of it, it still doesn't look any better.....:cross-eye Like it better in the night shot....:devious:

Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder a 1/4 turn or less and then pump the pedal a couple times. Opening it just slightly leaves a little resistance in the system and will help force any trapped air out of the slave. Once you have that done that, you can then open the bleeder on the slave a little more and if the air is gone, the system should bleed the the rest of the way by gravity.

You can also try Dave Turner Motorpsorts at www.daveturner.com I'd be willing to guess the C8's in 16x7 will be well over 300 each..... The regular Panasports in this size are in the 250 each neighborhood.... :cross-eye

Not sure if it's the fuzzy pic or not, but it looks like the rockers extend lower than the production cars.' And, I don't see an inspection lid that ought to be sticking straight up with the way the front is buckled...... BTW, Kats I like the wheels, it's a shame they didn't put them on all the cars instead of the plain steel wheels with the hubcaps... are these similar to the ones on the 432R in you photo on another post or and I seeing things?

The blue car I was referring to is the Export Model car.. guess they hadn't gotten around to changing the taillights for the show, or it wasn't intended for the US..

yeesh.. I know a car like that would never make it in the US.. can't imagine anyone wanting to be sandwiched in between a Cadillac Escalade and a Ford Excursion on the highway while the SUV drivers are talking on the cell phones and disciplining the kids in the third row seat......:cross-eye It ain't fair Daniel, you sound like you're having way too much fun over there......Meet up with Doehring yet for a ride on the Autobahn?:classic:

It just struck me as a bit odd after seeing your pic you posted of the blue Fairlady in another thread... the blue car had one that said 240Z and was shaped similar to what our early cars came with and the 432R had the round one but also had the hatch vents...so, the 432R had emblems that said FairladyZ on the front fenders and on the rear only correct? Oy, too many differences to keep track of them all.....:cross-eye

Alan or Kats... I noticed something in the picture of the 432R from the rear... It has the later style C-pillar emblem that covered the C-pillar vent, yet it seems to also have the vent grilles on the hatch... Was this something only seen on a 432R or is this another of those mysterious oddities?

What I see are the 3 "gills" for the vent on the C-pillar or is that tape or painted on......hard to tell with all the stickers on it... and the stamped steel mag wheels... course, they may have had them elsewhere but the US only got the plain steel wheels..:disappoin Kinda like the way the wheels look BTW, with a set of trim rings they'd be kinda neat... Other than that, it's kinda hard to tell anything considering the condition of it...

Hmm, your car had a PO just like mine did then..... didn't take of the bumpers, or any of the trim when changing the color.. at least yours is close to the same color.. mine went from silver to, well, I'm not sure what color it really is but it ain't silver....:cross-eye

And people want to see what I have stashed away in my garage....Carl has me beat by a wide margin.....:disappoin

Bet you didn't realize how much the paint had faded till you took off the marker light did ya Victor? One of the perils of taking off emblems and such.....:cross-eye :disappoin Give ya 20 bucks to polish my pickup.....

For those of you who are still looking for one, I found these on Ebay today, the seller has 5 listed. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=ma_nny&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

Well, at least I'm not the only one that has done something like that....... :devious:

12mm x1.25 is the correct size lug nut. I usually get mine at the local Advance store, they usually have them in packs of 4, just make sure you get the right ones for the way your wheels are designed. Not all wheel use the conical style nuts.....

Only way it would be in "as new condition" is if it had never been out of the box or had any coolant in it. There will always be some corrosion as antifreeze has more than one corrosive ingredient...whether it's from contact with outside air or steel, aluminum, or copper. All in all, I'd say it's possible it is new and that is just corrosion from having anti-freeze in it for a long period of time.

I don't have any spares to sell, but FWIW, buying a used one may not last as long as you'd like..... You should be able to buy a new one for under 100 bucks.... try MidwestZ? I do know Andy Russell sells them for 80 dollars according to his last price list he sent me... but, I'd imagine Chloe can sell it for about the same price and you'll get a members discount to boot....

I've had a car fall off the floor jack once or twice, once had it fall off the jack as the jack was sinking into the hot pavement of the driveway and started falling over...:stupid: Haven't had one fall off the jackstands... yet.... I always buy the jackstands with the widest bases as I can find so maybe that's why I've been lucky so far... Now I know why you asked me about the pic of my car on the stands.... Glad you didn't get caught under it.... I once knew a guy who had a 68 Nova fall off the jack stands while he was under it changing the oil... luckily for him, the frame of the car came down right across his chest. He layed there for 30 minutes waiting for help and held the car on his chest the whole time..... needless to say he was a guy no one wanted to annoy...:devious: Worst, or silliest thing I've ever done, was taking a transmission out of a Z while lying on a creeper. I let the transmission down onto my chest and thought I'd just roll out from under the car and then lay it on the garage floor..only bad part with that idea was after I had it on my chest, I realized I didn't have the car high enough for the transmission to go under the floor of the car...:stupid: so that meant, I had to try to get it off my chest while making sure I could keep the trans in the tunnel so I had room enough to get it off me so I could get out.:cross-eye :stupid:

Looks like a your camber plates are the same as what I have from Ground Control, so they may be from the same supplier or a copy of the same.

They don't look too bad.. but they have so much offset I'd think you would have to run wheel spacers or you would end up with the rim touching the springs or spring perches....Probably like the ones Modern Motorsports sells so you can fit "Honda type" fwd offset wheels... You would almost have to buy them, then the spacers and measure them after you install them before you could determine what width tire would fit according to how much clearance you have.

Yup, you're right... my 71 FSM does show a pic that it looks to be bare steel or at least not black..Forgot all about that pic...:stupid: I do know that the one off the 75 I had that I think I threw away:stupid: :cross-eye was black.. and one of the 240's I had had a black one on it, but that would have been either a 72 or 73.. been too long ago to remember, and it could have been painted by a PO.... Sorry, my faux pas....

The oil pump should be primed.. but the only real way to do that right it to dissasemble the pump and put some light oil or assembly lube on the rotors of the pump. Another thing to consider would be the oil pump pressure relief valve... I'm just thinking of the obvious "slap yer forehead" kinda things we sometimes forget...