Jump to content

SCCA_racer

Members
  • Content Count

    129
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About SCCA_racer

  • Rank
    Registered User

Social Contacts

  • Website
    http://members.rennlist.com/magisterc

Contact

  • Map Location
    Austin
  • Occupation
    Teacher

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    1977 280Z ITS Racecar
  1. SCCA_racer

    Who has the fastest 240Z?

    Mark, The car sounds phenomenal, but doesn't sound like much of a Z anymore. You have a Z body and a collection of Z parts hanging around, but it sounds like you have a custom drag car that happens to remain street legal. This is totally an opinion thing, but without a Z motor, tranny, suspension, or frame you would have a tough time claiming a Z pedigree. Sounds like big fun and lost of suprises for anybody that thinks they will give you a run on the street. ciao Bryan
  2. SCCA_racer

    Who has the fastest 240Z?

    Tell us what you mean by SBC? 350, 383, 400? Unless you are making some SERIOUS hp those numbers seem almost impossible, though it does look like you are also developing some pretty serious traction. Congrats, you are well on your way to having the quickest street driven hybrid Z. Bryan
  3. SCCA_racer

    Who has the fastest 240Z?

    Well, the fastest Z I have seen and ridden in must be Steve Webb's "stealth Z" up in Dallas. The car is a 71 with a 280 ZXT motor. Last time I saw the car it was in the 400 hp 400 ft lb neighborhood and has always been an ongoing project. Maybe a member in Dallas has seen the car more recently. For all I know it has been destroyed by its prodigous power and insuffucient traction. It was a beast and was capable of keeping up with modified single turbo Supras and wicked 300ZX TT's. I could not find any timeslips but there is lots of info at http://zhome.com/rnt/StealthZ/swebbA1.htm A nice example of keeping a straight six and getting CRAZY power.
  4. SCCA_racer

    roll cage engine compartment

    What is the purpose of the bar going forward from the fender liner to the rail? I see that it would stiffen the rail, but what load is applied at the end of the rail other than impact? Never mind, I see the sway bar mounts now. Sorry.
  5. SCCA_racer

    Kill-switch

    The switch has 4 terminals, not positions. One set is for killing the battery one set is for killing the alternator. The switch is rated for the application. I forget, but the peak load rating is ridiculous. If you use an applciation that allows you to zoom in, the image is legible. thanks for trying, Bryan
  6. SCCA_racer

    Parts Score!

    My 70's era Porsches also have this. It is not meant for a cruise, but allows you to set a higher idle while the engine warms up. I have heard of people using them as a cruise control, but I believe that the Porsche spec is that it should cuase the engine to idle at 3500 rpms warm with no load. I doubt that would be much help as a cruise control. Congrats on the find! Bryan
  7. SCCA_racer

    Kill-switch

    I am upgrading my race car from a 2 pole to a 4 pole kill-switch. The switch comes with diagrams for a one wire or a field alternator style of installation. Difference being that one breaks the connection from the field wire to the positive pole of the battery with its auxiliary terminals while the charge wire is interrupted by the break in the main fuse block. The other interrupts the charge wire to positive pole only and omits the field wire. Am I missing out and this is just showing me how two different alternators will be wired? It would appear if this is the case that I need the field wire style. Am I right? There are two diagrams but NO instructions or explanations with this thing and I don't want to ruin anything or burn up my car before I get it back on the track. I have attached a pic of the diagrams. Thanks Bryan
  8. SCCA_racer

    4 pole kill switch

    I am upgrading my race car from a 2 pole to a 4 pole kill-switch. The switch comes with diagrams for a one wire or a field alternator style of installation. Difference being that one breaks the connection from the field wire to the positive pole of the battery with its auxiliary terminals while the charge wire is interrupted by the break in the main fuse block. The other interrupts the charge wire to positive pole only and omits the field wire. Am I missing out and this is just showing me how two different alternators will be wired? It would appear if this is the case that I need the field wire style. Am I right? There are two diagrams but NO instructions or explanations with this thing and I don't want to ruin anything or burn up my car before I get it back on the track. I have attached a pic of the diagrams. Thanks Bryan
  9. SCCA_racer

    Hood pins

    Sorry to hear that you aren't " that far yet"! I looked at my 280 and it looks like the radiator support may be high enough to make a decent mount. That was one concern. I may give it a go, but want to get the big issues resolved before I start "tweaking". BTW I used bolts to mount the reinforcing tabs and they worked well. Just need to make sure that they don't align with the path of the pin, or that the heads are short enough not to interefere. Bryan
  10. SCCA_racer

    Hood pins

    That is a really cool idea! Do you have your front pins mounted on the upper radiator support? I may give this a try now that I have an idea of how to battle some of the downsides of using just pins.
  11. SCCA_racer

    Hood pins

    I have kept mine hinged, but my main concerns is not pin location, but securing the reinforcement disk. It has been suggested that I use small machine screws or bolts. This seems sensible. I located my rear pins in the same location as the car you sent. It allows you to take advantage of the reinforced corners of the hood as well as the lip that already exists makes a good mounting location for the pins themselves. I did have to grind off the bosses where the hood stops had previously screwed in so that I could mount the pins in almost that exact location. Good luck. I will shoot some pics of mine when it is done. Bryan
  12. SCCA_racer

    Hood pins

    I had several grid workers require me to re-latch my hood when it was just riding on the catch. The rules don't say how it must be attached, but the hood pins give me the control I want. If need be I can raise the pins to get the semi-popped effect of the safety catch with the certainty of being fully secured. It certainly was never a safety issue, but tech can vary wildly depending on the person and their mood. As to whether it helps... I have a later car so I already have hood vents. I would guess that Datsun did this to improve cooling, but I am not sure if the location of the vents versus having the trailing edge popped up in a high pressure area makes a big difference. I know that running the car static with just a large shop fan on the radiator that having the hood up seems to make little difference on the heat in the engine compartment, but aerodynamics are totally different there. Good luck, maybe a louvered hood is your answer (or a later style hood) Bryan
  13. SCCA_racer

    Subtle Z Kit

    That might be an SCCA E-prod car. If so it maight not stay there. :^(
  14. SCCA_racer

    Sweet 280ZX!

    I think he meant that it is a Z and not a ZX. It sure does not look like it has the B pillar of a ZX.
  15. SCCA_racer

    Hood pins

    I am installing Hood pins on my 280 (in the steel hood) and was wondering how most people install the discs that reinforce the panel? I was considering sheet metal screws or rivets and was looking for some opinions. Thanks Bryan
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.