madkaw

Dialed in my Schneider cam and boy my arms are tired! Also dropped off my subby STI diff-flange to be redrilled to accept my driveshaft- can you say LSD! Squeezed in some time on my Mikuni CAI

Mitchell, Beautiful set-up and congrats. I have set of 40's sitting on a shelf waiting to go on!! I am trying to be patient and doing all my tuning with my SU's, but I truly believe the SU's in stock form do not breathe enough air for a modified air-simple in air-out air physics. Yes SU's can supply plenty of fuel(based on my wideband), but not enough CFM. I would strongly recommend a wideband for realtime readings instead of reading plugs. It will be much easier for you to tune and you might be suprised how rich or lean you really are. I am waiting to finish my cold air box before installing mine. I am trying to concentrate on eliminating the fuel rail next to the valve cover and having cold air into these carbs. Now we need a good in-car video of your car so we can hear them babies sucking air!! Again-nice job.

Reread this thread and the other thread going on right now on the site about the part numbers-they're all there. Order from your local Nissan dealer and pick them up or I have had good results with Courtesy Nissan. They stock a lot of older parts and will ship to your door. You'll need the bushings and two different washers-three separate part #'s

Mike, so your installer is the same? If it is just let me know your paypal and I will send you money so you can ship it to me!! I had just sent off a e-mail to Kevin, to ask to borrow his tool, but be glad to send you postage money and I will definitely send it back when I'm done.

Looks a 1000 times better-great job. Now help get that tool

Do you think Kevin would lend,borrow, sell, that tool??? It would save a lot of time and hassle for me to just use his tool to get the job done. If there is any way you can help make this happen I would appreciate it.

I am so freakin jealous! Two cars I love on the same track running against(sort of) each other. I can't wait to get some track time.

what he said

Thanks for the heads up on the washers. Just called Nissan and straightened things out.

Put your numbers in Mike and they come up under courtesy as stoppers at 10$ each - ouch! Didn't say upper or lower, but I assume they are the same and I will 4'of them

Bushing is 554756-4300, so the numbers are different

It was an error that I removed the bushing shell, so now I will have to finish the deal. I was running urethane before this on my r200 and it wasn't too bad. I think it does have a lot to do with the diff. I would prefer quiet but less work:) Mike that part number looks like the bushing part#. I might need to call courtesy. This STI diff swap is turning into more work than I planned- but doesn't everything

Mike, So the washers also have rubber embedded in them? I'm not sure what I am seeing there. Damn, I wish I hadn't removed the bushing now and went urethane. If you have that part# for the washer I would appreciate it. Looking at your finished product I think I would want the flange to lay flatter, but your right-it probably won't go anywhere. I am thinking of trying a truck repair shop since these type bushings would probably be more common there or a suspension shop that installs suspension bushings. These bushings remind me of the bushings that were installed in my old 1969 chevy c-10 trailing arms-which I made a bushing installer out of some pipe.

I like the thread on hybridz that utilizes the Subaru rack and ps complete. Being an owner of a 96 impreza I am impressed with the steering of it's powered rack. It would be the cheapest alternative- but not the easiest. I have a spare front crossmember and have started my venture in that direction.

Compare notes, but two different situations regarding fuel. Land mizzle isn't running rebuilt carbs! So when you say it doesn't want to rev beyond 4500- what is it doing? Can you be more descriptive ? Does it sputter, miss out, slowly fade, drop off and pick right back up. Be as precise as you can with words

Well I am going this route myself as far as replacing bushing with OEM. My question is about the hardware. Since it was so long ago that I had a moustache bar with the stock bushing I can't remember what hardware(washers,etc..) is used when installing the bar. My urethane kit for my last r200 bar had huge washers on either side of the bushings, but I don't think that is the case with the stock bushings. Any help-pics

Where did it end up in Indiana-maybe Ill see it around!

Sorry, I guess that sounded bad-- didn't it. Okay, well you need to start over and make sure you have covered the basics(loose electrical connections,good battery, charging alternator, good fuel flow). I am usually the first to say -look at the carbs last-but the symptoms warrant another look. Yes the lids are a pain in the a$$, but once you remember how to twist and tilt and turn the bowl lids, it gets much easier. Regardless of the setting you have right now on the floats-adjust them richer. If you go too rich you will know right away when you get it running again-it will be obvious!! Hope this helps

I doubt the points has anything to do with this problem or the engine wouldn't rev up freely with no load-forget that stupid tester. Just make sure your connections are tight on all your wiring. You seem to have the problem under heavy load which requires a strong spark and more fuel. You need to stop whining and pull the float covers off and adjust them floats. It's not that hard once you get the hang of getting the covers off-are we talking 45 minutes? Make sure you are tweaking them the correct way. Did you check the advance yet????? Does the car hesitate or bog UNDER LOAD at any other rpm less than 4500--i.e. pulling up a hill hard in the gas???? =coil

To check your mechanical advance just aim your timing light to your marks on the pulley and hold throttle to atleast 2800 rpm. You might need to make additional marks on the pulley( 6mm is about 5 degrees) . Your mechanical should kick in atleast another 15 degrees from static- maybe 20+ with that dizzy. If the timing doesn't increase this much, then your advance maybe jammed up. I would also invest In a new coil just to eliminate this from the equation. And the correct ohm coil so you can eliminate more stuff like that ballast resistor

Bruce-you crack me upLOL

More than likely it is the rear brakes that will give excessive brake travel. Recheck your adjustment. You might have thought you had the shoes seated properly, but once engaged they seated and caused extra brake pedal travel. Usually pumping will regain this travel-so revisit your rear brakes

Thank you for finishing the thread. We see a lot of threads where folks are stumped and then never hear results if fixed. I have made more stupid mistakes than I can count when working on a car. The problem usually is simple, but that's how we learn, so thanks for sharing your mistake!!

That's an incredible amount of work to do-you truly are determined. I am kind of suprised you are getting away with such little work on the floors since everything else seemed so rusted. keep up the good work.

Sorry Bruce, his symptoms sound like bad float adjustment. Seems like we have had quite a few of these threads lately. Check visually like Bruce stated. Could be a weak charge at the plug. Make sure your getting close to 14 volts while running at the battery. Also check anything related to fuel supply- filters, lines