madkaw

I don't believe the FSM specifies hot or cold check on chain stretch. It would be worth to check while your in there, but it isn't your problem. If it's close, I would bump it up to the #2 notch. I don't see any ill effects, just benefits from advancing your valve timing slightly. Glad to hear about the hoses. Mine were soft too---too soft and they kinked with the movement of the choke.

Stephen, forget about the timing chain-that's not your issue. Now valve adjustment is a possibility. Did you check the float bowl hoses-the ones that supply the fuel to your carbs from the bottom of the float bowls? Don't mean to harp on the hoses, but can't remember if you said that you checked them-because they have been a problem from z therapy. They collapse or kink and cut-off the fuel or part of the fuel to the carbs. It's hard to see -you almost have to go by feel. And verify for me that have NOT changed your float settings yet during this thread. If you have NOT, you need to make that your next adjustment. Oh and happy holidays!!!!!

I was asking 200$ since it is all cleaned up and painted and has all the studs and nuts and stub axles. I might be able to help with shipping since you leave fairly close.

I've got a really quiet r200 that I'm selling- I'm going with a subaru diff. My diff is a 3.54

Usually plug wires give you problems under heavy loading- like climbing a hill in forth gear. As far as cam- more likely out of adjustment than anything . Well you get this figured out you will definitely know your car better The reason I asked what dizzy was to see how much vacuum advance your dizzy adds. At this point during you troubleshooting with the timing I would leave it disconnected.

Stephen, just out of curiousity, what is the model # on your dizzy. Should be engraved somewhere on the side.

That's what I was saying Stephen, these cars can be way different in running characteristics even with the same engine or year. Motormans engine is using a ZX dizzy which has a different curve than yours Stephen. Enough that the two motors would run different. I hope you can compare and find something, but if something is working for you keep going that direction. Stephen, did you check your dizzy cap for cracks?

The videos always amplify the valve noises, so they always sound bad on you tube.

I wouldn't worry about what others are running, just what works well with your engine. All these engines are different and hard to compare. 40 years and many owners and too many swaps and changes makes it hard to compare for BEST performance. Biggest thing to worrry about is detonation. I'm running 38 total, but that would apply to your engine more likely

I checked my carb balance and verified it was good at both idle and 3000 rpm. Next I set the A/F mixture knob to two turns form full lean. Third, I started it up and found the highest rpm at 1.5 turns out form full lean, so I leaned it out a half turn. Sounds like your at 1 turn only-that's probably not enough-I would richen her up. Steve-maybe I shouldn't have bashed the SM needles so much, it probably is not the issue here. I just know that the stock needles are more than ample for the L24. Your car definitely has the pcv system. Just make sure the pcv valve that is attached to your balance tube moves freely and none of your lines are obstructed

Glad to hear that the ignition timing made a change. If it were me and this was helping to fix the problem, then go with it. Put more advance in and don't worry about the vacuum advance. Listen for the knocking and keep advancing to see if it eliminates the your popping. As far as the 47 degree figure, that would be with total timing INCLUDING vacuum advance and you would only see that at light cruise. I would shoot for the high 30's with your light, with the vacuum advance REMOVED, and high enough rpm for the all of your mechanical advance to be in. I will also agree that a slightly out of tune shouldn't cause your problem, but what if your recurved dizzy has a problem that amplifies an out of tune issue. Anyway, advance away and keep an hear out for knock.

Well Jon, you just kind of confirmed everything I sent to Dave in a PM. I mentioned unshrouded based on what i have read from Racer Brown articles-that basically every head shoud be unshrouded for breathing purposes. Also for the fact that if larger valves are possibly installed and if the head needs to be resurfaced that unshrouding won't hurt -just help. Glad you weighed in on the OP theory. Still like to see his results from a mixed batch of engine parts!!! Couple of pics for you Dave

Dave, I'm a little suprised these terms baffle you as much as you have been on this site. Not being critical and also very thankful for all your contributions to the Z world, just suprised . Anyway we have kind of stomped all over this thread and not sure if you should start another for advice. i will PM you

Sounds like my set-up Dave. I would also recommend going with the biggest cam you can go with running FLAT TOP pistons-maybe even bigger then stage 3, but check your clearance, you might need to clearance your pistons. Not sure what dished pistons you would put in there to match your head- unless you had some custom slugs to match the chambers of your n42. Where's the original e-88? Don't forget to notch your piston bores!!!!! and unshroud the heck out of your head. I put my car on the dyno at Zcon and it was 155 HP and torque. Timing was conservative and the SUs were terribly out of balance and both rich and lean. It was 100 degrees outside. I'm thinking around 175 properly tuned- maybe better.

There is some guy on hybridz that was selling e-88 heads for 25$ each and that would be original.

Not sure what your saying here??? Flow out the cam oilers improved(what do you mean by cam oilers?). I would associate cam oilers with the spray bar-but you say you removed it. Oil shot out of the cam holes in my experiment. I was kind of suprised the pressure of the oil coming out. Don't remember how long recovery time was as far as getting oil back up to pressure. I know it took a major drill to do this experiment.

I did enlarge the oil passage. I handed the how to modify book to my engine builder and he followed all the suggestions- including that one. Steve, working off of a I phone so not any good at copying links. I found it by searching 'spray bar'

Search- cam oil investigation

Your probably better off with just the internally oiled. Somewhere in the archives here I have a thread where I experimented using both I couldn't get it to work. The internally oiled cam seemed to rob too much oil from the spray bar and the oil spray didn't even reach the lash pads. I'd like to know how rebello got both to work and proved they both worked

My wifes Forester!!

Steve, I believe he was refering to the cam timing. Deadflo, might want to start your own thread to get help diagnosing your problem.

Really guys, I think you need to cut Ted some courtesy here. Very few posts, but a well thought out question and it's obvious he has done his homework. He was specific in his question and knows Z motors, he didn't ask something dumb like"what do is the timing set at on the L24". He searched!!!! "yawn"-really, I agree with Ted here, not everyone is building race engines, but we are all about learning something different. With your wealth of knowledge John you could have easily been more constructive.

What engine do those rods come from in your proposal?

It sounds like a cool project. There will be the folks who say it's crazy to destroke a l28, but it has been proven that it's not all about displacement. It's more about tuning and building it right. Compression can be maintained if the details of squish are observed. I think it's a harder way to make power as far as a destroked motor, but it makes for interesting read!!!

Thankyou for correcting me Leon.