madkaw

The timeline gives some basic numbers, but not nearly as accurate as Carls description. I'm pretty sure my 9/71 has the early small chambers. It might be the last month for that design.

Gnose, Any pics on the modification of the insulator. Slotting alone only netted me about 1 degree- another degree and my 245's might clear!!!!!!

Sure it's not a grounding issue with the light assembly?

Using stock springs will only allow about 3/4. Negative camber - thats all the more room there is unless you can bring out the bottom . The stock control arms are actually very strong, so dont under estimate the strength needed of the control arms. Like said before - Hybridz is a good source for info.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap. The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps. I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Not only U-joints, you should check the condition of the spline and ball bearings. probably not using the proper terminology, but anyway, ... put the halfshaft body in a vise securely, then extend the inner shaft out and try and work it up and down. There should be no play, if there is, you need to find some better shafts. Someone might have a good method for checking U-jonts off the car.

That's funny- hopefully she will warm up to the Z. Most women still enjoy all the ATTENTION. It gets. Glad to hear you got a good deal

Maybe had a r200 in there?

Thanks JC . The noise is a cross between whine and rubbing- hard to describe- but increases with speed. I am changing the diff as we speak to eliminate that.

Maybe you should nick name your car Patches- Nice work

Geezer said it all. If you pay to have it fixed and it needs replaced- find a used one and bring it to the body guy.

I would avoid buying the replacement panel from MSA and trying to replace. Try and get the panel straightened if at all possible. If needs to be replaced - buy one that has been cut off of a Z.

Trying to do some searching on proper moustache position for the diff based on model years. There has been a lot of threads on the diff whine -especially with the early models with the r180 diff. I guess I have read that the moustache bar was actually was flipped around to pull the diff back to line up the halfshafts(make them more perpendicular to the diff) to help with diff noise. Looking at the 8/71 in my garage the halfshafts do angle a lot from the diff -BACK- to the axles. It would seem that if the bar was flipped the angle would be much closer to 90 degrees. On my car 9/71, I can't recall what was the stock position. I do have a r180(subaru r180) in my car and I set mine up very close to 90 degrees, I am running a RT mount. No diff noise-but it is from a 2003 STI:) anyone have knowledge on such subject???

OMG yes-can you say VACUUM LEAK

I don't see a hose on your PCV-is that the way you are running it?

...and yours looks to have equal length primaries!!

Lesson to be learned here-check and double check the basics first before going crazy on the troubleshooting.

I usually don't have much good to say about MSA products, but the ceramic header got from them fit pretty well. The flange was the same thickness as the intake, and the coating seems to be holding up well. Also didn't have any clearance issues. Not equal length, but 300$.

Removing the steering wheel, heater control panel helped make this easier, plus gave additional areas to help clamp in place. The Hazard switch is a PITA to get back in afterwards! Be prepared to use a heat gun to make this fit snug. Finding a good method to clamp down the top of cover is essential. Use the original defroster panel to put pressure on the lip of the cover. Once I had it snug up top, it seemed to fit better everywhere else. Don't try to apply pressure anywhere else on the top except for on the lip-the dash cover is not supposed to rest on the main surfaces. There is an air gap between most of the surfaces-that's why the instructions tell you to only glue the edges. The glove box door barely fits unless you use the heat gun to flatten the edges. Be super cautious with the heat gun. Set at lowest settings and stay at least 2-3 inches from the plastic. Touch the plastic thru process to see how hot it's getting. The plastic retains heat, so additional heatings will take less time. The dash cover sticks out enough that the clamshells(steering column) are hard to get back on. I actually had to trim the back edge of the top clamshell to get it to fit. This is not a 2 hour job, so figure on a very full day or two. I can see how there might be difficulty in getting the speedo out if the cover is not laying flat on the dash. I think with some heat, you can persuade the cover to lay flat out of the way.

I'd stay away from the 42 with flattops. Anything else will work- and there is no downside with the 79 liners

Not bad. Need to paint the glove box door

Also check the float bowl hoses. Reach under there and make sure the small hose that runs from the float bowl is not kinking in anyway. It will be hard to see so you will just have to feel your way around. I mention this because I ordered some from z therapy and the hoses seemed to want to kink easy -thus shutting off fuel.

This is good-process of elimination. This helps I narrow down things to give you more specific advice. Do you have a synchronizer for the carbs? Get the compression check done. Timing check too! You need to check timing at idle and at least 2500rpm to make sure your mechanical advance is working. Make sure you get a voltage check at the battery WITH the car running.

They got the plug out and replaced it under warranty. I had called the dealer who sold me the car and told him the story. He has seen and drove my Z - so he knew that I wasn't a car idiot. He marched over to service to tell them just that. As much as I enjoy doing this stuff, I will probably go back to the dealer for oil changes . It's a PITA to rotate tires and the dealer only charges 40.00 for oil change and rotation. The dealership has a good reputation around here. Plus the engine requires Dexos additive which is only in Mobil 1$$$$$ It's my DD - not my Z - so they can change the oil. I still have 3 other cars to maintain - that's enough:)