madkaw

Rubber o rings still there between the carbs and manifold

Highest vacuum demands are when- Idling, decelerating , cruise

Gasket match what? Manifold to head?

Took them apart ? Or just separated them from the intake?

Check out the 71 in Bloomington Indiana That's the one I worked on

Give me a breakLOL Datsun : Z-Series White in Datsun | eBay Motors

On hard RIGHT turns the left tire rubs? On my car, the passenger rear tire rubs the wheel well worse then the driver's side. We talked the other day, I see you learned to post pics-your car looks great.

You might need to step over to Hybridz and do some searching over there. Any motor can be turbocharged. The effectiveness of the the turbo application will be with your engine management. I'm considering turbo charging my L24. Cooling issues have been the heads and lead to detonation. I would recommend spending money and effort in an aftermarket ECU, air to air cooler, modern turbo charger and accessories; and less effort and money on oversizing or stroking a L block.

I wouldn't get hung up on L28 block numbers and which is better. The n42 is supposed to have the highest nickel content - thus stronger. Just make sure a machinist checks it out

He's already eliminated that.

I remeber Chris's post about his header-looked almost homemade. I imagine flange thickness might not be the same as the stock manifold. I have seen stepped washers to correct this, but that might be the problem here. I can only see a larger vacuum leak causing such a surge.

Okay-here's a thought. You say you changed exhaust.Now you know it's imperative that the the flange thickness on the intake and exhaust are equal. If your 'new' exhaust for some reason has a thicker flange--- then your intake is not getting torqued down properly and causing major vacuum leaks along the bottom.

I have a pair of hooks -pm me

EGR working? I'm with Mr. Obvious, somethings not working with your EVAP or emissions controls.

Wouldn't rule out demon squirrels in the crankcase right now - Just think trying to get a timing reading with it running so erratic would be tough with one person especially . Chris, You didn't run the SUs with one fuel line did you? That large vacuum line is now going to your gauge instead of the booster?

Zed, Don't see how he can get a timing reading the way it runs

An unmolested 280z -yes-but Wade, that is completely molested! And as mentioned above, carbs aren't bad, and the SU's are about the best-except for my Mikuni's

Umm, 20det swaps aren't going to be common when you try and find someone to work on it. What kind of mechanic to you call yourself-novice, expert, back yard? Remember, these are modified cars that will need attention and they are probably custom modifications, so you will be on your own when comes to fixing them. Plus the price goes up for the fixes. The 74 is pretty personalized, but if like yellow-your in;) Now the 82zxt swap is much more common and you will be able to find much more help on that. Also, these cars will drive completely different from each other. The 280zxt swap might ride rough being it was set-up with camber plates and probably coil-overs. This one is one I helped work on. It's stock. Datsun : Z-Series None in Datsun | eBay Motors

Carl is right as usual. Unless you have strong sentimental value to the car you might be better moving on. IF you even considered trying to fix, you would need to get under the car and start scrapping to see really how bad it is. There is ALWAYS rust beyond what you see. It is rare to see frame rot without the connecting floor rot. Now your in for a couple grand for floors with labor. Doesn't sound like your tools and experience are up to the task. Search floor replacement on here and look at my thread to see what's involved.

Chris, You have eliminated any possiblities of vacuum leaks? Brake booster is disconnected -right? No-having the crank breather shouldn't cause anything. Wouldn't want to take some pics of your engine bay the way she sits now.

Don't believe there is any selanoid for the early fuel pump wiring . It's just hot during ignition

It's almost impossible to think that both sets of carbs did the same thing.

okay, if the #1 plug wire is lined up with mark on the cap, then you should be good as far as timing. need to do more thinking...

That plug with a green and black wire is for an electric pump. It is an open loop circuit and when a car gets an electric pump, additional wires with a plug are plugged into THAT plug to complete the circuit.

Chris, What is the #1 plug wire in relation to where the rotor is at TDC-that's what I want to see. Is the #1 plug wire lined-up with the rotor???? You never said whether you removed plug wires from the dizzy in all this process of swapping. I think you seen that it isn't carburation -it's something else. It's ignition-timing or malfunction of spark. After watching your video-all I can say WEIRD, and that sucks. I am definetly scratching my head.