madkaw

Not sure if I would sell a Z at Barrett auction. I don't think the setting is food for imports. Somebody got a good deal- then again- the deals are pretty good for most cars right now. Hope I get more than that for the 71 when it goes to market !

I believe it's been done by simply baffling off the area leading into to filters with sheetmetal.

Shallow socket+ 18" of extensions at a slight angle. It's a small window of operation that will fit the socket and sometimes the socket will get jammed and will pull off the extension. Rotate the halfshaft around to find the sweet spot. Hold the halfshaft in place with a prybar.

Looks like a good project. I'm always amazed how these engines seem to survive. Keep us updated.

Todd at Wolfcreek liked it because my CIA would do something that the TMW CAI won't- and that's pass the SCCA single-inlet restrictor test!!!!!

I appreciate the compliments and if I make it to Zcon- hope you are judging;) As far as airflow, I think we might be splitting hairs. There is an abundance of volume in that CAI and I have seen no signs of lack of air. Whenever I get around to dynoing this set up, I plan on removing the CAI on one of the runs to see if I am restricting airflow in anyway. As far as induction noise, I believe this set up actually quiets the intake noise. My exhaust is pretty loud to begin with. The only way to know would be to do a direct comparison to another triple set-up with just air filters.

BINGO! The foam on the inside of the flapdoor peeled half way off blocking some of the heat. The pain was trying to replace the foam without removing the heater box. I did loosen the heater box enough to slide it over to the driver's side so I could stick my hand in the fresh air side. What a PITA, but it's done-except for putting everything back together.

Check this out. I'd take a 2+2 like this http://www.motorstown.com/images/datsun-260zx-01.jpg

I am having issues logging in also. I have e-mail notifications of messages regarding my ad, but I can't answer because I can't log in. I have tried at different times.

Current market price for an excellent 240z around 6400.00$----give me a break

That's the stuff I'm talking about-thanks guys.

Looking for more info like; Do the guages or anything else need to be removed during install?

Yep, seen those threads-not very informative.

I've been searching and can't seem to find a thread where a member has documented the install. Now I know someone has done this and has some hints for install:) Thanks

The contrast is polar, that's what's crazy. True for heat or defrost. Murphy's Law hard at work;)

It is bizzare. I have a spare heater unit and have looked at it and can't figure how the warm air can split so evenly. Hopefully i will have a chance to mess with it today. I drained my coolant and plan on forcing water through the core in both directions to see how clean it comes out. I will just disconnect the hoses on the engine side and open up the heater valve and run water through that way. I REALLY don't want to have to pull this heater core because you know what kind of job that is. I have a spare that looks really clean. This car sat for a really long time and I had the radiator flushed and it did have some sediment in it.

I have restored these units so I am aware of how they function - that's why this is so bizarre . No confusion on the vents. If something was blocking the heat it would also ne blocking air flow, which it isn't . The only explanation is no coolant is reaching the backside of the core and the air is not getting heated.

Yes, like I said, the forced air is coming out- just cold

Never had this happen before, but I only get heat on one side of the interior. I'm not talking forced air- I have that both sides. Air only comes out warm on the passenger side. I think there can only be one explanation for this - half the heater core is clogged. Anyone else experience this? I was going to try and backflush the core so I don't have to remove it- any suggestions?? I googled this and read somewhere that the person forced water through the core in the opposite direction and loosened junk up in there.

Found a safe haven for my Z to rest for the winter out of the snow while i try to finish up HLS-30 41000

Your problem will be the stock FI. That will be your limiting factor, but if you have been on these sites and read anything, you know the power is to be found in the head. Maybe some FI guys can chime in on what has worked for them. All the info is out there-

Call the Damper Doc and ask

Steve, since you are running in a stock rpm range, why not have the original damper rebuilt? I sent my damper to the Damper Doctor -that was years ago. He guarantees the damper for 3 years. He redoes the rubber and says the damper will exceed factory HP numbers and rpm. I don't see the need for a 10krpm damper. Side note: Glad to see a company supporting our cars-MSA- but they don't seem really check out the products they sell.

These cars or projects take a huge investment in -time-more than anything. There is hardly a problem on these cars or other cars that haven't been experienced by someone else and is readily available via google. Learning how to make it work will make you abtter troubleshooter later and save you big$$$$ I will get off my pulpit-

Doubtful, you probably just have Tokico HP strut cartridges that fit your car.