SteveJ

The short answer is, "No." The longer answer: How much have your researched the electrical wiring in the 280Z? The harness has 3 main sub-harnesses: engine, dash, and body. Here are some of the changes over the years that come to mind. This list is not all encompassing. (This sounds like a good group project.) It would take a lot of effort to do this for a VERY small market. The 75 wiring harness used the 260Z harness as a starting point, removing some of the wiring needed for the carburetors and adding the wiring for the licensed version of the Bosch L-tronic fuel injection. There is also an extra fusible link for the EFI that is not in the 260Z harness, and they deleted the PITA seatbelt interlock relay, though it's still shown in the wiring diagram. The 76 added more fusible links and dropped the ammeter in favor of a voltmeter. The 77 changed the connectors for the interconnections between the sub-harnesses from Yazaki to AMP. (Did I get that right @Captain Obvious?) A relay block was added over by the battery. The 78 changed from having an external voltage regulator to one integrated into the alternator. The ignition deleted the ballast resistor. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays changed. While a lot of modern cars will have a wiring harness that accommodates all sorts of options, Nissan did not do that with the early Z. There are 12 part numbers in the parts catalog for just the engine harness. If you look through the parts manual you will see variations like Federal (49-state) manual Federal auto California manual California auto This isn't meant to discourage you. It's just to let you know that you're going to need to be creative with your project. Good luck.

Good thinking. What year brake master are you looking for?

Watch what you say about Earl Scheib. Heck even one of their paint jobs would make my 240Z look better.

Even Hondas want to be Z people.

Looking at the BBB website, quite a few people have registered complaints over the last 3 years. Apparently they provide good customer service after they have been called out in public.

If you submitted a credit card number with that order, I would monitor it carefully. I have NEVER had to submit extra documentation to a vendor and to hell if I ever would. Pay a few bucks more and buy from a reputable vendor like Motorsport Auto or ZCarDepot.

I believe so, since their units do AC, heat, and defrost.

Fusible link diagnostics: It helps to have a DC clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B07Z398YWF Test the voltage at the battery with the car off. Record the result. Test the voltage at the battery with the car running. Record the result. Note: If it is above 15V at idle - there is your problem. Test the current through the fusible link with the key in ON but car not running. Record the result. Note: If the meter shows a negative value, remove the clamp, face the meter in the opposite direction, and put it back over the fusible link. Leaving the ammeter around the fusible link, test the current through the fusible link with the car running. Record the result. Note: The polarity of the current should change. From this we should get a better idea of whether or not @siteunseen is putting you on the right path. If I have time, I'll make a short video to demonstrate. Setting idle speed: You can buy a multimeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K or a fancy timing light like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVU8J8 (Yes, I have both.) You can even find a handheld tachometer, but I haven't used one myself.

Close, it was to keep the points from burning up.

If you find you need to move away from the stock AC, Vintage Air and Nostalgic AC both have evaporators with heater cores.

Trust me. Corrosion can happen even with a "California" car. The horns on my 240Z wouldn't work until I took a dremel and wire brush to the horns and the wiring. That's a little more extreme because the horns are out front and get spray, but I have found corrosion at many connectors.

My S30.World tank is mounted in the 240Z. Now I just have to wait for half decent weather so I can take it for a drive.

Actually, I started writing a response and saw your reply. To make sure I wasn't on the wrong path, I dug through the FSM to verify my memory was correct. In conclusion, your post made me research more to give a better answer than I originally intended. In the 72 FSM, the description of the throttle opener starts on EC-10.

I have to disagree with @siteunseen. The vacuum hose would connect to a part that has been removed. There should be a control valve mounted to where I have the arrow. The control valve and dashpot are described in the EC section of the factory service manual. Here is a picture from page EC-2: The control valve and dashpot prevent the throttle from closing as rapidly when you take your foot off the gas pedal. That reduced the volume of unburned hydrocarbons out the exhaust.

Have you cleaned all of the connecters between the fuel gauge and fuel sending unit? Corrosion will show up as extra resistance. Extra resistance means lower readings.

I suggest reaching out to the Indy Z Car Club. Maybe someone in that club would know of a shop or person who could help. https://www.indyzcarclub.org/

I left out stuck valve at the float bowl.

So is it too far out of line to say that your car died because it ran out of gas? If the car ran this morning, there should be gas in the float bowls. Empty float bowls means that there is no gas available to be atomized. Try putting about an ounce of gas in each bowl. Shoot some starting fluid down the throat of each carburetor. (Tip: Have the air cleaner off and raise the piston in the carb to shoot the starting fluid into the intake.) If you have gas in the tank, then why is it not getting to the carburetors? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? Rotten hoses? Rust clogging the system?

No, with the key in ON, you should not see 12VDC UNLESS someone has bypassed the ballast resistor. Also, lift the negative wire off the coil to take the voltage measurement. If it's a points ignition with the gap closed or almost closed, that will affect the voltage reading unless you pull the negative coil wire. What ignition system is installed? Points? Pertronix? Crane? ZX distributor with ignition module? HEI? Other? If you're unsure, post photos of your distributor with the cap off. What is the condition of the cap and rotor? (again photos) Remove the plug wires to assess the cap. Make sure you remember the order for the plug wires, too, so you don't install them wrong. Will the car fire with starting fluid? Is there gas in the float bowls?

While preparing for ZCON 2018, one of my fellow GZC members gave me a DVD with some videos from Johnnie Gable. I used some of the video in the ZCON presentation, but of course, I made a copy of the files for myself. So, I was looking through the portable hard drive where I stored them today, and I decided to put one of the videos on YouTube. I checked with Johnnie's son about sharing the video, and he approved, so please enjoy a look back at the Z world from 1995.

Registration is open for ZCON 2022. I got myself and my much better half registered. http://zcon.org/conventions/2022/registration/

And believe it or not, I was at a friend's house today, helping him with the turn signals/hazards on his 260Z. It was an interesting problem, too. The left side lights weren't working for the turn signals or hazards. There was an issue with the physical connection at the steering column and another at the connector just downstream from the hazard switch connector. It was a nice way to start off the new year.

3 or 4 screw?

First, thank you for posting the photo. It does take some guesswork out of trying to figure out what's wrong with your car. Now in response to your post, okay, you're wrong. 😉 Flasher is for the turn signals. The brakes and hazards are on the same fuse. There has been a lot of carnage in that electrical system. The black/white wire feeding the turn signals has melted off most of the insulation. I'm surprised you were getting turn signals. The fuse for the running lights/gauge lights has experienced the very common meltdown. It looks like the wire going to the contact was cut off, so I would be curious where the IPO (idiot previous owner) was getting the power for that circuit. I also see damage on the wire for the horn circuit, but that was probably from when the running light fuse melted down. Definitely perform a careful inspection/cleaning of the light sockets for the side markers, front marker/turn signals, and the rear marker/turn signals/brakes. I should have taken a photo of one of the side markers I took off my 240Z a few months back. It was rusted beyond reasonable repair, so I replaced it with a cheap replica I purchased from ebay. If there isn't much corrosion, Spray the socket with Caig Deoxit and use a small wire cup brush on a Dremel to clean off the corrosion. In a pinch, you can also soak the socket in Tarn-X instead of Deoxit, but I would rinse with denatured alcohol to get rid of as much Tarn-X as possible. Also, don't run power through anything treated with denatured alcohol until you are very sure it has all evaporated. Using LED bulbs for the side markers, turn signals, and brake lights will also drop the thermal stress on the wiring and switches. I also like LED headlights to take the load off the switch. You can get decent H4 housings (I like Hella) and H4 headlight bulbs for about $140 from Amazon. Let me know if you want more details. I noticed that you put a pin on the member map that you're in Georgia. @gogriz91 and I know many people in the Atlanta area for parts/work on Z cars if you're ever up this way.