SteveJ

Shake down drive: Choke cables need to be adjusted. Alternator not charging battery. (Going to adjust tension to see if that is the problem. Also spare alternator is available.) Still some leaking from the tank, but it looks like vent hoses are the culprit. I'll have to drive it to drop the fuel level to where I can drain it and drop the tank to inspect. Turn signal cancellation needs to be cleaned up. Oil pressure is great. Water temp is normal. Hard starting after fueling up. I had to hold the gas pedal down while cranking for a while. Choke cable misadjustment? Ran like a scalded dog when it was up to temp. The 5 speed truck transmission (installed by a previous owner) leaves a LOT to be desired aside from dropping RPMs at cruise.

I think the ZX distributors are pretty much re-build your old one since the cores are pretty much gone. The OP said he has a 78 distributor, so he can make that work just fine with an HEI module.

The front lights have dual filament bulbs. One filament has a lower light level than the other. If you look in the BE section, you'll see the original bulb spec. It's 1034. I was just looking at some original dual filament bulbs last night. When you look at the wiring diagrams, you'll see two loops in the bulb where you have a dual filament. There's also a dual filament bulb on each side of the rear panel.

I'm guessing that most of the tachometer problems people have is that they put both black/white wires onto the coil instead of connecting the black/white wire from the ballast resistor to the green/white on the ballast resistor. @beermanpete wrote that up about the Pertronix over at Hybridz.org.

Look up the GM HEI conversion for the ignition. The 280Z distributor can trigger it. You will need to ground the HEI to the chassis to complete the path to ground. That's usually done by securing the HEI to the inner fender. With the 280Z distributor and HEI, you would not need the ballast resistor. Just connect the wires together. If you're worried about reliability, you can just keep a spare HEI in the glove box. I believe there are threads on this board about using a coil designed for an HEI module, but I do not have experience with that.

Wow, doubling down. Yeah, points NEVER fail. They are so fantastic that automakers still use them on cars today. The 280Z ignition box is so unreliable that it only lasts 40+ years. A 240Z owner would have had to replace those "reliable" points many times over in that time. Did you know there are highly reliable replacements for the TIU? Apparently not from your answer. The OP could use an HEI module with the 280Z distributor. It has been well documented here and elsewhere. And he would not need to replace the tachometer, though he could if needed for other reasons.

Wow, I think this may be your most uninformed post, yet.

What do you plan to use to trigger your spark? The 78 used a transistor ignition unit (TIU) mounted in the passenger compartment.

The target for the base model is $40K. I would think the next level up will be $45K to $47K. I'm not going to guess on the Proto Spec.

Of course, not, but we WILL always picture you with a long scraggily beard from here on out.

And to be clear, it's pronounce as "Yoob".

When I played rugby in college, anytime a kick barely made it through the uprights (or doinked through), we would say, "UBE (Ugly, but effective)." That nut is securely fastened to the angle. It's definitely UBE.

So, what do you do when you have some free time in the evening, have access to a cheap Harbor Freight welder, and possess a homemade tool? You attach a nut to the tool.

Oil change - Annual Tires - If you store the car off the ground, you could go several years. If you store the car on the ground, you're probably flat-spotting them. That would push more frequent replacement. I have some friends in my local club that have gone 15+years on a set of tires. I won't trust fate like that. The max for me is 10 years from the manufacture date on the tire and sooner if I detect dry-rot. Remember to pull the tire to inspect the backside of it.

So, if you don't mind answering, what drove your inquiry?

The best I can do right now is the full part number: 14004-N3300.

The exhaust manifold for the 73 was a 1-year only deal. The heat shield is covering up the number on mine.

The diaphragm or one of the check valves may be going bad. What brand pump do you have on the car now?

Intake? Mine has an N33, and I'm pretty sure that it is original to the car.

My time wasn't wasted. @zKarstold me something about my doors that I didn't know before. I got to do something to address my curiosity, and you got the confirmation you needed. I feel good.

I think those capture nuts are to hold the brace in place if I understand @zKarscorrectly. I didn't take them out to see if that piece would wiggle inside the door. I'm lazy that way. It's not like there is going to be a thick support in the door since that would intrude on the space for the window & regulator as far as I can tell.

Hey @gogriz91, do you feel like taking off a door card and seeing if you see the same thing in your door?

Since my older siblings pulled enough pranks on me growing up, I didn't get fooled by a snipe hunt because I could smell a rat. 😉