SteveJ

Or just go cheap with a DPDT switch...Yeah, I know. That's no fun.

Thank you. It wasn't my first effort. I made another bench many years ago, but it had fixed legs and a rectangular shape. It took up too much space, and it couldn't get as close to the door sill. Eventually, it got tossed. I was actually thinking of mounting a hook to the underside of the bench so I could hang it from my shelves to keep it more out of the way.

I did a quick search for the home made tool thread, but I didn't find it. (Of course, I didn't spend too much time looking for it.) I bought some folding table leg brackets from Amazon a while back for this project, and I finally made the time to execute. The video shows the door sill height benchtop I made for when I have to lie on my back to work in the footwell. I used 2x12 for the benchtop with 2x4 legs. I hope you find it useful.

@borini63 Do you still have a good collection of ZX parts?

That is part of what drove me to do the Frontier alternator swap on the 260Z. I had a good ZX alternator that I decided to use in the 240Z when I was waking it up last year. That used up my reserve. I learned I could get a new Frontier alternator from Rockauto, so I went that route.

Download the factory service manual. It has the specs. The FSM is available in the Downloads section of this board. I have a link in my signature.

You need to support the valve. You can do with compressed air or some rope pushed in through the spark plug hole.

Resurrected Classics Hood - https://resurrectedclassics.com/collections/sheet-metal

I'm relaxing at home when I got a call from a number I didn't recognize. Since the caller left a voicemail, I played it. He told me he got my number from a friend. He has a 78 that he drove to the gas station, and it wouldn't "catch". He said another friend worked on the car, but that friend wasn't available. I called him back and found out that the engine would turn but wouldn't fire. Knowing that the friend who worked on the car is a very good Z wrench, I knew I had to run through possible esoteric solutions. "Beat on the ECU." "What?" "Hit the ECU with the side of your fist. Just bang on it a couple of times. Then try to start your car." "Where is it?" "When you're sitting in the car, it's by your left leg on the kick panel." "I see a piece of plastic there." "Yep. Hit it." "Oh my God. It worked." I told him he might need to replace the ECU. It looks like MSA is out of them for right now. When I told the story to another friend, he responded, "Percussive maintenance." What can I say? He's right.

By the way, if you want to get more traction (and aren't taking the Z up to Big Bear in the winter time), consider getting some Falken Azenis RT615K+ tires. They are slightly smaller than the tires you have on the car now, but they have great grip.

Yeah, I hear that at home a lot, too...except without the thanks at the end. *sigh*

And here: https://www.americanracing.com/american-racing-outlaw-ii

I'm not sure this is the original design, but I found it: https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?gclid=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaOsvTVxlScfZk2xUsLc4O6mkd_Q5sS7ms7OU0M_B2SSQM1VxT8isBhoCoUMQAvD_BwE&target=runWheelSearch&wheelMake=American+Racing&wheelModel=AR62+Outlaw+II&wheelFinish=Silver+Machined+w%2FClearcoat&initialPartNumber=AR625762SDC&GCID=C13674x012-wheel&KEYWORD=wheels_American_Racing_AR62_Outlaw_II_Silver_Machined_w%2FClearcoat_Wheels_15_In_15x7_50&code=yes&autoMake=Oldsmobile&autoModel=Toronado&autoYear=1985&autoModClar=&checkVehicle=&ef_id=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaOsvTVxlScfZk2xUsLc4O6mkd_Q5sS7ms7OU0M_B2SSQM1VxT8isBhoCoUMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!537118804928!!!u!293946777986!&gclsrc=aw.ds

The test I suggested still applies. If you see voltage on the black/white wire with the key off, that's your problem. If there isn't voltage on the black/white wire, then it's on to testing with an ammeter, but I'll supply those directions if necessary. As for the ammeter gauge dancing, it means that the alternator is cutting its output. Make sure you have enough tension in the belt. What is your idle speed set to on the car? What is the voltage to ground at the yellow wire on the T connector at the alternator? The last thing I can think of is a possible issue with the voltage regulator in the alternator.

"I'll take Fraud for $1000, Alex." "The answer is, 'Only two posts and BOTH are responding to a parts wanted ad.'" "What is the hallmark of a scammer on Classiczcars.com?" "That is correct, and you retain control of the board."

Yep, that was @Randalla's ebay listing when he had them before. Maybe send him a PM. I think an order of 10 might inspire him to get more produced.

Great point. Unless the valve seats have been replaced with hardened seats, one could have become hammered.

By the way, on my 240Z, I was trying to re-learn how to use an oscilloscope and was measuring the voltage at the coil, correlating it to an inductive pickup on the coil wire and #1 plug wire. The waveform of the coil voltage had irregular peaks. When I reviewed my results against some Google research, I started looking for extra gaps in the high voltage circuit. Sure enough I found a corroded high voltage terminal on the coil. I plugged in a new coil, and the volume of voltage spikes decreased precipitously.

This is where it would be great to have the ability to measure spark voltage on a scope while driving. Great! Now you have me looking at portable 2 channel oscilloscopes! Dang it, I'm spending enough money on tools already.

Is this an auction that people outside Japan can use, or does it require an agent?

Unless the owner has added a big stereo, the alternator won't necessarily be putting out more current than the old alternator. On the other hand the excitation curve is improved over the old alternator, so it is putting out enough at lower engine RPMs. (I know this has been mentioned in the past over at ZCar.com. I don't know if it was mentioned here.) This can make a difference with blinkers functioning properly, headlight illumination, etc. Granted, LEDs can also help with lighting performance, and I am a big proponent for them. I have used a ZX alternator in my 240Z for over 20 years without problems, and I put a Frontier alternator (70A) in my 260Z last year. It's not an accident waiting to happen.

Finally, consider posting photos of what you're looking at. It usually easier to figure out what you are looking at if you post close-in and zoomed out photos of where you are looking.

You can also look for the voltage signal on these wires using a multimeter if the key is in the ON position. Ground the negative probe and test the wire of interest with the positive probe. You should see the voltage fluctuate for the fuel gauge wire and for the oil pressure gauge wire.

The wire back to the fuel sending unit should be yellow if the wiring hasn't been molested too badly. At the back of the car, there should also be a yellow/blue wire and a black wire. The yellow/blue wire is connected to a thermistor on the sending unit for the low fuel light. The black wire is a ground. The stock wiring for the oil pressure sensor is yellow blue. In the stock wiring, it should have a bullet or ring connector to attach to the oil pressure sender mounted in the lower middle of the block on the passenger side. The wire should go back into the wiring harness and connects to the dash harness. It in the same position for pretty much every S30 and S130.

I'm saying it should be tested with everything connected. If you see voltage on the black/white wire with the key off, there is something wrong, and it's probably either a bad or incorrectly installed diode. Other than that, it could be a voltage regulator in the alternator. This is where a clamp ammeter can be handy for testing where current is flowing.