SteveJ

The 3rd owner of the car said he thought my car might have over 300K miles on it. It has either 250K miles or 350K miles on the chassis, and I wouldn't be shocked if those were the original bushings. I'll have the tires on soon, and I can check the toe again.

If you are on FB, here's a photo from an early 240Z booster they worked on: https://www.facebook.com/BoosterDewey/photos/a.1575990385761591/4967042226656373/

You might reach out to these guys: https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/ I have not used them, but I do recall seeing S30s on their Facebook feed.

With the end link nuts being stubborn, I had a couple of more opportunities to use the induction heater. On the first top nut, I got the end link hot enough that the bushing caught on fire. For the other end link, I thought it would be a good opportunity to shoot a demonstration video. If you're not familiar with the induction heater bolt removers, I have a positive impression so far.

I have to admit that I am reassembling without touching the spindle pins. I want to know if I corrected the toe with the new inner bushings.

The inner bushings are off. They definitely show 48+ years of wear. @Captain Obvious, I can see how the distortion could lend itself to letting the toe change. I'll put the inner bushings together and check on the spindle pins. So far, aside from the one end link on the sway bar, everything has been cooperating. If the new poly bushings don't fix the toe problem, I'm going to try the eccentric bushings from MSA.

John, is it plastic or metal on the back side of the HEI? If it's metal, I would say go for broke and use conductive paste. I'm thinking the two holes in the unit for mounting may be the path to ground they want you to use. If it's plastic, use the silicone adhesive and bolt the unit securely to the heat sink. Then the heat sink should be bolted securely to the body. Check resistance between the mounting bolt of the HEI and the negative of the battery to make sure you have a good path to ground.

So far things are working out in the disassembly. I had one end link on the sway bar that didn't want to cooperate, and I was rounding the nut. I figured it was a great time to break out the induction heater. I heated up the end link a couple of times, getting it cherry red, put a smaller socket on the impact gun, and spun off the stubborn nut with ease. The rubber in the bushing was smoking a lot, and I wondered if it was going to ignite. On the other hand, the torch would have almost definitely ignited the bushing. I am happy with the induction heater so far and would suggest someone working on a bunch of rusty bolts should consider getting one.

Good to know. I also purchased a ball joint press. I could experiment with that, too.

I'm only working on the rear at this time. It's almost impossible to get rubber anymore.

It's a tiny meter, about 1.5 inches by 1.5. The nice thing is that if I blow it up, it was cheap.

Yes, sir. I am putting poly bushings in. This may be interesting.

For future reference, you can put the fuel pressure gauge on the line between the fuel rail and the carburetor. I found it easier than trying to connect it to the fuel pump.

The heat sink should be bolted to the fender. That should be an adequate grounding.

I have a 20 ton press and plenty of sockets. I may be able to push out the old rubber. I did see videos on using fire to have one's way with those bushings.

On the advice of a friend, I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to hold up the differential. The nice part is that my 20% off coupon was good to use for buying it. The coupon said jacks were excluded, but I guess it meant hydraulic jacks. I also took the opportunity to buy a set of 3/8 impact sockets, and at Home Depot I picked up a compact 3/8 impact gun. Now to find what bolts are uncooperative.

I'm kind of thinking it reminds me of a Dino with fewer curves. Maybe it's just the orange.

I actually saw that helping a friend with his 280Z. He bought a fancy FPR from the company that employs Corky Bell. The fancy FPR was supposed to work with the stock FPR to increase the fuel pressure even at higher vacuum. Well, when my friend got someone to install the FPR, the installer didn't bother reading instructions (Sometime instructions aren't for sissies.) and removed the stock FPR. When my friend brought the car to me, he had Corky's number, and I confirmed what was needed. My friend got a stock FPR, and I installed it, but I didn't put a vacuum reference on it at first. On the first test drive, the car stumbled at tip-in, and I could even see it with the AFR meter. I found an available port for the vacuum reference, and the car ran a lot better.

And the oil pressure looks good, too.

Use a conductive adhesive between the HEI and heat sink. https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Adhesives/b?ie=UTF8&node=401542011

@siteunseen was referring to the return side of the fuel pressure regulator.

YouTube does that to videos under a minute now.

Here is what I suggest to help your project. For the terminations, either for the HEI or matchbox, buy a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/HUAREW-Connecto-Terminal-Insulating-Electrical/dp/B098DX41Y8/ and a crimper like this: https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-300-035-Multi-Purpose-Crimping-Tool/dp/B002PI8D4K I like open barrel terminals more than single crimp since they clamp onto the insulation and the wire. With the proper crimping tool, the open barrel terminals rarely come off. The kit includes insulators so you can reduce the chances of shorting something out.

I purchased the Energy Suspension bushing kit a LONG time ago. (I'm thinking it was about 8 years ago or so.) I put the car up in the air earlier this year, but I realized the scissor lift made it where the exhaust was in the way. I finally put the car up in the air with the QuickJacks. (Don't buy a lift that has a crossmember at the top.) So I was looking it over carefully since this is definitely not an area of expertise for me. I sprayed some Kroil on various bolts and nuts that will need to be turned, and I think I worked out my plan of attack. Lower the exhaust and support it out of the way. Remove the rear sway bar. Attack the moustache bar. Attack the crossmember, supporting the differential with a jack as needed. Remove the inner LCA bushings Replace the bushings on the mustache bar, crossmember, and inner control arms. Pray and contemplate developing a relationship with alcohol. Attack the spindle pins. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. (In the Haines manual tradition) Thoughts, criticisms, advice?

Let's start with the obvious. The car isn't getting fuel at tip-in on the throttle. Has your friend thought about getting the injectors cleaned? What is the fuel pressure during this time? Is the vacuum line connected to the fuel pressure regulator? I couldn't pause the video in time to see.