SteveJ

Charging problems with two alternators first points to the voltage regulator, especially since you didn't say whether or not you changed it. Keep in mind that if the voltage regulator is original, it is adjustable. The EE section of the FSM has the procedure. In addition to the link @kickstand80provided, you can download the FSM from here: The EE section is available, but unfortunately some other sections are not. (This applies to either download site.) If the voltage regulator is not an OEM part, it's probably time to replace it. You should test the alternator first, as was suggested. It looks like MSA has the best price for a VR, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4083. You may want to bite the bullet and order it today so it ships before they are closed for the long weekend.

What year 280Z?

I bought a 4-speed shift knob off ebay, and the threads weren't right. I ended up reaming out the hole and using a threaded insert.

No, it's not a loose fit. You press it on.

You can certainly tell those seats were assembled and re-covered by someone with excellent skills.

No, it clamps onto the ridge around the doorframe, just like the stock weatherstrip.

I bought some generic door weatherstrip from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NELWRJ4 I believe it worked well, and it installed easily. I go into more detail in my thread on waking up my 73.

I would be shocked if it did. There is only about 3 or 4 mm clearance above the fuses in the fusebox.

Yep, that's what I saw, too.

No, but then again, I didn't come across as an obtuse fool, and I'm willing to re-think things after I'm proven wrong.

It's better to keep as much of the original wires intact, but it's easy to "kill" the GW and BW wires in the engine bay, I outlined that earlier. However, Duffy was hindered by the evaporator on the aftermarket AC. The wiring suggestions I gave a couple of comments prior to this one would be easy to implement.

Here is the connection in my car of the GW and BW wires near the coil in the engine bay. The 2 pin connector in the center stack is easily identified by the T shape with BW and G wires connected to it.

You don't need the diodes. What I gave you was a very simple way to wire. You said you aren't using the GW wire for the tach, so all you would need to do is land the GW and BW wire at the same place in the engine bay or replace the terminals on them now for a male/female bullet. Why do you want to do 10 times more work?

In the stock wiring, the GW wire has power with the key in Start and goes over to the tachometer. This wire also branches over to the ballast resistor. The BW wire branches out to the engine bay to the other side of the ballast resistor. The other branch of the BW wire goes to the center stack where it splits again. One branch goes to the fuse box and the other goes to a 2 pin T-shaped connector. You could get a connector from Vintage Connections that will let you plug an inline fuse into the circuit and go out to the pink wire on the Haltech. http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/79 You could also get a single pin connector to attach the inline fuse to the pink wire: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/78 The only caveat is that you can't have the GW wire going to the tachometer connector anymore.

Probably the easiest way to ensure you have power at start and on is to jumper the BW from the ignition switch to the GW at the ballast resistor. You won't backfeed the circuit for the starter solenoid. After watching Duffy's video, I ran a test on my 73. I disconnected the solenoid wire and took apart the connection for the BW and GW wires under the hood that I did put together to jumper out the ballast. (BW cannot backfeed the GW wire.) I put the turn signal into a right turn and put the key in start. The turn signal flashed, meaning in my 73 with an original switch (AFAIK) supplies power to the BW wire in start and on.

I used a clip lead and remote starter. https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3630-Remote-Starter-Switch/dp/B000EVU8MK Clip one end of the clip lead to the negative of the battery and the other to the body of the horn. Clip one end of the remote starter to the positive of the battery and the other end to the terminal on the horn. I suggest holding the horn so the positive terminal cannot touch the body of the car and short. Press the button on the remote starter.

And I have already demonstrated that your flawed design won't work and should be consigned to the trash heap. But what would I know? I only work with these kinds of circuits for a living.

You may want to check out Vintage Dashes or search for Hung Vu on Facebook. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67730-reproduction-240-dash/#comment-643729

It's not exactly plug and play. I just don't like cutting factory wires if I don't have to. One could back out the BW wires out of C-2 and C-3 and put them into smaller AMP connectors. The dash harness side would go to the key source on the Pertronix. The BW on the engine harness side would go to the BW on the Pertronix. That would save running a wire all of the way from the Pertronix in the passenger footwell to the coil.

D'oh, Mouser doesn't expect to get any of the 172508-1 until mid December.

If I'm correct, these are the same style connectors as C-2 and C-3, though photos of those taken apart would be helpful to confirm.

I'm thinking this is right, but I'm open to critiques. This is how I would see it going for the wiring. You would need to make sure you lift the wire between the ballast resistor and coil positive. Could this be done without running a single wire out to the coil? sure, but that would require more wire modifications between the dash harness and engine harness. Edit: Yes, it could be done without running the wire out to the coil, but it would require buying 2 sets of connectors to make jumper harnesses between C-2 and C-3 to intercept the BW wire at those junctions.

Agreed. I'm going to write up my suggestions.

Looking at the wiring diagrams: For the 280Z, I would think the grey wire would connect to the blue wire that goes back to the TIU and tach.

A friend of mine has been running the FAST system for a while. He has driven his Z to California and back at least a couple of times with it.