SteveJ

The only modifications I needed to make were wiring related. I had to put a bigger ring on the wire for the B terminal. I put a 2 pin connector on the pigtail for the Frontier alternator to connect the S & L wires, and I had to de-pin 4 wires from the VR connector (only needed for 74-77) to jumper the wires for the S & L terminals. Oh, I did need a longer bolt for the front alternator mount for some reason. Otherwise, it fits like a glove.

Hijack attempt! I swapped in the Frontier alternator into a friend's 77 this morning. Here's the jumper I made at the voltage regulator using a 4-pin Yazaki connector I purchased from Eastern Beaver. It's a nice water-resistant connector, and it's period appropriate. If he ever decides to go back to original, I can reverse the work, too.

So what is the voltage at those two points?

Just to be clear, you have to alter the wiring so that you have this: That is usually accomplished by jumpering the WB to BW at the voltage regulator and jumpering the Y to WR at the voltage regulator. Those are the voltage measurements we have been talking about.

What white/red isn't connected? A photo or two would help. If your alternator isn't getting the sense voltage it would overcharge, just as @Captain Obvious said.

The gasket didn't change the horn sound that I could tell.

What I did for the paper gasket was take some card stock and cut it to the appropriate diameters. After punching the holes, I sprayed both sides with a few layers of plasti-dip.

Look at reply 17 - https://www.zcar.com/threads/transistor-ignition-unit.424466/#post-2798228

I don't know if the old Yazaki connectors are available anywhere. Even my good friend, Google, is stumped. The Yazaki connectors that are available aren't the same type. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html This one may work for the 2 pin connector: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/2W-YAM-RD125-MAL-CONN https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/2W-YAM-RD125-FEM-CONN 6 pin: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/6W-YAM-ML-CONN 4 pin: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/4W-YAM-MAL-RD-YPC https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/4W-YAM-FEM-RD-YPC It's not easy finding those parts.

Does that mean we're going to see a photo of a broken shaft?

The best way to reduce heat in the parking light and headlight circuits is to use LEDs. For the other circuits, look at the ones using 20A fuses. (76 fuse box as an example) If you keep the same placement, note how close those 3 are together.

So I'm guessing that is for a 280Z. I suggest you consider subjecting it to some thermal testing, considering that some of those circuits can pull some current, such as the parking lights and headlights. It's not fun to find that your fuse box has melted down. Been there, done that with the stock 240Z fuse box.

Gateway Classic Cars of Atlanta was holding its monthly Caffeine and Chrome meet today, and the Georgia Z Club was the featured club this month. While Gateway gives the featured clubs money based on the car count (up to $200), we decided to donate the money to Toys for Tots. With the great weather and spirit of showing up to get money for Toys for Tots, we had plenty of Z cars show up, with every generation represented. We don't get that too often.

Yes, the plan is to make a harness go to between the factory harness and the amplifier.

It doesn't have to be an improvement. It just has to work. I know of at least 3 Z cars in my area that are having problems because the amplifier failed. Since the original is NLA, if I can get this to work, people will have functional wipers. I have looked at other intermittent relays, but this will probably be the best way to work with existing wiring.

Can anybody guess what I'm about to try?

Thanks for the document. It's a good reference. Keep going with the updates!

Based on your photos, I concur with your assessment. With Relay A gone, you have no problem with the alternator upgrade.

Okay, your car probably has the fuel pump relay modification. It looks like you have two wires at the starter solenoid. There is no need to cut any wires! Just unplug Relay A. The relay is located on the passenger kick panel. If the relay is plugged in and you have that alternator mod, you will run your battery down.

Measure voltage to ground on the backside of the connector. One pin should have voltage with the engine off. That is the battery sense. Also, look to see if the connector is corroded.

But have you checked battery sense voltage at the alternator?

Yes. For the 78 it's easier than for earlier S30s since your car is already set up for an internally regulated alternator.

It has to be a 4 cylinder Frontier or Xterra to have the correct pulley.

I haven't had any issues with the Frontier alternator I bought from Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8829284&cc=1359200&pt=2412 Rockauto has several other brands listed as new (not reman). You also have to buy a plug like this to integrate it into the wiring. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZMN2B59 Attach that plug to a 2 pin connector from Vintage Connections (http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/79), and you can plug the new alternator into your car. Last, but not least, you'll need to replace the ring on the alternator charge wire with one that can go on the M8 post on the alternator.

There is only 1 bid on record for that username (for that "engine") and no comments on record. It can make a reasonable person wonder.