SteveJ
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					CurrentlyViewing Topic: Just saying hello
Everything posted by SteveJ
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		Bright Headlight Dash Light
		
		Actually that is not correct. The socket for the high beam indicator is not grounded on the gauge like the gauge lights. It has two wires as I described in post #4 on this thread. It would more likely be the connector not plugged in completely between the dash harness and the socket.
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		It's easy to figure out. Actually when @240260280 showed me how to do a valve adjustment, there were some lock nuts so tight, both of us were pulling on the wrench to break them loose. I think @Carl Beck has posted in the past about using a brass hammer to help the wrench to encourage the lock nuts to turn.
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		By the way, did anybody notice around the 7:20 mark when I realized that I had not tightened a bolt the previous day? That was why I made sure I hit everything with the torque wrench at the end.
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking that if you torque in the air, that will twist the bushing upward on each side when the car is on the ground. When the suspension gets loaded further, it may be twisting more than the compliance of the bushing. When torqued with weight on the wheel, the suspension is in a neutral position, so the bushing can twist in either direction as the suspension is loaded or unloaded during driving. Too bad John Coffey is no longer around to give the full answer. 😞
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		It's simple. I have the ramps, and I trust them more than the old cinder blocks I have. I also REALLY appreciate the increased room I have under the car with the ramps. I'm not exactly svelte. I keep looking at the dead blow hammers at Harbor Freight. It's about time I get one. It's not like it would break my budget.
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		source for control arm pivot bolt
		
		This also this listing on ebay. I don't know if he would ship to Germany. https://www.ebay.com/itm/301847950526
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		I could have used a rubber mallet if I had just been willing to crawl out from under the car and walk over to the workbench to get it. With my knees I have to economize on those trips.
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		source for control arm pivot bolt
		
		https://zcardepot.com/products/front-lower-control-arm-bolt-240z-260z-280z
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		Video - Tightening the Rear Suspension Bolts
		
		After I posted about changing out the inner bushings for the LCAs back in September, @Captain Obviousposed the question, "Did you remember to load the suspension before tightening the bolts?" If I had of bothered the RRTFM (That's re-read...), I maybe would have remembered. I figured that I should make a video of tightening the bolts since it may help someone figure out how they can do it. (Hint: Ramps!) I finally got around to editing it enough to post. This also gives you guys something to watch between unwrapping presents and watching football (or cooking the turkey/goose/ham/etc.). Merry Christmas!
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		Cold air issue
		
		We received notice from our power company to cut back today so the grid doesn't collapse. There is ice on the inside of the window in the bathroom from condensation running down to the bottom of the window. Fortunately we have a propane heater in case of emergency.
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		I thought I was done with Z cars
		
		I was hoping you would stumble across this thread.
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		Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
		
		From the Remembering the Original Road Atlanta group on Facebook: The picture below is from Oct 1980 According to the comments, it's Jeff Curlee in the 280Z in front. The 240Z was driven by the late John Williams. That 240Z is still owned by someone I know, and he tracked the car at the Mitty a few years ago.
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		Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
		
		That's not how we operate in the South. Red clay is part of life. It will get on your car, even if it never leaves paved roads, so we don't worry about infield parking.
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		Let's show vintage racing pictures. I'll start.
		
		That certainly looks like the infield of Road Atlanta to me. I just don't see a car from later in the 70s in the photo. Am I missing a 80s era car?
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		Guess what made my 51 year old car stop working after driving it for 22 years without a problem?
		
		First two guesses would be Underhood inspection light Glove box light (if the door isn't shut completely)
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		78 280Z fuel tank advice
		
		How much is your time worth? You might be able to recondition the tank, or you could save time with buying a tank from S30.world.
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		Instrument Light Problems
		
		Thanks for following up to share your solution. Many diagnostics I have offered people were based upon hearing how others solved their own problems.
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		Bright Headlight Dash Light
		
		With unmolested wiring, it's unlikely to be the fuse unless the right headlight is dim. (Note: This only applied to sealed beams and halogens.) Some LEDs don't have polarity set right, but since you said the incandescent bulb didn't work either, it's not likely a polarity issue.
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		Bright Headlight Dash Light
		
		I believe the circuit is pretty much the same for all S30s. The power for the high beam light comes off the fuse for the right headlight (red wire). It comes to the high beam indicator bulb, and on the other side of the bulb, you have a red/white wire that goes down to the high/low beam switch. In the high beam position, the red/white wire for that bulb and for the headlights is grounded. Things to check off the top of my head: Make sure the right headlight fuse is good. Make sure the bulb is seated properly in the socket. Make sure the socket is seated properly in the gauge. If you don't want to remove the speedometer, I have had good luck in the past removing the tachometer to get to the bulbs behind the speedometer. Are there any modifications to the wiring that we should know about? Are the headlights coming on and switching properly between high and low beam?
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		Pertronix Ignition Install
		
		
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		Z's on BAT and other places collection
		
		This hit my inbox via Hagerty this morning. https://www.hagerty.com/drivers-club/my-garage/76xlk0bd/yafa/90724980-90b3-444d-8f83-638ae7f6f615 260Z 2+2 with this in the description: Power with a 2.6L with a longer wheelbase that makes her look even prettier. I guess everybody is entitled to his/her own opinion, but the car does look nice.
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		2 piston front calipers on 77 280z
		
		Thanks for pointing that out. The 12+8 are available on Rockauto, too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13416221&cc=1277243&pt=1704&jsn=1404
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		2 piston front calipers on 77 280z
		
		Definitely 'yota calipers. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9744180&cc=1272260&pt=1704&jsn=1203
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		what happens when safety comes last...
		
		When I have a car up on ramps/jack stands, the wheels on the ground always get chocked. As a matter of fact, when the wife guides me up the ramps, she chocks the back tire as soon as she hears the car go in park. I am pretty good about not rushing anything that I think can crush me.
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		Frankenstien Engine for Junk Car race
		
		Get the SUs on the car, and I'll help you tune them. The only better way would be to install triple carbs, and that's above your budget.
 
     
     
     
     
				 
					
						 
					
						 
					
						 
                    