SteveJ

True. I think when most people consider replacing the fusebox, they are talking about the "Painless" kits. For a stock replacement, your only choice is used, such as from ZCarSource.

What is the minimum number of gridlines that Frostfighters will support? Three seems kind of low at first blush. If you lose one gridline, the current through the other 2 will go up significantly.

Two voltage regulators causes BAD things to happen. Download the factory service manual for your car. (Find the link in my signature.) Then you can look things up instead of relying upon hearsay. There is enough bad information floating around online that it is in your best interest to have the definitive repair manual on hand.

Search on this site. Somewhere someone posted a colorized diagram of the 78 fusebox. By the way, it is a good idea to put the year/model of your car in your signature. If you look at the submenu, you'll see Forum Actions. Click on that, and then click on Edit Profile. Then look on the left side of the screen for My Settings and find Edit Signature.

LEDs. You can remove the bulbs inside the instruments and use whatever color LED light you like.

Phil, you might think you're proving that Canadians are tougher by working on cars outside in the winter, but Americans are just smart enough to do maintenance in their garages.

I found that many people aren't able to go or don't want to go to the regular meetings. I go to the meetings except when I'm out of town on business. By the way, Caffeine & Octane might be another opportunity to meet up.

I bought a bunch of Home Depot unassembled cabinets when I was moving into my current home, along with an 8 foot countertop. It works well for me.

I could be up for that some time.

I'm glad I could contribute to the cause. One man's trash is another man's treasure.

Or get a CO analyzer. The advantages are not having to weld a bung to the exhaust, the ability to use it on more than one car, and the meter is integrated with the sensor. The advantage of the oxygen sensor is that you can easily get readings under load with datalogging tools, such as an oscilloscope.

Alignment, inflation of tires, short-shifting (aka granny shifting), easy on & off the gas. Check your mileage after that. If you want to go deeper, research using a carbon monoxide meter to tune. All other factors being held constant, minimize CO = better fuel mileage.

You'll have to provide a LOT more information than that. Did the starter turn? Did you check for spark? Will the car start with starting fluid? Does your battery voltage drop significantly when you try to start the car, etc., etc., etc.

You don't have a charge lamp. If the ammeter is pointing to the negative, that is the same as the charge lamp.

Carl, I haven't contacted Frostfighter myself, but I would speculate that the issue is too little resistance. The current flow through the grid is inversely proportional to the width, left to right (on a typical setup) and proportional to the number of elements. When I measured the rear window, I measured left to right, not thinking that with the 1970, you might want to go top to bottom. You might want to take some measurements and contact them. They can probably give you a rule of thumb about current flow through the grid.

Wouldn't that be like Toyota/Scion? They design a car they think will lure in the younger generation, and a bunch of us old farts want to buy it.

Carl, did you ask Frost Fighter about the minimum width of the grid? Their FAQ lists 38 inches, and our cars have a rear window that is not that wide.

I showed pictures to my wife. She and I both like it. However, I just bought a V-6 Mustang this spring as a commuter car, so I won't be in the market for a new car any time soon. It's the first Toyota that I would really want since the last Supra.

Phil, do you remember the thread you started about doing the fuel pump after the ZX conversion? This is the solution.

Seeing Phil's post reminded me of something VERY important here. Your fuel pump uses the alternator output for power. It is wired between the alternator & voltage regulator. A diode in the right place would keep that functionality intact. Otherwise your fuel pump will be hot all of the time.

I could eventually tell you, but I'd need to do a little research first. Sorry, it won't be in time for you to go to work.

Did you try to bleed out the clutch after you added fluid? If you didn't, you were probably just moving air bubbles. As for the FSMs, look at my signature. The link is there.

How much do you want to bet that the OP will need to replace the slave cylinder? If you replace that, replace the master cylinder at the same time. By the way, download a copy of the FSM. It has troubleshooting guides that can help if you take the time to read them.

Have you tried calling?

I'm sure it's worth the drive just to get away from New Jersey.