SteveJ

Yes, I own that one. It functions much like the Power Probe, but it costs less.

Here's another one. I haven't see the Fluke 88V near this price in over 6 years: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-88V-1000V-Automotive-Multimeter/dp/B000WTB67K That one will do most anything you need a multimeter to do on a car, including dwell angle (calculated from duty cycle). There are also other Fluke multimeters on sale. They aren't cheap, but I'm still using a Fluke I got around 25 years ago. The Autel PowerScan is a Prime Day deal, too - https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Automotive-Electrical-Resistance-Continuity/dp/B0BW48DKFG You can use it to measure voltage and even energize a circuit. That can be handy for diagnosing a circuit.

Here are a couple of deals on products that I own and like: Haisstronica ratcheting crimpers with various dies - https://www.amazon.com/haisstronica-6PCS-Crimping-Tool-Non-Insulated/dp/B0BJVH4J6Q I've used those a lot on open barrel terminals (6.35mm, 2.8mm, YPC). They also work well crimping the metal splices I have used in repairing wiring. TopDon thermal camera - https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-TC004-Mini-Handheld-Resolution/dp/B0F29969G1 I almost forgot to add this toolset that I got to throw in the back of my Z or carry in my truck - https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Piece-Mobile-Tech-GWCBMTS54P/dp/B0G5YS9JKQ

The blue/white wire is connected to the wire that goes out to the washer pump. In the wiring diagram, that wire is labelled as black/yellow. However, I do not have first hand knowledge if that is correct. You should look for a female bullet connector in the dash harness at the steering column that is not solid black. The wire should be the same gauge as the blue/white wire.

You can see the parts here: https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/e-f-i/fuel-(to-jul-76)

You're not the only one.

Since you used water based cleaning, I suggest rinsing with denatured alcohol. That will help make sure you get rid of residual water.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JC

Um, no. You don't need to be destructive. As I said before, you can remove the drum with "persuasion". I said rubber mallet before, but I should have said dead blow hammer. I have done this on a drum where the shoes were swollen from absorbing brake fluid from a bad wheel cylinder. After a few blows, the drum was working loose. A few more blows made it where I could pull the drum off easily.

If it's fuel starved, it's going to be harder to start.

How fast is the fuel pressure bleeding down?

I don't think the coil is too hot. They have to be able to withstand all of the rapid flux changes involved with generating a spark. That's a lot of energy flowing through it.

Of course, it counts!

Use a rubber mallet and hit the drum between the lugs. Then hit it between the other 2 lugs. Alternate until you can work it off.

Finally took a break from house projects.

Video of the Jaegerbomb

Fresh oil, too.

Are there any signs of a leaking wheel cylinder?

If you are in California, get a pre-test if that's still available. You don't want the car tagged as a gross polluter. Bureau of Automotive RepairSmog Check: When you need one and what's requiredSmog Checks help keep California's air clean and your vehicle running smoothly. Regular inspections check that your vehicle meets emissions standards. They also identify needed emissions repairs, help

Using that logo along with the search terms "clutches" "flywheels" gave a result that it could be Midway Industries. That company is now owned by Centerforce.

As @Captain Obvious pointed out, the beveled area makes the seal. When I was you were installing the temperature sender, I couldn't tell you couldn't tell that it had made full contact since it didn't feel that tight on the housing, so I gave you gave it one more twist, causing the beveled area to push hard against the housing and providing the leverage to break the housing. Of course, this is sheer speculation and not based on ANY personal experience.

ZCarDepot offers the sensor with the retaining nut: https://zcardepot.com/collections/electrical/products/coolant-temperature-sensor-for-gauge-240z-260z-280z-510

I looked through the messages you sent me. I didn't see any photos of the sensor.

Um...NO! Never! Of course, not! Expect the bolts holding the thermostat housing onto the head to be corroded. They may break off long, though. An induction heater can be your friend to get them out.