SteveJ

Check the voltage at the solenoid and at the battery. If it's getting a little low at the solenoid, it might not engage. Also, the back of the ignition switch could be wearing. If that is the case, you can replace it without replacing the whole ignition switch.

I've thought about making one, but with my schedule, thinking is all I can do about it.

Enrique, Here is a write-up that someone posted a link to at one time. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp I think that's what Chris is trying. I have all the ingredients to try it myself, except for one important ingredient: time.

Cool. That was what I was going to try, too. It's good to know that my wild ideas work.

I hope you're planning on using something larger than 16 AWG unless you want to replace some fried wiring. I can't remember for sure, but that white/red is at least 12 gauge. Using 16AWG is about the same as putting in a fusible link. If you add up the loads coming off the switch, you will find that 16 AWG won't cut it.

Don't add one bad kludge to another. The fuses are downstream from the switch. That is to say that the switch is between the battery and the fuse box. Please download the reference I mentioned before. Look at the circuits going to the steering column and ask questions. Several of us have studied the wiring diagrams in detail and are willing to help.

It wasn't by choice. It was for work, and unfortunately, it will require at least one return trip.

What schematic are you using? IIRC the supplement for the 71 has the white/red identified. It's about as close as you'll find for a 70 FSM online. You can download it from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.

That should work.

Have a battery with a disconnect wired in parallel to the charger. Start with the battery & charger and use the disconnect after the current starts flowing. You should have posted this a week ago. I just got back from a trip up to Scarborough. I could have helped you.

What voltage are you using? Are you hooking up the ground, too. The fuel pump uses a voltage divider.

What components in the charging circuit have you replaced lately? Also, for better quality answers, edit your profile to add the year of your car, or put it in each post with a question.

Unless your accessory relay contacts are stuck closed or someone re-wired the accessory circuit, leaving the rear defogger on couldn't drain the battery. As for testing the electrical system, use a multimeter with a 10A range for an ammeter. There is a Klein Tools MM200 at Amazon.com for a reasonable price. You can easily learn how to use an ammeter by searching online. Please note though, that a bad voltage regulator can cause the battery to drain when the car is off. If you look in the EE section of the FSM, you can find the location of the voltage regulator. If you need more of a visual, go to rockauto.com and find the voltage regulator for a 260Z.

You didn't say you needed those, too. Zeddfindings

Search here for TABCO. Unless you're buying fiberglass parts, pretty much all of the body panels will be from them no matter who sells them.

Dave, As you are waking up your Z, you might want to download a copy of the service manual from the link in my signature.

Even with an inertia switch, the fuel pump should have some kind of cut-off when the engine is stalled.

Like this.

FYI, if you still have a voltage regulator in the car, you can wire the (a) fuel pump relay like the factory did. Nissan used two sources for the coil on the fuel pump relay. The first one was from the solenoid for starting the car. The second was from between the alternator and voltage regulator. This way the fuel pump would no longer get power if the engine wasn't turning. If you have an internally regulated alternator, you should look into an oil pressure switch for the fuel pump relay.

Enrique & oranngetang gave you good advice on checking the hazard switch. The turn signals go through the hazard switch. That way, the hazard lights can overrule the turn signals.

You might want to get to know the guys at the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia, too. It might be difficult to get to their meetings for you with DC traffic, but they have other activities where you can meet the members.

The tape will insulate the sender. It needs a path to ground via the engine.

Dave, welcome. I suggest you go to the top right of the page and click on settings. Then you can edit your signature and put the year of your Z there. That way if you post questions, people know which car you're working on.

Distributor cap: Rockauto - Don't they deliver to the Islands? If you don't have a CC, don't they take Paypal? Wiring Harness: Z Specialties. Give Oliver the build date (month/year) that you'll find on the door plate.

Well, someone is blowing smoke up your backside. An ammeter does not have an appreciable current draw.