SteveJ

Yes, but you'll need at least the fuel gauge sender from the 75.

I have a set of those. I actually need them for my 260Z since one is rusting, but I'm not sure I am skilled enough to adapt them.

No, it is not normal.

Somehow I don't think this link will help you too much, but just in case someone in the states has the same idea... http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tumbler I would check eBay, Amazon, etc.

The gauges, vents, etc., stay put. IIRC, the only thing I pulled out of my 73 to put in the cap was the plate between the dash and windshield.

Yes, but be sure to degrease them thoroughly first. I was thinking of trying the tumbler some time and following up with naval jelly to make sure I got out all of the rust hiding in the threads.

Yes, that would be a good way of breaking the circuit down. Don't be surprised if a previous owner used the red/blue wire to do something like provide constant power for a stereo.

The dome light should get its positive from a red/blue wire. The fuse for this wire should be the next to last fuse in the right hand column in the fusebox. (Just to make sure you have the right fuse.) Be sure to check voltage at the fusebox on both sides of the fuse. To check continuity of the wire, here is what I suggest: 1. Remove the fuse from the fusebox. 2. Unplug the dome light from the wiring harness. This will ensure that it's not a bad dome light causing your problems. 3. Measure resistance with an ohmmeter. Don't rely on the buzzer for continuity. It will sound even if the resistance is higher than it should be. 4. Go from the inside clip for the dome light fuseholder to the red/blue wire that the dome light plugged into. The resistance should be only around 0.3 ohms. Make sure you get a copy of the 71 FSM supplement at XenonS30.com if you don't have a paper copy of the FSM. Look at page 30. You'll see the body harness connections. There is a 6 pin connector on that drawing. You'll find it near the passenger kick panel. Make sure it is not corroded and is plugged in securely. Let us know what you find out.

Johnathan, contact Eddie Radatz. He has been working on Z cars for a long time in Kennesaw and probably is familiar with body shops closer to you.

You might see if a radiator shop would repair it.

Most VIN systems are set up only for 17 digit VINs. After all, cars did not exist before 1981.

Yet another reason this website needs a like button. I guess I'll just put in an alien.

Are you sure the heater flap is open on the driver side?

I went to Caffeine & Octane this morning. It was cold, but it's great to be around so many car people. Details

Have you tried spraying in some starting fluid to see if it fires? If it doesn't, it could be spark related. Why do you think it could be flooded? What do the plugs look like?

I hope it went to a good home.

Check again. Read the EF section. From the chart below, taken from the trouble shooting section, it sounds like the AAR, as Captain Obvious suggested. Note that it gives the symptom of "Engine stalls" and several sections to inspect, including the Air regulator system condition. Note 2 below says "Check this item when trouble occurs during warming-up." That sounds like a great place to start. There are also lots of other things it suggests to inspect. Go through the tests. Tell us the results. My guess is that the good Captain or someone else can help you narrow down the culprits if you still can't isolate the problem.

Wikipedia lists the curb weight around 1800 to 2000 lbs for the 85 model.

You might not want to make the video private. By the way, have you bothered to look through the troubleshooting in the FSM?

I think you're referring to Z Nationals, sponsored by Z1 Motorsports.

It could be a bad flasher, a bad fuse, dirty contacts in the switch, a bad hazard switch (It interrupts power to the turn signals.). The turn signal circuit is completely independent of the headlight circuit other than the mechanical lever, so headlight functionality is irrelevant. Do you or a friend know how to use a multimeter? (If yes, I can give you diagnostics.) Did you check the fuse with a meter or just look at it? Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM? it has a wiring diagram.

Hmm, cheaper, just as effective, and I have two Z cars with old springs. This is something I'll have to remember.

Site member Pat Carr has the "competition hood scoop". IIRC correctly, he still has the flattop carburetors, too.

Go to xenons30.com/reference and find the fuel injection bible and FSM for your car. I'm not an expert on 280Z fuel injection, but I would start by looking at the cold start injector. The FSM and fuel injection bible will give you the proper diagnostics to determine whether or not your cold starting system is working properly.

I drove the 260Z to work and to the Georgia Z Club meeting. It's a nice change of pace from the daily driver.