SteveJ

My guess is that it's shorted right where the power wire comes in.

Here's another parts source for you: DatsunParts.COM Inc.- Datsun Roadster Parts

I'm thinking the number will be on the higher side of the 10 to 15 estimate for ZNationals, provided the weather is good. I can name at least 10 people in the Atlanta area that I expect to show up. I'm also going to hang out at track day since it's in my neck of the woods. Anyway, Greg, I think there's an active club in the Chattanooga area. Scenic City Z Club Besides ZNationals, the next ZCON will be in Memphis.

Isn't that overrider bar for the rear bumper? Anyway, who wouldn't want to own a palomino Z?

I removed the front valence from the 74 today. I will probably remove the front bumper while I'm at it. I only broke three bolts. Two of those were on the left turn signal. The left turn signal lens was already cracked, and the removal process finished the job. So I have new lenses and gaskets on order, and the air dam is ready to go on. I guess it's time to put on those stainless steel bumpers that have been hanging around in the garage for about a year.

I would guess that one is for the nitrous oxide and the other is for fuel. Going lean while boosting would be very bad.

The blow characteristics are actually a function of time and current. For instance: Fuse Time-Current Curves - Specialty Control Systems

You can still buy the fusible links: Body - Electrical :: 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Parts (S30) 1970-1978 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com or go to Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home, go to products, and search in the 70-96 range for fusible.

I didn't see anything, either.

You probably installed the battery with the poles reversed. If you are lucky, you only fried the fusible links. Step 1: Buy new fusible links. (Remember there is a 5th link not in this shot.) Step 2: Replace the fusible links. Step 3: Use an ohmmeter to figure out which battery cable is the negative. It will be the one that has about 1 ohm resistance to the chassis ground. Step 4: Mark the negative cable so you remember which one it is. A stripe of colored electrical tape would work nicely for that. Step 5: While having a fire extinguisher close at hand, re-install the battery. Put the positive cable on the positive terminal of the battery. Put the negative cable on the negative terminal of the battery. Step 6: Figure out if you burned up anything else.

One nice thing about buying Dave's relay harness (via Motorsport Auto) is that it's plug and play. I would suggest going that route.

Actually, it looks like you missed Easy Street.

I believe it is 13502-E3000 INDICATOR-TIMING.

No, they are weird things. It's just the current finding an alternate path to ground. It just takes a path you weren't expecting.

Common Rust Area's Of The 240-Z What To Watch For When Buying A First Generation Z Car. General Discussion - Buying A Z Car:

I saw an AMC Eagle in one of the pictures.

I gave that idea some thought, Jim, but there could be a downside. We may get creeped out by Cliff (sightunseen) and Phil (Blue) staring at our shoes.

Supplier of next-to-last resort. (Last resort = reddat due to his pricing) I just looked at a listing for windshield wiper grommets posted by Al (aka Datsun Parts, LLC). While I'm pretty sure he is selling new parts, he also posted a picture of a windshield wiper grommet installed but with a lot of overspray.

I met Eiji when I was a member of the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia. Sometimes he brought some of his interesting toys to the club meetings. I would also see him running his car up and down Prince William Parkway. He is the real deal. I'm not sure who made the original post, though. Whomever it was has not come back since. Guy, aka Diseazed, knows him well.

Be sure to search on this site, too. There are plenty of posts on headlights.

Look at the drawing for the 260Z circuit. The wire colors are the same, but the connectors and fuse locations are a little different. The W/R wire comes off the battery/alternator and goes to the headlight switch. It comes out as a Red wire. The R wire goes to the left & right headlight fuses and comes out R for the right headlight and R/Y for the left headlight. There are two wires that come off each headlight and go back to the high/low beam switch. The R/W wire is for the high beams, and the R/B wire is for the low beams. The switch determines which of those two wires is connected to ground.

Here is another, if I am right: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-490-710/overview/

I thought it was more like these: Amazon.com: AAS Metric Bubble Flare Adapter 271300, 5pcs M10 X 1.0: Automotive

Well, the Delta Z Club landed the 2015 convention, God rest their souls. We're going to have to get some caravans going out to Memphis. I already put the bug in Chad Bartelme's ear about Z1 Motorsports being the starting point for a group to drive up there from Georgia.

Matt, did you see the 240Z on CL? 1972 Datsun 240Z It's near Savannah.