SteveJ

I met Eiji when I was a member of the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia. Sometimes he brought some of his interesting toys to the club meetings. I would also see him running his car up and down Prince William Parkway. He is the real deal. I'm not sure who made the original post, though. Whomever it was has not come back since. Guy, aka Diseazed, knows him well.

Be sure to search on this site, too. There are plenty of posts on headlights.

Look at the drawing for the 260Z circuit. The wire colors are the same, but the connectors and fuse locations are a little different. The W/R wire comes off the battery/alternator and goes to the headlight switch. It comes out as a Red wire. The R wire goes to the left & right headlight fuses and comes out R for the right headlight and R/Y for the left headlight. There are two wires that come off each headlight and go back to the high/low beam switch. The R/W wire is for the high beams, and the R/B wire is for the low beams. The switch determines which of those two wires is connected to ground.

Here is another, if I am right: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-490-710/overview/

I thought it was more like these: Amazon.com: AAS Metric Bubble Flare Adapter 271300, 5pcs M10 X 1.0: Automotive

Well, the Delta Z Club landed the 2015 convention, God rest their souls. We're going to have to get some caravans going out to Memphis. I already put the bug in Chad Bartelme's ear about Z1 Motorsports being the starting point for a group to drive up there from Georgia.

Matt, did you see the 240Z on CL? 1972 Datsun 240Z It's near Savannah.

Yes, Sir. My wife is already planning the trip...me in a Z and her in her air-conditioned station wagon. (At least if there's a swap meet at the convention, the wagon will hold plenty of parts. )

Back 17 years ago, I bought a dash cap for my 73. When I was placing my order, I was warned that 1 of 2 parts would fit. The first one they sent didn't fit. The second fit just fine. Sorry, but I don't have any notes on the details.

Show a picture of the wire and connector in the engine bay.

1. E=Earth=Ground. Typical DC wiring conventions use wire with solid black insulation for circuits connected to ground. Remove the bolt above the E. Slide the ring connected to the black wire over the bolt and put the bolt back. 2. BAT=B. The White/Red wire goes to the battery. 3. Plug it into the T socket on the alternator.

Also, home improvement stores sell closed cell foam for pipe insulation. You have to know what you're looking for because there is usually open cell foam next to it.

And that is the gist of what I put in post #8.

This leads to what I posted earlier. If the concern is to shut off when the engine is not running, the best solution may be to come off the fuel pump relay. IIRC, it will drop out if the oil pressure drops too low. Another possible solution is to use a time off relay connected to the ignition circuit. That way if the car dies while running, you don't immediately lose the lights, but as soon as you turn the car off, the timer would start. That would happen regardless of whether or not the key is removed.

Pictures of the extra parts would be helpful.

It was another Caffeine & Octane Sunday. I love a good excuse for taking the Z out. See the rest...Caffeine and Octane ? August 2014 (154 Photos) | Steve's CARtography

Yes, Julio. I think some 70 Z owners prize them.

Julio, I tried to tell Rob before that the luggage straps could be utilized for extra passengers, but he won't listen to reason.

Actually, you prefer not to have it off the key switch. I don't seem to have a problem about leaving the key in and switched on. Energize a relay off of the fuel pump relay. That's a low current draw and won't affect your fuel pump. Then power the lights through the relay.

Also, if you want exact replacements (and can wait for them), they are available at Courtesy Nissan: Body - Electrical :: 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Parts (S30) 1970-1978 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com. You can also find them at Motorsport Auto Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home

They very well could. Read up before you go: Weather Pack Environmentally Sealed Connectors | Weatherpack Terminals and Seals | White Products Cleveland Ohio.

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is a FUSIBLE link. The wire is different. If you do not use fusible link wire, you could burn up your wiring harness.

No. If you want something that turns off with the engine, You'd probably be better off tapping into a circuit that is energized by the accessory relay.

Wouldn't you know it, they all dried up around here. I hope your move to Raleigh went smoothly.

Before I did my rear struts, I kept applying brake fluid via an oil squirt can around the gland nuts. When I went to take off the gland nuts, they came off fairly easily.