SteveJ

Why do you want to delete the mechanical fuel pump? Why would you need a fuel pressure regulator? Are you planning on installing an aftermarket fuel pump? Usually people delete the electric fuel pump after converting to an internally regulated alternator since the power for the fuel pump relay coil comes from between the alternator and the regulator.

Use a can of dusting air. When the car has trouble running/starting, hold the can upside down and spray the Transistor Ignition Unit. That will cool it down quickly. Also, you can replace the TIU with a GM HEI unit. I think Chas, aka Eurodat, has a thread where he was mounting the HEI inside the TIU.

The Georgia Z Club did a group trip to the micro car museum a couple of years ago. I didn't go with them. I don't remember anybody mentioning a Z car on display. It must have been kept elsewhere.

I'm curious. How did you determine that the vacuum lines were unnecessary?

I'm not sure to whom you refer when you say "they". Enrique glued on the rubber piece, and I did the same. All you have to do is find some rubber tubing, cut off a little piece, trim it to fit, and glue it on. Wait a few hours and enjoy the decreased effort to close doors.

Does the first picture in post #9 not help? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/37755-door-wont-lock.html

How about Vintage Connections? OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha Sorry, I missed where you said you already tried vintage connections. The next choice is Digikey. Invalid Request

Bruce, is this what you're looking for? Datsun 280Z Electric Unit & Switch (1) (From Dec.-'74)

I used Chevette springs cut to size and KYB struts all around. It firmed up the ride and got rid of the bang from the bumps. That's the budget build. Of course, I would only do this if you are mechanically inclined.

PM sent.

You could always buy a working one from me or Dave Irwin.

You might want to look for a source closer than Australia.

There was an earlier thread on this one when it first hit CL.

I was keeping my mouth shut (fingers off the keyboard?) until I was fairly sure. I think the switch you bought is for a ZX. I'm not completely sure about the cross compatibility. I have one sitting around at home along with a Beck-Arnley S30 style switch (Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 201-1179 Key, Lock And Ignition Switch Assembly: Automotive). I haven't tested the style you put in your Z, but I know the Beck-Arnley part works fine since I have it in my 260Z.

1. Do you have a fusible link coming off of the starter and going into the main harness? 2. How long have you owned the car? 3. Did you or a previous owner make any other changes to the electrical system such as replacing the alternator? (I saw the "new" regulator was installed.) 4. Why did you change the voltage regulator 3 months ago? 5. Have you tested your alternator? The multiple system failures (lights, stereo, buzzer, etc.) lend belief that the voltage may have been too high. Corrosion in cables, mixed with higher voltage can create hot-spots, as well. Having an external regulator with an internally regulated alternator can cause problems with voltage regulation.

I know someone in the Atlanta who might be interested. PM me.

Yep. That's the part. I was just too lazy to search for it for my original post. As a matter of fact, Phil, I think you posted that solution in one or more of the threads I have read addressing this problem.

That's only because I spend too much time reading threads here and over at Zcar.com. There have been many similar threads over the past 18 or so years.

Yeah, those switches can show their age after 40+ years. It was just worn out.

Let me google that for you By the way, S130 denotes the platform used for the 280ZX, marketed in the 1979 though 1983 model years. The 1978 model year car was a 280Z, which was based on the S30 platform.

Let me google that for you

Swap to early style fiberglass bumpers, ditching the stock bumper brackets. You'll have to fabricate brackets for the bumpers. Here's a link to how I did it for stainless steel bumpers: 260Z Air Dam and Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars Swap to carbon fiber hood and hatch. Ditch the spare tire.

The electrical pump doesn't pump at the start. No. Yes. Remember, the mechanical pump is the primary pump. The electrical pump was integrated in to deal with issues associated with the flat top carburetors.

I don't think I would look that good in that T-shirt. Does it come in 2XL?

It's probably the same. I have a couple of sets of the Blackdragon squeeges waiting for me to get around to installing them. They look fine to me.