SteveJ

How light do you want? https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-fidanza-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx https://zcardepot.com/products/fidanza-light-weight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=1&_sid=360548d86&_ss=r And don't forget MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/5258/price-drop-kameari-chromoly-performance-street-flywheel-70-83-zzx https://www.thezstore.com/product/3991/high-performance-flywheel-70-83-z-zx-coupe-non-turbo By the way, from what I read the 240mm flywheels have a different bolt pattern. From the ZCarDepot site: New stock replacement flywheel for Datsun 280Z and 280ZX 1975-1983, 2+2 only or Turbo. The 2+2 clutch cover is slightly larger so it has a different bolt pattern. This is a good upgarde from a 2-seater clutch as the 2+2 clutch is larger, but you will need a clutch disk and pressure plate for a 2+2 to work. 2+2= 240mm clutch 2-seater= 225mm clutch

I used this to remove the throw out bearing: https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63610.html Fortunately for me, I bought it with a 20% off coupon. As you may have seen in the video I linked, the guy used a socket and drove out the bearing. I think I may have used a socket at one point, too. Yep, I did use a socket. I drove it out with an impact gun. Then I drove it the rest of the way out with a mallet. Note: you may want to put it on a block of wood when doing that to prevent damage to the collar.

Here's a video of the throw out bearing replacement in a 260Z. Start watching about a minute in. Why do you want to re-use the throw out bearing? Put a new one on.

You didn't ask.

Yep, I made that mistake before, and then I learned of the warning being posted in various places.

I took the 260Z for a drive today. When I stopped for gas, I could smell coolant, though I couldn't find a smoking gun. When I got home, I looked closer, and it appears I may not have tightened some hose clamps when I replaced the water pump. I'm letting the car cool down enough so I can work on the lower clamp on the lower radiator hose.

I couldn't find it on the 72 wiring diagram, so I'm going to assume it was done the same was as is shown in the 73 wiring diagram. The 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat switch and to the driver seat belt switch. If there is a passenger (or heavy object) in the seat, the 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat belt switch. If the belt is not latched, the 12VDC+ will go to the neutral switch. Whenever the transmission is in neutral, the 12VDC+ will go to the seat belt warning lamp.

My diet is more like this these days.

I stepped on a talking scale, and it said, "One at at time!"

Yep, I decided to start the "Stop Putting It in Your Damn Mouth!" diet about a month ago, and I'm down 20 lbs. Getting rid of sugar can do that for you. Now I just have to exercise more. I haven't been working on my Zs lately, but I did put a new stereo in my wagon. Does that count? Anyway, welcome back to the living, John. I hope you have a long stay.

That is not a diode. It is a capacitor referred to as a condenser. That is on internally and externally regulated alternators. It was incorporated to reduce electrical noise for the radio. If you have an older stereo, keep it. If you have a newer stereo, you may not need it.

I think it may be a change in business priorities. I met Steve Richardson over 25 years ago. I believed he was the manager of the parts department & Z enthusiast, and that was the hey day of buying Z car parts from them. I noticed the inventory of unique parts faded after he left. Without a champion in the parts department to support the older cars, it can be a tough sell to continue the effort.

We can hope that temporarily means temporarily. Meanwhile there is still Nissanpartsdeal.com and Nissanparts.cc. You can also try https://www.lynchburgnissan.com/parts/center.htm#parts-lead-form

The difference is where the positive terminal is located.

The compatibility charts are designed for stock replacement. They don't account for things like using a hotter or colder plug. Amazon gives the incompatibility warning when I look for H4 headlight housings for a Z car. However, I can assure you that H4 housings worked in all of the Z cars I have installed them in.

It is a PITA to remove the speedo with a dash cap. You may have to trim the cap with a dremel to get it out the front. I wired up Speedhut gauges in a 280 after the owner mounted them. The issue is that you still need to get the old gauge out. Then you have to decide how far you want to take replacing gauges since some of the ancillary features like the high beam indicator and brake idiot light are in different gauges IIRC. Still I wouldn't discourage the use of Speedhut gauges if you know what you're getting into.

Group 24 batteries are standard. That puts the positive terminal under the inspection door where it belongs. Amongst other reasons, I think the most important reason for keeping it this way is that you should pull the negative terminal off the battery any time you are trying to disconnect the battery for replacement, removal, or servicing the electrical system. I won't put a Group 24F battery in my Z cars, especially after I had a mishap from not securing the battery properly. I also suggest getting a battery with a flat top if possible. I'm pretty sure that the stock battery bracket would work better. I will probably test my theory in the next month or so. Batteries Plus carries this Group 24 battery. It's more than the Walmart batteries, but I found the Walmart batteries to be hit or miss when I use my battery testers. One holds up fine after 2.5 years, and the other registers replace now, though it still has enough power to turn the starter and fire the car.

Not in Arizona, but a friend once sent his tach here: https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/

I think there is an STL file for printing nubbins buried somewhere in this thread:

Nice glow. Does Cody need me to find H4 housings and bulbs for the Goon?

It took me a little time to find it.

Post it in Google Photos as an album, share the album, and post a link to the album. Then I can make it into a PDF.

Well, the person I reached out to has not seen the Jims since Branson Z Fest. That was over 7 months ago. 😟

Don't forget to get a good set of LED headlight bulbs to make those H4 housings work well. I like the Auxito brand. These can be used with or without relays. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-H4-Brighter-9003-Replacement/dp/B0CLG3WZ8S

I would expect the center post would have continuity through the cable, but I could be wrong. You could always set up a test rig to test it out or just buy a new cable and run it through the car. You can get a 20 foot or 15 foot cable on Amazon.