seerex

is the car an automatic?

my pleasure Carl , its kinda hard to beat them

Your Total Annual Cost would be: $90 This quote includes Hagerty Protection Network, click here to learn more Quote Date: 04/13/2004 Hagerty Protection Network Benefits Roadside Assistance Flatbed Towing up to 3 incidents Members Only Website - Online Policy Management - Tips and information from industry experts and fellow members - Legislative Advocacy Quarterly Newsletter - Articles and information from industry experts and fellow members - Legislative Advocacy Coverages for vehicles registered in Florida Applicant Date of Birth 06/13/1969 Liability BI/PD: 10K BI per pers/20K BI per acc/10K PD per acc Uninsured Motorist BI: 10000 per person/20000 per accident non-stacked Medical Payments: $1000 per person Personal Injury Protection: $10000 per accident 1972 Datsun 240z Auto stock with an agreed value of $3500 Other Than Collision: No Deductible Collision: No Deductible I thought so too I actually called them about 10 minutes ago and confirmed the quote and its all true , my brother just called and is switching his right now

Hey all just giving you a heads up on what I found, I switched to a Hagerty insurance for my z and saved almost 500 bucks , my z with gieco with just basic no collision was 275 every 6 months , I just signed up with hagerty < i had kept seeing their ads on speedvision > and got FULL coverage including collision and higher limits and payout value of 3500 <geico was like a grand > and towing too for $90 a year, and no I don't work for them , just wanted to try and save you guys some bucks www.hagerty.com

I am sure this will go higher but still nice http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470501431&category=43955

congrats on the purchase, I think someone else mentioned make a to do list for it basics first and then get a complete manual for the car, most every question can be answered here in the threads , the shifter is bushings by the way , with your todo list make a list to buy , then watch ebay and junkyard to find the goodies, good luck

hhm not my cup of tea

like the ideal Rob , I am sure it would help any potiential buy of any Z , love to see a checklist so to speak , and pics of things we know would be suspect < floor pans> and what they should look like and just basic info , its all here on the site just in diffrent threads , I am willing to donate a pic of my pans to show what not to buy , but agree with most all on its buyer beware and if a person does not research their purchase before putting out their money that their own loss , I think if you expect the worse and hope for the best that all you can expect from ebay

if the car hasn't been moved from where you started it in the driveway and you washed it , assuming you have the vented hood on your 280z dare I say give it a bit to dry and try again , you might have an exposed wires or connection , check the dizzy and make sure it is clean and dry , good luck

If the timing has been set correctly and the points as well, check the carbs to make sure there is fluid in the domes and check the sync of the opening of the two carbs , doesn't sound like a carb tuning would hurt but make sure the basics are there first , but not compression , good luck

get a honda civic fan worked great in my 72, several thread show the years that work and such 15-20 bucks on ebay

I agree on the cost of the motor parts but jeez , picked up my 72 from a guys driveway for 450 it ran 2 days later < not well but ran> still getting the bugs out but how much money would you have in the roof , hatch and god knows with no pic of the inside steel of the car, much rather have a rust free or atleast more steel than rust to start, with than having to put a motor in if he get 2500 i will be very surprised even for florida where a rust free z is like finding a virgin after prom night, pretty damn rare

well gonna be interesting to see if it gets any bids

hhm gotta watch this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469546082

just thought I would pass on a good place to get your fuel tank refinished, Complete Radiator in orlando , they charge between 130 and 165 roughly mine was 150 and they did another friend of mines z tank recently and I was very impressed, good luck

the basic diffrence in the 240 /260 and 280 motors is size in liters the 240 being 2.4 liters and so on , but the carbs are key on the motors the best being the 4 screw round tops su's and the 3 screw round top su's basicly the same , the 260 and 73 240 had a flat top hitachi which are not recommended , or you had the 280z fuel injection which has its pros as well , some people prefer the su's and some prefer the FI but as far as the basic block set it its mainly size , good luck , check for the cancer all over the car , floor pans rails and under the battery tray , also under the hatch ,

seems a bit pricy for a 280z and alot of the info that was posted on previous listings of this car made alot of the people on this site question the knowledge of the owner and what he was truly selling, I would only buy it based on what a nice 280z would go for and nothing more , but just my 2 pennies:geek:

I also recommend researchig threads reguarding adjustment of the valves , there a few breakdowns of every aspect of it , you might find reasons for your issues , hope it cures your noises

I had the same situation a long time ago , best fix or semi fix i could come up with was the weatherstripping at home depot , I know sound redneck but it fixed the prob and didn't look bad , only prob was the seal that was joining where the two ends met , I used a silicon sealer for that , good luck

you both are in our thoughts and prayers , stay positive and god bless

my brother and I will try to be there , may not have both z's there:cry: still not finished with one , but gonna bring the digital camera to get more ideals

before pulling the head , which maybe needed anyway , I would pull of the cam oiler rod the bent thing , held on by two bolts clean and straighten it , use canned air and carb cleaners you will see little holes all down it and these must be clean and flowing freely , and then get your valves adjusted, if the oiler tube is unable to be straightened replace it either with used or new but it must be fixed , 2many is probably right but the time to fix and clean the oiler tube and adjust the valves will give a chance to decide how much you want to put in it and won't cost you a bunch

if you haven't already mark and remove the hood , and other than basics take plenty of pics with the digital camera , wiring , plumbing , fuel hoses , anything that could go back in anyway other than the right way , good luck