seerex

I am sure I am adding nothing new to the thread but here are my two pennies, start by removing and cleaning the fuse box and any connections including the ones at the starter it self , recheck the alternator current output and it connections and if you can up grade to a max or other nissan higher output alt , but remember to put in the bridge for it, I would remove the stereo and check it for shorts as well , but if the battery is fully charged and the alternator is giving its recommended output there is a short or a drain somewhere , I am sure this has been done but if not spray all majors grounds with contact cleaner and make sure they are clean like with a wire brush or sandpaper, my old 240 used to do the same thing but I had several amps in the car, hope you find the issue

hmm great car to start with for a killer ride http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2482359792&category=6187 know its not lotto money right now but i bet i would have every bit of 35-40 k after i was done

just reminds me of bad taste

the ansa is still availiable with msa and bv , the welds are probably best gotten at a drag shop

personally i would tear it all down and test and clean before taking for another spin brakes that is

i believe those are called welds pretty common at the drag strip and custom and not very expensive

sounds to simple but will try

could only guess the sending unit might be going , or it gave a false reading , but I would think it would give you a false reading of zero pressure instead of overly high

the jets are brand new , they are from british victoria and apprear to be exactly what ztherapy has sent me, I am also running the stock fuel pump , mechanical, well gonna play with it a bit today and see what I can do

OK after getting my tank and new lines < fuel > I have developed a overflow that doesn't want to shut off when the float is raised, when I start the car it runs fun without the choke but after 5-10 second the back car closest to the firewall start pouring out gas from the overflow valve and also from the inside where the piston is? would the stuck open valve cause this to happen as well? also does anyone have a pic of their float ? I adjusted mine perfectly , not sure how it got out of adjustment but when the float lifts it touches the bottom of the valve but gets kinda stick on the flat bottom of it , should I sand down the bottom to make it round? , I know alot of questions here , but about to take my bat to the carbs

thought that was the same

I have seen the us one how much diffrent is the aussie one? Also has anyone seen or have a japanese sales catalog http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35935&item=2249849038&rd=1

no shipping???? Carl I don't think you should try to pick her up

honestly , you best investment is a video from z therapy , they have the basics tuning and its wonderful , you can also search for suggestions and such but the 15 or so bucks is worth its weight in gold for me , also get a sync tool , great investment http://www.ztherapy.com

here ya go http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php

I belive the car is the 240sx use its brake calipers with adaptor plates , then u use 280zx rotors , I will search for the link , there is a company that makes the plate as well as the whole set for z cars

THE UPDATE : well went to a marine store wanted to charge me 3.79 a foot for hose , told them where they could store that hose, decided to order all the hoses from Chloe < thank you for being a great help with my car> . I replaced the sending unit which for future info goes in with the black ring connection at the top , and I replaced every line and clamp from the head of the motor to the tank itself excluding the filler tube < looked good> , and get this I fired it up after a 2-3 month sitting and it ran like a raped ape < no expierence in this matter just a great term I thought> but quickly saw I had a new issue , the float on my rear carb had stuck thus giving me the pretty and very dangerous gas fountain , took the float apart and I see the shutoff valve sticks as the float rises < rebuilt them with bv inexpensive rebuild kit> ordered new ones from Z therapy as well as other things , so hopefully I will be roadworthy soon

try any nissan key , many fit my 72 sentras and others

Thanks Rick I appreciate the help , I might actually be posting a pic of a running 240z soon atleast more than 25-30 running , used to die after that amount of time , how did the sunroof search go?

Hey Mates , I have a strange request for ya , can I get some links to australian auto/truck parts websites . Specifically ford , I have a friend that wants ford f-250 tail lights from australia. We have had very little luck searching the web and ford dealer in the states won't help. I appreciate the help, I realize it is not z related but this is the only place I thought i could find help with the matter overseas. Thanks Again Seerex

I am curious do you think I could use a brass or metal fitting to make the 180 or maybe just 90 and try to make it work? and anyone with the fule sending unit , none of my books specify which way it goes in as in up or down ,

Rick, I sent you an email, I think I found the german company for the sun roof , I don't understand german very well , I know they didn't mention anything about beer or where the redlight district was in the webpage , I think either a older jag or bimmer roof rubber might work or be able to be made to work , good luck and would love to see the end result , Jeff

thank you I will call napa and see a boat place on tuesday , I can't wait to get it in there finally

I went to several parts stores and no one had the fuel lines in the diameter that was required that was my first plan

Ok guys I got my tanks back from the shop a while back and its all new looking and pretty , I also ordered a new sending unit , is there a way of knowing which direction it goes as in up or down? Also 2nd question the vent system lines<rubber ones> I know the 3 main ones I had were rotted so badly they broke apart when trying to remove, these line are the only non new item for the tank due to the roughly $170 for all three , any suggestions or am I out of luck and just have to spend it? Has anyone used univeral hose or heater hose or know any alternatives? Thanks