seerex

I agree with the coil or fuel pump switch in addition to an alarm , that will protect you from most thieves, the pro won't be concerned with that < nor much of anything else> and unfortunately if a pro wants it they will get it , if you watch where you park it most of the time alarms will be enough , as well as the time issue finding a cutoff switch to deter most , took a class on the subject it was most depressing, best thing to do is hide the switch in a spot where when starting the car regularly it isn't an unusual act to activate it , or as stated before hide it as another switch , that way if you are being watched they have an ideal that there is a switch for one and two where your abnormal movements can point them towards its location, in Cali lojack works well but here in fla there are so few tracking units being used its almost useless, love to see some post with pics if anyone draws anything up for a z , can't always carry my AK-47

new to my car , but a used dizzy , can a parts place test them? I am hoping to try everything before dropping the tank , I am gonna try to test the module and maybe wrap the fuel lines , anything but drop the tank , i have 1/2 tank of fuel and tried to drain it with no luck , will let you know Jeff

also I have removed the water lines for the intake , hhm reading up on the vapor lock , sounds like it but the motor runs so cool and the engine compartment is cool also whe u open the hood, still lost :stupid: don't want to drop the tank but looking that way or might try wrapping th fuel lines

it has a new coil , and it had the same issue before the new ignition, so what causes vapor lock , when it was ran and it did this it was like late 60's early 70 in tempreture, I wasn't sure if the climate would affect that?

Thats how I feel, ok 72 240z , it run great for a bit then starts to spit and sputter then dies, I can get it warmed up and drive it around the block a few times it seems to be about 20 minutes of running before it quits , rebuilt carbs , new vacume hoses ,new fuel pump and filter, 280zx electronic dizzy , timed correctly , I ran the car from a gas tank<portable> for a bit and it did the same thing died while from an alternate source, so I was think it wasn't the gas tank, and if you wait a few minutes like 15-20 then it will fire up and run run for a few then do the same thing , after it dies when you try and start it again it runs like the points are bad , spitting and almost firing on 4 cylinders , just hoping for new insight to what it might be , running out of stuff to fix other than dropping the tank and having it dipped , any thoughts would be appreciated , Thanks JEff:disappoin

its called a gtech pro , pretty kewl little device

I was in the same boat you were recently , I just started with a test light and moved from the battery onwards or if you like from the dizzy back , I found alot of my issues were corroded and loose connections, good luck

the hanes books are helpful but not great , some of them in the back have a the wiring diagram like you looked at , I would start looking for the wiring color codes , should narrow down the search quickly as well as trace the wires where they come in from the window units in the doors there should be a boot that covers them in the jam , follow from there, sorry could be more helpful

Carl if I had a set I probably wouldn't leave the house for atleast a few months

hhm got a 19 , thinking I should take up breastfeeding as a hobby

Congrats glad to hear you got it back ,

if yours is a rust free one I would try and find a used motor and put it in yourself , not sure how mechanical you are but just my 2 cents

truly a rich redneck fishin boat just need one big arse ford truck to pull it

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11033&highlight=iron+cross this is it good luck , post some pics when you get them finished ok

Fever , there was an earlier thread titled ironcross I think , but they showed them painted with red and black paint as well as just red or black and an awsome polished set, you might want to look for it , Jeff

Rick I sent you a pm with the site its an 18 up one glad you enjoyed , Jeff:geek:

Just a funny for the guys down under ,

Craig , i have read numerous threads mostly leading to the same ideal, better to sell the parts you have and go with su's 12.9 is hard to beat , the triples are wonderful for a built motor and sound wonderful , but eat alot of gas <if thats a concern of yours> are not cheap to buy and not easy to get tuned correctly. But again they sound wonderful and you have all the gas you could ever need going into the motor, so its your money

there is a 74 260z list for lot 26 , like to see it gets

brazil has a navy?

if you have the flat top su units get a set of 3 or 4 screw units and just rebuild them, much better result than the holley or any 4bbl carb set up, good luck:geek:

got 8/10 but either way you don't lose

thank you 2many

The place i got mine was a local import place called triangle , gonna look for the receipt to make sure but I know it wasn't in the 25-35 range. I find alot of parts on msa are cheaper at a good import parts place, but don't count on finding hard to find stuff, thats where I count on them .

May I ask what year max did you get it from? I assume it had to be from a manual maxima as well?