26th-Z

The H signifies either L24 engine or L28 engine - yes. The L signifies left-hand drive

Wow! You guys need to go back to school. A GS30 is a right-hand drive Fairlady ZL 2+2 with an L20 engine - 1974-1975. An HS30 is a right-hand drive 240Z of various trim with an L24 engine - 1972-1973. An HLS30 is a left-hand drive 240Z with an L24 engine - 1969-1973. This information is in the parts Cd, available for sale on this site. Also, a "best" reference is Brian Long's; "Datsun Z, Fairlady to 280Z". That was a cool link. Seems like a club went to the trouble of documenting a bunch of different models. It is not all that accurate and makes for a nice "spotters guide" discussion. Don't think the cars shown are all stock original examples.

I have '70 manuals as well as parts books. I still don't understand what is being asked in this thread. So far, I have seen several different model numbers of Hitachi / SU carburetors discussed. Some technical specifications have been discussed. But "part numbers" keep coming up and I don't understand why we just don't look up the carbs in the parts books like the one sold on this site. I figure everyone has one of those? The part number for the HJG46W-3A assembly that fits on the North American import 240Z up to 8-71 is 16010-E4301. Is that what you are asking for?

Just yesterday, I responded to an inquiry on the IZCC list referring to this thread. I have had several conversations with other members from this site about the issue and we all have our ideas, but I believe (from all indications) the issue is over. BTW: I have a number of MidwestZ collector edition business cards. :cheeky:

Michael, Ztherapy has all this info. http://www.ztherapy.com/

Thanks for the link, Victor.

My simpathy, Will. I got ripped by Jim Edwards of North Carolina for a $350 set of wheels. His name is all over Zcar.com and I filed a complaint with the post office. Last I heard, there was a warrant, but I don't know.

MSA sells Earle's stainless steel brake hoses. First class hoses.

Depending on what you are looking for.... Motor Sport Auto (MSA) and Victoria British (VB) are the two top general suppliers with catalogs. Check out the "used parts" thread running on the forum now. New metal comes from Zedd Findings, TABCO, VB, and Mills Supply. Repro rubber parts (excluding weatherstrip moldings) from Banzai and CyberSanford. Of course, don't forget your good old local Nissan dealer.

25% Racer X Fun survey!

The twins send their greetings from green land and say that the stupid guy who owns them thinks a red Z is stunning. Of course, yellow has always been popular. Isn't it great how a car that just blew the British sports car market in the weeds was painted BRG?

Full agreement

ZG nose kit on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7934285765&category=33640 I know it is not the real mcCoy, but....

I concur. Grab it. It is worth much more in parts alone, but VERY worth restoring - just fixing up. Check out this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=107305#post107305

Hey! Craftsman tools are just fine! However, WD 40 and a 10mm wrench are not. PB Blaster and a flare nut wrench. This nut is securing a hydraulic line under pressure. It is supposed to be extremely tight.

Three sheets to the wind On a dully

Only you would recognize a bullet hole, Vicky! Welcome to the club and salutations from Her Majesty the 26th and Princess 27! Your '71 is quite the rare looking bird. Do a file search in the archives for "vinyl tops" and "options". We have had quite a time with the rare options. More pictures, please!

We should do our own show.

Clear coat should work! But Vicky is talking about something entirely different. There are show cars that aren't driven and there are clean drivers that are shown. World of difference. Cars competing on the level of Zrush and Ol Yeller are show cars and their stickers must be "as original" because that is way the game is played.

Thank goodness I had the foresight to buy hupcaps several years ago. I have two sets of the later style - choice - perfect - and I only paid $125 for all eight of them. Actually nine, I sold one to Chloe for $75 about a year ago.

They look great.

I have never tried it before installing the glass. Doesn't sound right for some reason. But I will agree that they are a PITA part to install.

They are a little rough. Worried about the dents. The surface rust inside won't damage the look of them when they are re-chromed and painted again. The plastic Ds look only ok. Hopefully they won't need to be re-plated. By the time you have $200 each in those caps for the restoration they need, they will look as good as the $300 new ones from a few weeks ago. I agree with the "Buy it Now" price of $150. I'm surprised they have lasted this long. It is 5pm here in Florida. They won't last the night. It's "Sunday Night at the Auctions"!