YZFMax

My kids picked up a 3D printer over the holidays, so I thought I try to figure it out and learn how to use it. I just happened to be replacing the rubber wipes on the door window trim, and noticed there were no end caps. Not sure if this is how the car came, or just went missing over the years. I downloaded FreeCAD and started to play around with it. After a lot of youtube videos, I was able to design and print some caps. Haven't installed them on the car yet to confirm the overall fitment, so hopefully no issues. I used PLA filament for the sample pieces (it's the only one I have at the moment). If these work out, I will pick up some ABS filament and reprint them.

Merry Christmas everyone!

I used the same place to get my high lift kit about 10 years ago. It was a high quality kit and the instructions were decent. This was my first attempt at upgrading my garage door and it turned out very well. I also added a jackshaft garage door opener which is a must if you're taking this route.

Another one for Bandpak. Had the lift for about 5 years now and it's been trouble free. Really helps when working on the car. If you have the headroom, go for it. My garage ceiling is 11ft high and just enough to clear the Datsun and my Mustang.

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely look into this, specially the inertia switch.

True, but for me this is a temp solution until I convert the carbs to EFI. Then the ECU will be used to control the fuel injection relay.

I think I found a solution for the fuel pump relay: Fuel Pump Safety Switch (revolutionelectronics.com) This should address the safety concern with the fuel pump staying on if the engine unexpectedly shuts down. If the system does not sense a signal from the tach, then it will cut off the power to the fuel pump. With this, I should be able to run a direct connection from the ignition switch to the starter (via a relay), and eliminate both the interlock and the dual factory fuel pump relays.

This helps and does put me in the right direction. Thanks!

Interesting.... the previous owner also indicated that he added a fuel pump relay, so now I will have to trace this back. Thanks for the heads up!

Bringing this thread back up as I'm also experiencing similar issues. I was reviewing the wiring diagrams for the 260Z interlock and comparing it to the 240Z wiring diagram for the starter. The 240Z basically has a direct connection from the ignition switch to the starter motor, there is no interlock unit or relays. Has anyone tried doing this to the 260Z and bypassing the interlock, seat belt and emergency switch altogether? I would be adding a starter relay in between the ignition switch and the starter motor. Seems like the previous owner already disconnected the seat belt relay, so this is already being bypassed.

This is good to know, thanks!

I just picked up an intake manifold from a 280z for $50. I will be taking out the old components and adding a fuel rail which I also purchased. I'm starting to collect the parts and hopefully start the project next fall. I will be using the Microsquirt for the ECU.

Perfect, this helps! Thanks!

Interesting, this is the hose that runs through the carbs?

I have plans to convert my 260z to FI in the near future and need to find a solution for the coolant temp sensor. I found the following adapter which looks interesting, and seems like a decent option without having to change around the thermostat housing. Has anyone here used this for their FI conversion? https://www.amazon.ca/Mishimoto-MMWHS-34-BK-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter/dp/B00860GH8A

I had the exact same issue, ended up being a bad fuse connection. Seems like over time, the connections became a bit lose, so I pressed them in to create a tight fit for the fuses. This resolved the issue.

Your build looks great. Hope to see you on the road someday.

There is someone selling butterscotch interior parts here in Toronto: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/mississauga-peel-region/datsun-240z-butterscotch-interior-parts/1504501019?undefined Just fyi

I also have a 260z with the dual weber setup. I took the car out for a spin for the first time this season, and my sentiments were exactly the same. Found the car to be underpowered and slow in accelerating. When I spoke to the local Datsun performance shop, he referred to the 260z motor as boat anchor. He basically said that it won't be easy getting power out of these motors, and not worth the effort to even try.

Correct

Installed the dash this weekend. Overall, it's a great fit and had no issues with the fitment. I have to say, this is a high quality reproduction. The wiring was all labelled before I removed the dash, so it was just a matter of plugging it into the right connectors. While I had the dash out, I also installed the power steering unit and wired this up. Double checked all my connections and wiring and fired up the car. Everything worked including the power steering. So this had been a very productive weekend. Next weekend I'll complete the centre console, trim and install the bluetooth amp.

I would be interested in a 260z/280z set if they do come up with them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GPS sensor should also work for you. I have the power steering kit from Silver Mine and in the product description, they provide a link on using the sensor as an alternative to the speedo potentiometer. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273893193044 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From Silver Mine motors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk