Blitzed

I agree "crap" I did remove it but I met a freak who's going totally original/ stock with his engine. I'm selling the tube, emission components are a must for the buyer. so need to return the component's the way I removed them. That's the challenge. My engine is EFI :). California is not requiring smog on exempted vehicles, the way they're going to get us is huge annual registration cost to drive the mass polluters, it's coming soon.

Hi All, Happy 2024, Hope all is well. Another DA who took apart a stock balance tube with pics and still can't figure out where everything mounts. N33 tube L28 .Even with the FSM manual, I seem to have a couple valves not sure where / how they mount to the tube? First image What this? Fast Idle for Air con? Where does it mount? Second image , have two valves very similar one mounts on the tube where does the other mount? Both have the same two hole mount bracket? Thank you,

As a new owner of a 240Z (2018) it amazes me when I meet a original owner of a Z purchased new and beloved for 50+ years. Several owners at ZCON had similar stories. Hagerty posted a story of a 240Z owner, check it out on Hagerty site, weekend road trips. https://www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/original-owner-a-navy-sailor-returns-home-to-a-new-datsun-240z/?

ZCON produced some incredibly Z builds, can you say 240Z GTR AWD. Not for the purest but pushing the envelope on what's possible with our beloved Z's. The event was assume great people, great events and great Z's. The hosting club and affiliates put together a assume week long event.

Kit includes the rail? I'm in. Running single coil sequential now but the EFI distributor allows conversion to COP or batch. Let me know when the kits are available.

Hi All, Trying to correct the vibration feedback in the Z's steering wheel is one of those problems you can chase down a rabbit trail and add additional dollars redoing services, unless you find the correct service / shop. Drove the Z to Solvang, CA this past weekend for the Datsun Roadster Classic (they include Z in the show), 340 mile round trip drive and the steering wheel vibration at 60+ drove me crazy the entire 300 + mile drive. Below 60 MPH puts you in the slow lane/ truck lane on the highway's which is also the roughest lane on the highway which compounded the issue. Took the Z to Nate Jones Tire in Signal Hill CA today. Wow, what an eye opener. Nate is an 80 years old, racer, builder and great resource. The service included truing the wheel (rim and tire) on the car. Frist tire pressure, Nate knew the Z's stock suspension was designed with a tire pressure rated at 28lbs max. I was running 36lbs on 205. Tires have too pressure for the suppression. He knocked the fronts down to 26 and rears to 28. Suggested with the mass of the tire, could run as low as 24 in the fronts and 26 in the rears for (dry) highway travel, track add 4lbs front and back. Next removed and rotated all tires with the valve steam to line up over a stud location. This became the static mounting location for the wheel, on and off, must mount in this location ,no future rotation. until the tire is shot Jacked the front up and rolled a custom machine (looked like a lawnmower base) and attached to front tire. Hit the inside edge of the rim lip with a small grinding blade, knocked down any shimmy / wobble imperfection in the wheel (rim) during rotation. Next trued the tires. We all let our cars sit for extended periods, this can create flat spots that will cure it self over time and miles. The equipment shaved grooves in the tread (top not side wall) and trued or rounded the tire. Next rolled another unit to the tire and applied a counter weight ring on the outside of the rim. Than rotated the tire and wheel (on the car) at high rpm. With a several feelers hitting the rim edge inside and outside and a strobe light he picked up the balance position of the wheel and tire at high RPM. Applied weights. The end result, vibration in steering wheel gone, vibration in car gone and a quieter cockpit. Great experience with I fear is dying expertise.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The issue is defiantly rotational, as above 70mph it begins to fade, still there but not as strong. Just have to drive 80mph all the time :). Found the shop to fix the issue. Lucked out and found two guys running a shop who came from the aerospace industry. Designed wheels and tires for NASA vehicle's and speed record cars in Bonneville. Walk into the shop (tiny old building) and they just finished a week at the Long Beach grand prix truing wheels and tires. https://www.natejonestire.com/ They listen to my story and said you're battling unsprung tension? The service is cheaper than new tires, will report back after.

Yeah, the rabbit trial has been long and expensive redoing parts/service twice in two years, new wheel bearings, nope, new tie rods, nope, reset the tension rod preload, nope, rebalanced the wheels and tires (counter), nope. realigned front end, nope. Every suspension bushing was replaced 2020 (rubber). took the car to Mike's Z shop, owner drove the car on the freeway, inspected the front end on a rack for a week, could not find a issue that would cause the shimmy. Only part untouched, the rack. Will check the hub trueness.

Hi All, Done everything I can, shimmy is still there at 55mph+ . Had wheels and tire counter balanced and now have weights on the inside and outside dia of the wheel, not good. Suggestion was replace the tires with a softer compound. Currently running 205 60 R15 BFGoodrich Advantage T/A Sports. For those who's shimmy went away with new tires, what brand and model did you go with? Don't need the size, just the tire brand and model. Sucks to waste the dollars on a new set of shoe's after only 700 miles. Thanks for the info.

this maybe the same question but does the front edge of the seal sit up against the inner bearing or is there a slight gap between the bearing back and the front lip of the seal? Inner hub has a lip above the bearing race and seal stops at this point. With the seal at this point the inner bearing can still wobble. Is this correct?

Hi All, 73 240Z 5 speed WR, R200 and ZCG CV axles (no U joints on the shafts) Experiencing thumping / vibration sound from mid to rear of the car at 45+ MPH and the thumping/ vibration sound gets more rapid as speed increases. Leaning towards the drive shaft U joints? under the car for inspection, rotating the drive shaft there appears to be play/slop not sure if this is normal? Any other test to determined if the DS U joints are compromised? Both joints have zerk fittings and are well greased. All other components in the rear have been replaced in the past two years, suspension bushings, wheel bearings and seals, R200 rebuilt, new diff mount, mustache bar bushing, springs, struts, brakes, wheels and tires. Thank you.

Also wondering if the type of bushing replacements adds to the overall (what if?) with larger wheels and tires. I went all new rubber bushing with stock suspension components as opposed to Polly. check the center hub opening on your aftermarket wheels. Make sure your wheel is seating flush on the hub plate. The stock hub has a 1/8" lip at the lug mount plate. you may have to grind the inside edge of the hub wheel opening to clear the lip on the stock hub for a flush wheel to hub mount.

Siteunseen, Did you have the steering wheel shimmy? If so did these lugs help with the shimmy?

Chasincats, Can you buy a lug nut for Konig rewinds that have a straight shaft (non accorn) with a beveled washer? Do not want to drill out the wheel opening.

Wheel has the same countersunk bevell and the lug nut. Sold with the wheels.

Ownallday, Where are you with the vibration? Did you find and solution? My 73 240Z with the entire front and rear suspension replaced all new rubber bushings, new tie rods, new wheel bearings ,ball joints, new shocks and springs, new polly bushing on the rack and steering coupler, Konig Rewinds 15 x 7 and new BF Goodrich TA 205/60/15. Rebalanced and re-aligned, twice. Steering wheels vibrates at 45- 50 MPH. The only part untouched is the rack, original to the car, no play in the steering. Prepping the car for a 300 mile highway drive, it may shake apart along the route 🙂 I'm going to throw more money and time at it and replace the wheel bearings, again. How many folks on the site did wheel bearings fixed the shimmy problem? Thanks

Duffy, Very cool, let me know the overall advantages with the Haltech ECU / tune. Hopefully DBW will fix the idle gain (after hot) and cold start set-up. I'm done throwing money at the EFI conversion, will stick with the stock throttle linkage /set -up. Planning a 300+ mile drive (round trip) on the new set-up end of April to Solvang, CA for the Datsun Roaster Classic, multi day event. Engine is self tunning (fuel map) at this point, hopefully will gain some corrective data on the top end of the fuel map, highway travel. Zooter71 - Ditto Duffy's comments. If I had to do all over again, would spend the initial dollars on a tunning course, HP or other. Money well spent.

two cents, ebay and other market places maybe losing inventory / listings of good/rare parts with all auto brands. 1099K required on a single/accumulative sales $600.00 (to release the funds). That's capitalism for you in the US, the Fed's involved in your depreciated/appreciated 50 year old parts. Wonder when they'll get around to tracking your overall purchases/dollars spent on the these platform? Moved away from these market places to local clubs and communities, cash and carry. Making discovery of good parts more difficult.

Hi All, Purchased the Speedi sleeve and a Nissan front crank seal. Read posts on the life cycle of aftermarket crank seals. You defiantly can see the wire pattern from the seal in the groove on the shaft. You can also see where the seal was sitting on the shaft, not sure the seal was flush with the cover? Any other trick or methods (other than heat and cold) for the sleeve pressing process? Thank you for all the info.

Never easy, Thank you. With the added thickness same crank seal required?

Thanks Siteunseen, visual is great as I'm peering through the timing cover crank hole. Got it, so important to part lubrication. The dampener looks in go shape but I wouldn't know what is damage or bad. No movement, solid. Is the groove on the back sleeve suppose to be there or is this wear?

Hi All, Which direction does the oil thrower / slinger reinstall. Cup back or cup forward. Did not pay attention when removed. Read posts you can remove the oil thrower / slinger. What is the purpose of the part? keep oil off the seal?

Yeah, don't reinstall with the hosing original slot position, speedo doesn't work. Job is always better the second time 😞 Thanks for the info and confirmation.

Hi All, Another general maintenance question. The engine developed the dreaded crank seal leak, fling oil all round the engine bay, good times. Question: The current crank pully is a triple pully (see pic). Removed the smog pump, removed the air conditioner, running a single belt on the balancer. So can I remove the outer two pullies? Will I need a different length crank bolt to reinstall a single pully? See pics of the current bolt has a thick spacer???

Hi All Thanks for the input all back together, not leaking thus far but only a couple of miles on the road. Yes, the transmission swap could be the causing the leak. Swap to a wide ratio 5 speed the pinion gear housing was slotted and turned 180 degrees. Meaning all images of a 4 speed pinon gear housing (hoses the gear and shaft) the hold down plate slot and 10MM bolt are top. The 5 speed slot and hold down plate and 10MM bolt are bottom. The seller of the trans took an angle grinder and created a slot on the other side of the housing and installed. Assume the housing came off a 4 speed trans and is not a 5 speed housing?