Blitzed

Hi Duffy, Congrats on the new born and home, life is good. Thank you for all the data on your thread, helped with my conversion tremendously. Agree ECU / ITB conversion on the L series has it's challenges as issues begin to pop up over every step. Don't want to highjack your thread but you we're instrumental in my conversion. Couple of pics attached. Building a sleeper but no hiding the roll bar. Running a CAN display in the clock position on the dash. She's running but as you mentioned doing load tuning. Question, tuning with all ign and fuel corrections turned off, attempting to tune through the RPM curve, then apply corrections. What was the switch you flipped off in the Nexus software to allow for cold start tuning? I'm in CA so average coolant temp cold is 60. Still dealing with electrical noise in the engine bay, messing with my contactless TPS. Any suggestions? What plugs are you running? Thanks again for detailing your build.

Thanks for the response and info. Moved the star ground from the chassis to the head and the issue with the hall effect signals gone. Haltech signal grounds are all connected to the main battery ground, correct the trigger and sync are shielded cables (2). Haltech suggested adding grounds to reduce the noise on the block. ITB's, coil and hall effect distributor are AUS based products. Straight forward install the hurdles have been ECU functions. All good now, starts, idles, all outputs on the CAN look good. Working through transient throttle tuning or additional vacuum sync on the ITB's, she's coughing (no backfire) though the ITB's when stabbing the pedal. Encouraged by your HP gains. I'll enjoy the stock L28 this year. Pull the engine end of year to stroke and head work (N42 head). Wanted to understand the ECU / EFI conversion before the rebuild and reinstall. Enjoy the drive.

VM set 20k omhs and neg battery post. All connections, chassis bolt (in pic) and on the firewall, alternator neg, block, started neg cable bolt all zeroed out. Since the engine will not start, The only dynamic test I can do is ignition on, fuel pump running. Same VM setting 20k Chassis bolt below the battery, 22, alternator neg bolt 24, block 20, star grounding connectors, 12. When I touch the signal ground wire for the distributor connector with the ignition on, bounces, 4-24 randomly. Is this common for a signal ground? One main ground wire from the ECU to the battery - (input) All signal ground wires for the components are ECU outputs and are tied in the main harness to pin 10 battery - input.

Hi All, No offense taken, the conversion to Haltech ECU and EFI was what is was intended, a learning experience. Was not and still not and expert but working my way through the curve to novice. Yes, main obstacle is the ECU is not recognizing the distributor pluses. It did and operated flawlessly, 6 months ago ran the ignition and timed with the SU carbs. I've added additional parts since them fuel pump and sensors. So something went sideways with the additional function. As mentioned all other parts work, pump runs, 02 sensor has readings, TPS sensor functions, intake air sensor reads, coolant temp reads, MAP reads, CAN gauge in the dash and all stock gauges all function. Question about the distributor, pic, parts and functions. I start a new thread here, you can see all the parts and diagrams "Haltech wiring ignition basic questions". Thanks I'll take some meter readings and report back.

Zed Head, The ECU wiring to the distributor is a shielded cable and the ECU can not handle multiple grounds points on these cables. One side or the other. Currently the ground connection for the main ECU ground is the battery which drives the signal grounds to the distributor and other sensors. All other sensor requiring a signal ground from the ECU function properly and static (non running engine) reads are recognized by the ECU.. Because the distributor requires movement to trigger data on the ECU, it's an issue. Believe it's a switch on bad ground (before start) issue as I've tested the distributor pulsing when I connect the distributor to the ECU connector and turn the key to the on position (ECU on) and rotate the distributor rotor, ECU is still not pick up the pulse signals, so a disconnect at power on. All wires in the connector ECU side have been metered as good. No fuses blowing, the ECU has two fuses integrated and two relays all good.

Zed Head, Alternator has been upgraded with MSA 60 amp with harness adapter. See pic of wiring, assume the ground wire from the stock harness is linked the chassis ground below the battery. I'm not seeing a ground wire to the engine block from the alternator. Not seeing any ground wires to the block other than the battery to starter.

Hi All, 240z Wiring harness , L28 two questions below on grounds. The EFI set-up is complete. Worked with Haltech remotely engine is running but chasing down a vacuum leak. Also having a weird issue with the electronic distributor connection to the ECU. Losing the grounds randomly. First questions: Need to add a grounding strap from the chassis to engine block. Why, attempting to move my star ground (all required ECU ground connections) to another point (currently chassis). Where is the best connection point? The engine bay harness is a stock 73 240Z. Is the chassis ground under the battery box off the harness a good point for a chassis to engine block strap? The FSM manual will not help with this issue, adding ground connections. Second question: Also running a single coil with igniter (no problems), all the stock 240z coil, distributor, resistor wires have been terminated and secured. Harness is still intact on left front fender. Is the green/white wire (ground) a usable ground wire in from the old harness for a chassis ground? Thanks,

Hi All, 240z Wiring harness , L28 The EFI set-up is complete. Worked with Haltech remotely engine is running but chasing down a vacuum leak. Also having a weird issue with the electronic distributor connection to the ECU. Losing the signal grounds randomly. Question. Need to add a grounding strap from the chassis to engine block. Why, attempting to move my star ground (all required ECU ground connections) to another point (currently chassis). Where is the best connection point? The engine bay harness is a stock 73 240Z. Is the chassis ground under the battery box off the harness a good point for a chassis to engine block strap? The FSM manual will not help with this issue, adding ground connections. Also running a single coil with igniter (no problems), all the stock 240z distributor coil, distributor, resistor wires have been terminated and secured. Harness is still intact on left front fender. Is there a usable ground wire in from the old harness for a chassis ground? Thanks,

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Hi All, Close to turning the key on the Haltech ECU / EFI conversion. I decided to move the inlet fuel filter to the engine bay. See pic. Felt it was easier to service. Duffy- I'm running a return fuel set-up with the fuel pressure regulator on the return line, are you running a fuel filter on the return side? Thank you,

Hi All, Getting close to turning the key with the new intake. Question about air temp sensor placement and fitment. Sensor Fitment - The air box is fiberglass see pic. Is there a source for plastic threaded sensor bungs that would glue into the box? Sensor placement - Where would be the ideal air temp sensor placement, inlet or rear of the box? 4" air inlet, Has anyone routed a flex hoses through the front body/radiator brace? It's getting tight up front. Send pics please. Thanks,

Hi All, All good info, thank for your input. Classic Tube sold me a single replacement line, understood there could be a bad line within the kit. . Dutchzcarguy great tip with phone / camera when visibility is impossible without removing the entire block. Cleaned up the internal cone and installed the new fitting/ line, leak gone :).

Classic Tube or Datsun Z (they buy the kit from CT). You have to buy the complete kit $300.0 + 6-8 weeks. If you need one or two need to make them yourself.

Thanks, will check and report back.

Hi All, Zed Head the fitting flare seeping would be below number four on the diagram. Is their a honing tool I could purchase? As mentioned, it's not the fitting flare threads that a seeping fluid is seeping from the hole running down the tube. So the tape will not work. Thank you.

Hi All, 73 240Z Hoping someone has a fix. Replaced all of my hard brake lines from Classic tube and have an issue with one line. The tube flare will not seat. The line is seeping brake (very little but frustrating) fluid from the hole in the fitting, threads on the fitting are dry. Removed and adjusted the line so there is zero tension on either ends of the brake line, finger tighten the fittings flush before final torque with a wrench. Did the 1/2" turn lose and and tighten over and over again, still seeping. The fluid seeps cold or after driven. Leaking from the front brake line from the master cylinder to the safety switch block below the master. Leaking line connection is the inverted fitting bottom of the safety switch. Merry Christmas and a Healthy 2022.

Thanks for the responses.

Z's represented at Auto Club Raceway this weekend. Couple of historical Z's race cars at the event.

Hi All, Thanks for the info and pic on venting.

Hi All, Hope all is well. Question on proper crankcase venting on a L28 NA . In the home stretch (positive thoughts) on the EFI /ITB conversion. Final issue to address is crankcase venting with the stock pcv valve removed from the manifold position. Is the stock config a open or close system? Would the stock hose and PCV valve to the manifold be considered a close system? as the PCV valve will open and close only under pressure changes. If pressure escapes to the valve cover and the vent hose is connected to the back of the air filter housing, wouldn't this be considered an open system? So is a duel catch can set-up required or will a single vented can work? Maybe over thinking this issue, this is a lower HP engine (NA) non boosted. Thanks for your help.