w3wilkes

I did take a shot of how my revised assembly of the choke lever parts. The bolt will replace the little brass bar, "micro" washer and "micro" screw.

Yesterday I drove my 240Z up to a car show and all was well. Didn't win anything, but I did meet some fun folks. When I went to leave I pulled the choke and could tell the lever was no longer attached to the cable. Today I opened up the console to find that a "micro" screw had come loose that then disconnected the lever from the choke cable. Once I got into it I couldn't see how I would put things back together! You'll notice in the attached image there's a BOLT that goes through a "Y" in the choke lever that has a sleeve around it and a little retainer to hold the loop in the cable so the cable can be both pulled to apply the choke and pushed to disengage the choke. That's not quite the way Datsun initially did this. Sorry I don't have a picture. The jest of it was there's a round brass bar that on one end is a smaller stud that goes through a hole on the far side of the lever in the image and then a washer and "micro" screw holds brass bar in place. There's no way to get to that screw without completely removing that plate you can see on the other side of the lever in the image. What I've done is a small engineering change that makes it like in the image. I found a small bolt that fits through the sleeve and retainer that holds the choke cable and then tapped the hole in the other side of the "Y" in the lever so that I could use a bolt to hold the sleeve and cable retainer in place. Don't know what Datsun was thinking with that original hokey design! I stole this picture from WoodworkerB and the red circle is just showing his broken choke cable.

I agree on "fix it". If your location of 95050 is Santa Clara, CA I believe your car's year still needs to pass emissions.

I did find a pdf of a '73 owners manual. Don't know if it will do though. http://240260280.com/Docs/Owners Manual/1973 240Z Owners Manual.pdf

I just did a quick search on Swiss requirements for importing a personal car from another country. One of the required bits of documentation is the owners manual... Who knew! http://www.helloswitzerland.ch/-/importing-a-car Read the section "How to proceed". I will say that it makes no sense to me why you have to have the owners manual. In the US when you trade a car in, many times the dealership will remove the owners manual and not pass it on to whoever the car is sold to, so it's common to not get an owners manual when buying a used car. Maybe if someone on these boards has a 72 240z and is in Switzerland they might lend a manual to get through the red tape??

From the OP post I don't know what year car we're talking about, but... My '71 is also a two key affair. The ignition key is toothed on both edges, but the door / hatch key is only toothed on one edge. the cut lines down the key sides appear to be very different. I can't see how the locks could be made to work with a single key for the whole car by a locksmith. My '73 was keyed to a single key of the type with the teeth on both edges. Not sure when Datsun changed to the single key for the whole car, but it was sometime between 12/70 when my '71 was built and sometime in the first half of '73.

Is there some type of gasket to seal the cover?

I would love a pair, but at that price point I'll have to stick with my current lenses at less than 10% of your stated price. Sorry, just can't afford $750.

I used the K&N pump from MSA. It's been working just fine for the last year. It's not as quiet as MSA makes it sound, but once the car is started I can't hear it. Here's the link to the pump; http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a09/11-3078

Sept 15th through Sept 17th. I would highly recommend this event. Car show and wine tasting on Saturday and racing in the streets of Snowmass on Sunday and Monday. I won't be able to go this year, but I went to the kick off of the event last year and had a blast. I also went to these races for the last 10 years that they were held in Steamboat CO up until 1999. Don't know if there will be any Z's, but the 240Z's through 1972 are age eligible to race in this event. https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/2018-aspen-snowmass-vintage-car-races-street-race-rocky-mountain-racing-rmvr-255613

Not to be too argumentative, but my own personal experience with my series 1 240z and this thread over in zcar.com using only C and B terminals leaving the I and W terminals disconnected on the E12-92 module gives the same results as using the E12-80 module. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html

I put this info in another thread, but since this is a Datsunzgarage question thread I'll put it here too... One correction that needs to be made to Datsunzgarage in the Engine section "Seventh - Ignition" it talks about if you do a 81 to 83 distributor you'll have to swap the E12-92 for an E12-80 module. This is NOT true. The E12-92 module works EXACTLY like the E12-80 module when you only use the "C" and "B" connections, just don't hook up anything else. I've been running an E12-92 module on my car for years with only the C and B connections and it works just like the E12-80.

One correction that needs to be made to Datsunzgarage in the Engine section "Seventh - Ignition" it talks about if you do a 81 to 83 distributor you'll have to swap the E12-92 for an E12-80 module. This is NOT true. The E12-92 module works EXACTLY like the E12-80 module when you only use the "C" and "B" connections, just don't hook up anything else. I've been running an E12-92 module on my car for years with only the C and B connections and it works just like the E12-80.

Would Datsunzgarage be here? http://datsunzgarage.us/

Here's 15x7 +4 offset with no rub. 205 60 R15's. Using this Discount tire calculator shows that the 205 60 R15's will have 2 more revolutions per mile from stock 195 70 R14. When the speedo shows 65MPH you would be going 64.8MPH or 99.6% of 65MPH. https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator

Another thing to check is the rear wheel cylinders. Mine were rusted to the point that they no longer worked. They can be had cheap enough; http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a09/24-5104 I'm guessing that the 78 2+2 uses the same wheel cylinders as the 2 seater coupe. I would also replace the brake fluid in the clutch and brakes and give them a full bleeding.

I wouldn't think you'd want the overflow reservoir sealed. If it were sealed it could interfere with the radiators vacuum as it cooled making it harder to suck the coolant from the reservoir back to the radiator.

It's not pressure in the overflow bottle that sends coolant back to the radiator. It's vacuum in the main radiator as it cools that sucks the coolant back to the radiator.

We don't really have 2x4's in the US either. Once the lumber is dried and planed they are more like 3.5" (88.9mm) x 1.5" (38.1mm), much closer to the size Jeff is used to.

I'm partial to the urethane air dam. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411

Welcome, these folks should be able to help you with just about anything you need to know. My 240 sat for 14 years. Completely cleaned and flushed the whole fuel side of things including ZTherapy rebuilt SU's and it started right up. Now runs better than it used to. I've always thought these cars have a really stout mechanical drive line.

I did leather in my early 1971 and would do it again. The other thing I did was change to 1977 seat frames. Along with springs instead of straps on the seat bottoms this added the ability to tilt the seat forward for access to the tool covers that are behind the seat on the early cars.

Did you also get new foam?

A work of art! Ya think this one will keep up with your first one? ?

This will also keep the speedometer registering the same as it was. Here's a tire size equivalent calculator; https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator